Cougar X-Lite RV 28RBS Power Problem

[mrflan]

Greetings ALL,*

I own a COUGAR X-LITE RV 28RBS 2012 model which I only use in the weekeneds.*

Everything regarding power was working well untill my son connected a small portable Air Condition to the power outlet which tripped the Generator's Fuse.*

We reset the fuse and dissconnected the portable Air Condition and the power came back on in the RV as normal.*

The following week the Power was normal as well.*

The next weekend we didn't start the generator since we didn't camp, we have only replaced the Heater's Element (suburban).*

3 weeks from the incident we tried to turn the power on with NO LUCK *

We have checked the generator with multimeter and it was OK regarding producing voltage.*

Inside the RV, ONLY wall sockets have electricity but nothing else works!*

We checked the circuit breakers and all were fine with 120 volts outs*

We have checked the Blade Fuses and replaced 40a & 15a fuses. BUT NO VOLTAGE OUT*

STILL NO LUCK*

Is there a MASTER SWITCH elese where from the circuit board?*

PLEASE HELP

[jsmith948]

The black 120V lead at the top/left is your main - it will be hot whenever your trailer is plugged in.
The white 12v wires are the ground.
You should see 12v if you test from the black lead connection block at the bottom/right across to the white connection connection block above it.
Is your battery charged? You should have 12v coming into the panel as long as your batt is good.
Do you hear any fan n oise from the converter in the bottom of your power panel?
Is your generator wired through a transfer switch?
You stated you have 120v so your generator or shore power must be good.
If you have a dead battery you would still get 12v from your converter when plugged in to shore power or your generator.
I would check the converter.

[mrflan]

Originally Posted by jsmith948

The black 120V lead at the top/left is your main - it will be hot whenever your trailer is plugged in.
The white 12v wires are the ground.
You should see 12v if you test from the black lead connection block at the bottom/right across to the white connection connection block above it.
Is your battery charged? You should have 12v coming into the panel as long as your batt is good.
Do you hear any fan n oise from the converter in the bottom of your power panel?
Is your generator wired through a transfer switch?
You stated you have 120v so your generator or shore power must be good.
If you have a dead battery you would still get 12v from your converter when plugged in to shore power or your generator.
I would check the converter.

Thank you for your reply

in the AC side, I get a reading in my multi meter

in the DC side NO reading what so ever

No noise coming from the converter (I didn't know it is in the bottom)

The battery is DEAD I'm assuming since it's been more than 6 weeks with NO charging.

The generator should produce 12v but I get no reading in the DC side.

I'm assuming the converter is fried ???

If the converter if burned how come I get 120v from the RV sockets (which are the only alive items in the whole RV) oh and the microwave is alive as well!!!

sorry for the newbies questions

[jsmith948]

The wall sockets and the Microwave are 120V, as is your a/c. The lights, the slides, the awning, the water heater control, the refrigerator control, the furnace fan and igniter/control circuit are 12V. You have to have a charged battery or a working converter to get 12V for these functions. If your battery was dead, but your converter was working you would still have 12V but it is always better to have a good, charged battery in the system. For example, the owners manual will warn you not to operate the slides or the landing gear without a charged battery connected.
If the battery was connected incorrectly (a common occurrence due to the unusual wire colors used in RVs) the 40 amp fuses may have blown. These fuses are there to protect the converter from this mishap. I am not sure if these are the 40 amp fuses in your picture or if they are located in the line upstream from the converter. Hopefully someone will jump in with this info or you can do a forum search. There have been several threads that talked about problems with converters and reversed battery leads.

[mrflan]

Originally Posted by jsmith948

The wall sockets and the Microwave are 120V, as is your a/c. The lights, the slides, the awning, the water heater control, the refrigerator control, the furnace fan and igniter/control circuit are 12V. You have to have a charged battery or a working converter to get 12V for these functions. If your battery was dead, but your converter was working you would still have 12V but it is always better to have a good, charged battery in the system. For example, the owners manual will warn you not to operate the slides or the landing gear without a charged battery connected.
If the battery was connected incorrectly (a common occurrence due to the unusual wire colors used in RVs) the 40 amp fuses may have blown. These fuses are there to protect the converter from this mishap. I am not sure if these are the 40 amp fuses in your picture or if they are located in the line upstream from the converter. Hopefully someone will jump in with this info or you can do a forum search. There have been several threads that talked about problems with converters and reversed battery leads.

Again, Thank you for replying and giving me more details how things work in my RV

The two 40a (orange) that are located above the converter were replaced but no sound coming from the converter which as I understood, if the battery is dead will keep my RV supply of 12V (while connected to a running generator).

That makes me believe that the converter is burned don't you think ?

coming to the wall sockets+microwave that have live 120v <<< Why would the Air Condition not work if its usig the 120v as well?

[JRTJH]

If the battery has a bad cell, the converter may be shutting itself down to protect it from overloading because of the battery. Disconnect the battery and see if you have 12 volts to your lights, etc. If you do, it's probably the battery, if you don't it's probably the converter.

[mrflan]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

If the battery has a bad cell, the converter may be shutting itself down to protect it from overloading because of the battery. Disconnect the battery and see if you have 12 volts to your lights, etc. If you do, it's probably the battery, if you don't it's probably the converter.

Thank you for the idea. I will try that in the weekend.*

Any idea why the Air Coondition is not working since it needs 120v ? *Is there a different circuit breaker for the A/C elese where?*

[JRTJH]

The thermostat needs 12 volts to operate. Unless you have 12 volts the Air Conditioner won't trigger to turn on. So, even though it is a 120VAC appliance, it is controlled by 12 volts through the thermostat.

[mrflan]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

The thermostat needs 12 volts to operate. Unless you have 12 volts the Air Conditioner won't trigger to turn on. So, even though it is a 120VAC appliance, it is controlled by 12 volts through the thermostat.

Simply, Brilliant *

I will give it a go next weekend and see what happens.*

Thank you for all the help, I shall keep you updated.

[RedOne]

Also check up by the battery. I think there is a disconnect or inline fuse up there too. I'll have to go out and check mine tomorrow to be sure.