Spongy floor

[Roadhazard]

I'm not sure if anyone else has this problem that I have with my Outback. I have a 2014 316RL Travel Trailer and my floor is now starting to get soft spots in higher traffic areas. I was wondering if Keystone has had a recall or service bulletin regarding this issue. Has anyone else have this problem? I cut one of the soft spots out and found that in addition to the 1/32nd inch thickness of the linoleum the underlayment was also about a 1/16th thick. I can understand these rv companies are trying to keep these rv's light but to use paper thin materials for a floor is just wrong. I'll deal with the extra weight any day.

[skids]

I would think that "firmness" is provided below the layer of linoleum not matter how thick it is.

[JRTJH]

Your Outback was built in the "heyday" of ultralight experimentation.

So was my 2014 Cougar XLite...

The "helium technology", XLite technology, Ultra-Lite technology and all the other "gimmick names" they stuck on shedding pounds for length are what produced our weak floors.

You can download the 2014 Outback brochure here: https://recreationalvehicles.info/20...k-brochure.pdf

On page 6 is a "cutaway diagram" of the construction features. In the description below the diagram Keystone states the floor is a "double layer luan decking with staggered seams, R-10 block foam insulation, bottom layer luan decking"... Most of the luan decking used in RV's is 1/8" thick. So your floor decking is probably 1/4" luan over 1.5" rigid block foam.

I believe, over about a 4 or 5 year time frame, Keystone found the floor was not as durable as their engineers anticipated and they went back to using 5/8" dura-span composite wood floor decking with fiberglass insulation under it. Was it a mistake? Who knows, seems all the manufacturers were in the same "race to reduce weight" and they all seem to have abandoned the "foam sandwich floor concept"....

You're right when you say, "...to use paper thin materials for a floor is just wrong." That said, if the manufacturers start installing a "heavy floor" and cut the weight somewhere else, what have we gained ??? Or what have we compromised in walls, roofing, windows, to gain a sturdy floor in the same length trailer???

It's my opinion (for what it's worth) that consumers drive the industry and as long as consumers don't care about durability over length, manufacturers are going to build them longer and lighter so consumers will keep buying them. Right now, the manufacturer that says "NOPE" to the consumers will be out of business in a year. The key, again, in my opinion, is that the consumer has to learn to face reality rather than keep buying 2.7L EcoBoost F150's to tow a 36' travel trailer..... Until consumers accept the limitations, manufacturers are going to give them what they'll buy, even if it is a "piece of floating crap"..... YMMV

[sourdough]

^^^^^ And there you have it!

[Roadhazard]

My questions is how difficult would it be to to remove the linoleum and luan decking and replace it with either plywood or composite wood decking such as I have in my house?

[Roadhazard]

Thanks for the reply.......and as a note....Cummins is the only way to go.

[Wyldfire]

Just remember the first thing attached to the frame was the floor deck then the linoleum. Walls cabinets, appliances were all put on over it.

[Roadhazard]

I figured that if I were to try to replace the floor I would just go up to the cabinets, just under the slide carpet and remove and replace the center island. Or I could win the lottery and go buy a new one.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Roadhazard

I figured that if I were to try to replace the floor I would just go up to the cabinets, just under the slide carpet and remove and replace the center island. Or I could win the lottery and go buy a new one.

Just remember that you have two opposing slides, both of which clear the floor "at the wear bar under the slide" by not much more than 1/2 inch and they ride on that wear bar. Adding a 3/8" layer on top of the existing floor or replacing the 1/4" double luan sheeting with a 1/2" plywood decking will raise the "coach floor" by enough to interfere with the slide operation.

So, take some careful measurements before "deconstructing the floor" to be sure you have the clearance under the slides to add any thickness.

Also, remember that any weight you add to the floor has to come off the payload for the trailer. Those "minimally capable" tires under the trailer are rated "just above the GVWR" so adding 200-300 pounds of "heavier floor" will also mean deducting that much "stuff for camping" from the mix.....

Take lots of photos and post the project as you go. It will help other members who have the same situation and might be considering a "do it yourself project"... Your experiences will give them ideas on what to avoid and what worked for you...

GOOD LUCK !!!!!

[Life-in-Him]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Just remember that you have two opposing slides, both of which clear the floor "at the wear bar under the slide" by not much more than 1/2 inch and they ride on that wear bar. Adding a 3/8" layer on top of the existing floor or replacing the 1/4" double luan sheeting with a 1/2" plywood decking will raise the "coach floor" by enough to interfere with the slide operation.

So, take some careful measurements before "deconstructing the floor" to be sure you have the clearance under the slides to add any thickness.

Also, remember that any weight you add to the floor has to come off the payload for the trailer. Those "minimally capable" tires under the trailer are rated "just above the GVWR" so adding 200-300 pounds of "heavier floor" will also mean deducting that much "stuff for camping" from the mix.....

Take lots of photos and post the project as you go. It will help other members who have the same situation and might be considering a "do it yourself project"... Your experiences will give them ideas on what to avoid and what worked for you...

GOOD LUCK !!!!!

Had this show up in our 2020 25sabwe cougar. It was in the bathroom, the highest traffic path.
After using a boroscope to see the base of the floor it looked like no water damage. Opened the area between stool & shower & no water damage.
so we cut a piece of SS 18" x 80" x 3/32" & slid it under the linoleum from beyond doors.
Flexing gone, floor is solid as a rock since we now span between 3 floor joist.
Wish we'd taken pix but sorry, we just wanted to make it solid.

[Mikendebbie]

I'm sure there may be dozens of youtube videos to find about rebuilding floors - but the AZ RV Expert has these videos...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxJdhh4sWr4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yE0fh-cGSec