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06-11-2023, 01:37 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Moundsville
Posts: 154
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Floor ducting collar/flange
The holes cut for the floor ductwork are about an inch too long. New registers won't sit in the openings snug. The metal collar/flange used are smaller than the openings as well, so the registers just sort of wiggle around and there are gaps. It's unsightly and it has discolored the linoleum around the register closest to the furnace. One HVAC guy suggested using foam weatherseal strips on the register to tighten up the fit, but I don't like how hot all the metal gets vs the foam seal strips.. Is there a website when I can get more of these collars/flanges made to fix this? I don't think any of the registers were marked or measured as all 4 are not correctly sized or straight.
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06-11-2023, 02:00 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,357
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I would use HVAC aluminum tape.
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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06-11-2023, 02:12 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,999
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I'm not sure which model trailer you have so no idea if you have a "foam sandwich floor" or a solid "sturdi-floor".
That said, I think I'd pull one side of the vent ducting up as far as it will go, push it to one side and cut a wooden block that will fit the open space and glue it in place. The type of glue will depend on the floor construction. Then, tape that block in place with aluminum ducting tape (just to keep it in place and not have any issues with paper masking tape, etc later on.
Once the block is secured in place, GENTLY push the aluminum ducting back in place and then press it tightly against the wooden block. That will help position the block against the floor structure and hold it in place until the glue cures.
Then, reinstall the vent cover and if it isn't satisfactory to you, start searching for a vent cover with a larger flange. There are many styles available and one of the best "compare to what you have stores" is either Lowe's or Home Depot.
ADDED: Don't pull to much on the aluminum duct while pulling it up and out of the way, if you detach it from the duct run, it may be a "challenge" to reattach it without pulling the coroplast out of the way or cutting a hole under the trailer. Depending on the trailer, on some models, even cutting the coroplast won't get you access to the heating duct runs, they are above the DARCO wrap and fiberglass insulation....
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John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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06-11-2023, 02:54 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Moundsville
Posts: 154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57
I would use HVAC aluminum tape.
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I have some of the aluminum tape, I was able to use it by folding it up and sandwiching it between the floor and the metal rectangle flange (I don't know the actual term for this thing) and got one of the registers to be snug and sit flush to the floor. The other one, the opening is 4 1/4x 10 7/8 🤣
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06-11-2023, 02:59 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Moundsville
Posts: 154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
I'm not sure which model trailer you have so no idea if you have a "foam sandwich floor" or a solid "sturdi-floor".
That said, I think I'd pull one side of the vent ducting up as far as it will go, push it to one side and cut a wooden block that will fit the open space and glue it in place. The type of glue will depend on the floor construction. Then, tape that block in place with aluminum ducting tape (just to keep it in place and not have any issues with paper masking tape, etc later on.
Once the block is secured in place, GENTLY push the aluminum ducting back in place and then press it tightly against the wooden block. That will help position the block against the floor structure and hold it in place until the glue cures.
Then, reinstall the vent cover and if it isn't satisfactory to you, start searching for a vent cover with a larger flange. There are many styles available and one of the best "compare to what you have stores" is either Lowe's or Home Depot.
ADDED: Don't pull to much on the aluminum duct while pulling it up and out of the way, if you detach it from the duct run, it may be a "challenge" to reattach it without pulling the coroplast out of the way or cutting a hole under the trailer. Depending on the trailer, on some models, even cutting the coroplast won't get you access to the heating duct runs, they are above the DARCO wrap and fiberglass insulation....
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Thanks for the info, we have a Hideout. The floor is just the linoleum on top of ply..then the flange (or whatever it's called) sandwiching the ducting, ply, and vinyl together. If I could make my own and it work I would in a minute, but I hate to have to buy a full sheet for such a small project. I will give the wood a go. Do you think it needs to be a certain type? I'll still need another of the metal collars/flange because this one actually only had 3 sides!
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06-12-2023, 06:30 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2023
Location: Kankakee
Posts: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomadicchefs
I have some of the aluminum tape, I was able to use it by folding it up and sandwiching it between the floor and the metal rectangle flange (I don't know the actual term for this thing) and got one of the registers to be snug and sit flush to the floor. The other one, the opening is 4 1/4x 10 7/8 [emoji1787]
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I suggest a piece of sheet metal bent and cut to fit.
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