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Old 10-22-2019, 06:35 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by sonofcy View Post
Not sure what you are talking about, the eternabond 'patch' is simply applied over the original eternabond.
I am not arguing that it is a bitch to remove, but where I have used it is not somewhere I can imagine needing to do any 'normal' maintenance. The joint between roof and front/rear caps (where most leaks happen) and down both sides. If I had to replace the roof material I would just cut it at the edges including the eternabond and after installing the new roof TPO lay down new eternabond overlapping the new TPO and the old eternabond. I am 100% sealed now and no twice a year roof maintenance other than a wash.
Go for it if that's what you want to do!

The OP asked; "Is there any reason I can't use Eternabond instead of Dicor for the areas that are going horizontal (where roof meets metal going down the front)? I replied; "The problem will be when you lay the eternabond OVER the roof material AND the molding - no going back then if you have to do anything with the roofing material, molding OR metal; they pretty much became one without some "tap 'dancin" and extra work". That's just plain fact.

The OP, in my mind, asked about using eternabond (4") to cover the transition (molding) strip between the metal front, transition molding and the roof material. That IS a place where normal maintenance takes place, and, in the event of a failure in the molding/transition strip it will be FAR more than cutting an X in the eternabond and slapping another patch over it.

The OP has no experience in this and needs/wants to know what the expected outcome is/would be in various scenarios. Dicor is the chosen product for his situation unless he knows the ramifications of using other "more permanent" methods.

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Old 10-23-2019, 06:35 AM   #22
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Thanks for all the replies. Didn’t think about screws at the front of the TT. I’ll go with the Dicor and be more vigilant about roof care.

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Old 10-23-2019, 03:43 PM   #23
fjr vfr
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Originally Posted by sonofcy View Post
I assume you mean caulk not chalk. My owners manual and warrantee docs state every 6 months and the dealer charges $300. If I do it and make a claim they will argue incorrect maintenance since it wasn't done by a dealer.

I assume you mean warranty and not warrantee.
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Old 10-24-2019, 01:53 AM   #24
Weekender 1
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Join Date: May 2018
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post

There is a reason that screws are used to install the molding on the trailer edges and corners. That molding may need to be removed to make repairs in other areas.

Yeah they haven't come up with a better solution as of yet as to how to hold things together and screws are cheap. Has nothing to do with reaccessing things.
Between reading thee forums and the things I see in the real world, the accessing is because Dicor and similar dont hold up well long or its porrly applied and you need to access what a leak damaged.

Funny how now some manufacturers are actually still using screws, but using Eternabond like tapes to seal them. My slide tops are this way and some new 2020 I've front and backs, basically anything that does have a curve to is using to tape to seal it.
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Old 10-24-2019, 10:00 AM   #25
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Yes the screws are easier and more economical for the factory to use. If Eternabond saved the mfg time and money they would use probably use it, I said probably because truth is none of use that I'm aware of work for Keystone or any other RV manufacturer in a position to know that information.
There are other reasons that future access to remove those screws may be a factor. Damage to the cap or sidewall, delamination of same due to window leaks, hatch leaks, air conditioner leaks, etc.
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Old 10-25-2019, 06:23 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Rick View Post
Is there any reason I can't use Eternabond instead of Dicor for the areas that are going horizontal (where roof meets metal going down the front)?
Eternabond - "Because EternaBond® is made using MicroSealant Technology®, depending on surrounding conditions, EternaBond® has an estimated life expectancy of 18-35 years if applied correctly."

On my last trailer I used Eternabond on all the seams and anywhere else that the factory had used Dicor. I used 6" and covered the end seams and 4" around everything else. I did not remove the AC and do under it. That trailer was 14 year old when we traded it in and never had any leaks.

I plan on doing our new trailer in the spring, do it once and never have to check and re-apply Dicor.



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