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Old 01-20-2018, 06:31 AM   #11
chuckster57
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John: the trick is get the pry bar between the frame and the coroplast. It’s already “smashed” by the washer. Use the same washer and a self tapping screw in the same nail hole and it looks “factory” except it’s a screw not a nail.
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Old 01-20-2018, 07:23 AM   #12
JRTJH
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Chuck, I'll try that again next time I run into nails holding the coroplast. Past experience, there isn't enough "shoulder" on the frame rail to approach it and pry it away placing the crowbar "sideways" on the frame (narrow part) and trying to go under the coroplast or under the nail diagonally or along the frame rail isn't possible because the edge of the coroplast gets in the way. Maybe I'm using a crowbar that's too large? I'll "finagle with it" next time. To me, it's just easier to slip a thin cutting wheel under the coroplast, cut the nail and the coroplast just falls away. That leaves a flat nail to hit with a center punch and it leaves a hole the self tapping screw will fit on reassembly.

I'll play around with it again next time. Thanks.
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Old 01-24-2018, 04:26 AM   #13
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Just as a side note, when purchasing self tapping screws try and find some that are a finer thread design as they will screw into the thicker steel better than the coarse threaded ones and won't be inclined to snap off while trying to thread themselves into the steel.

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Old 01-24-2018, 04:31 AM   #14
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Actually this is the one I'm referring to that we used a lot. Made by Buildex. #12/24 x 7/8"

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Old 01-24-2018, 04:34 AM   #15
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Either one would work but with the hex head theres less chance of rounding off than with the phillips head. The longer drill bit tip is best as are the finer threads.
And that concludes my sheet metal lesson for today! Lol!
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