Heater vents in master bedroom

[Rdowns]

In my Fuzion 371 over the past weekend I ran the heater for the first time and realized that the master bedroom only has one small round vent under the tv on the wall. This did not heat the room up enough compared to the rest of the coach which did outstanding! The bathroom next to the master has a larger floor vent and the living room has 2 larger floor vents. No matter what I did, leaving doors open, set a fan up to blow it around, nothing worked. Curious if anyone has come up with a solution to this? Maybe to balance the system out? But there are no adjustment controls on the vents. Any thoughts?

[Festus2]

Sometimes, the ductwork has been installed with kinks in the line, has become punctured, or the fittings are loose. In some cases, there is too much ductwork resulting in sags and "droops".

I'd check all the ductwork and make any repairs or alterations as necessary.

I removed the original vents and replaced them with adjustable ones so there is some adjustment in the flow of heat.

[hdrolling]

Our Raptor is the same way, but luckily with the doors open it stays warm in the master bedroom. Now the garage is another story, one vent behind the washing machine. We bought a Dyson heater/fan to use back there for the kids and it stay plenty warm.

[CaptnJohn]

In Cougar the bathroom vet is about 18" from the bedroom vent. With the door open between bath and bedroom it stays very warm. Open the bedroom door also and it gets too warm. We are comfortable with both doors closed but keep the bath open slightly as it often adds a little light.

Just the fireplace will keep the entire coach warm into the mid-40s but lower than that and the bedroom has a chill.

[Steve S]

Originally Posted by Festus2

I removed the original vents and replaced them with adjustable ones so there is some adjustment in the flow of heat.

I did the samething as it's about the best fix that can be done.
This is a pretty common complaint on the forum about the bedroom not getting enough heat. The main reason is that the heat has a very long ways to travel and the heat will go to the nearest vent.
Buy a few adjustable vents and you'll notice a big difference

[slow]

After checking my hoses and connections as others recommended, I added butterfly dampers to my system to balance the air flow. (The run to the furthest point which is our bedroom did NOT get a damper.) The aluminum elbows and dampers were purchased at Home Depot. Here is what the furnace area now looks like: http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/alb...pictureid=3637

[swanson]

When you're "squeezing down" the air flow with the dampers and/or adjustable vents please remember that the furnace still needs a certain amount of air flow or it wont function correctly.

[slow]

Originally Posted by swanson

When you're "squeezing down" the air flow with the dampers and/or adjustable vents please remember that the furnace still needs a certain amount of air flow or it wont function correctly.

Good point.

That is why I did not put a damper on the longest bedroom run and I also added a new run to the bathroom.

Another consideration when tempted to shorten the hose length because of the apparent excess length and odd routing, is that the hose is routed near the grey and/or black tanks to help keep them warm.

[gary31]

I have a Carbon 31 with 1 heat duct in the Master and one in the Bathroom.
The 2 ducts in the Galley living area drank out heat but they are the closest to the furnace. I too thought I had a crushed or twisted duct hose and sent my unit to the dealer for inspection. I do not think they even took down the under belly to look but I was told that the furnace just was not strong enough to force air to the these farthest outlets. What can you say to that!!! solution is ceramic heaters when I need addition heat in these areas. So far the heating and duct placement as well as the access to my Water pump have been my biggest dislike, everything else seems to function as designed.

[dave-g]

My cougar had a similar problem, I changed 2 floor registers in the living. room to ones with dampers on the back.

Takes about 30 seconds to swap out.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...mper-tan/49725

[BOWWOW]

My Fuzion had a crushed vent under the steps to the bedroom.
I removed the old steps and installed oak wood steps when I discovered this problem. I also installed a second vent and duct system in the pass thru cargo area that pumps heat into the very front of the bedroom and insulated it. Nobody ever sleeps in the garage so I blocked off that heat vent with some aluminum foil. Very warm after that and my furnace didn't seem to run as often.

[Htfiremedic]

Our FZ322 TE2, has the opposite issue. Too much heat in the master, good underbelly, fair in galley/den and the garage has the minimalist vent. I pulled the vent cover off of the wall near the furnace and found several loose fittings. Placed duct tape to seal. In kinked the duct to the garage(under the sink) and almost evened it out. The master still gets a bit more than I like, as it's below my CPAP and super heats the air into the machine. The underbelly stays toasty inside, and could probably be reduced a bit. We added a couple of extra heaters for DW and kids. They seem happier! Me, i would just as soon open the window beside me and let it cool off!


OldMedic

[ChrisM]

The bedroom heats well in my FZ 371. The vent in the bathroom puts out a lot of heat so leaving the slide door between bath and bedroom open and the other bath door closed provides more than enough heat for the bedroom even with the cold felt through the headboard. I do find it necessary to leave the bedroom door open to regulate the temp throughout the camper. I've been comfy through several nights of low teens.

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