Bulletproof pigtails?

[LHaven]

My gas WH was clicking unduly on startup, so I checked under the propane cowl to see if I was out. The system was operating properly on tank #2, but on tank #1, the pigtail had blown entirely off the ACME nut ferrule, losing the contents of the tank.

In 20 years with my old rig, I don't think I changed either of my pigtails. I've changed both of mine just this year (same failure). The hose walls aren't failing, the manufacturer's assembly joints are failing. These may or may not be the factory originals, since I did have my dealer do the regulator recall around two years ago, and I don't know what got replaced (free).

I've read so many pigtail postings. They all agree that the big "camping products" names' pigtails are crap. Some swear by Sturgis pigtails, others swear at them. Several people say the solution is to get them custom handmade for you, but around here the places that sell propane parts don't do handwork. I've seen the ones on Amazon with the impressive braided stainless surfaces, but braid doesn't hold gas, so how cheap is the hose inside it? One guy said he beat the issue by going back to the semirigid copper technology from '60s rigs, but I hesitate to go there.

I don't so much mind the work of replacing pigtails, but I do mind being out in the middle of nowhere and discovering I suddenly have half the propane I thought I had.

Does anybody have a source for bulletproof pigtails? (There have to be some, I got 20 years out of my last set.)

[firestation12]

Originally Posted by LHaven

My gas WH was clicking unduly on startup, so I checked under the propane cowl to see if I was out. The system was operating properly on tank #2, but on tank #1, the pigtail had blown entirely off the ACME nut ferrule, losing the contents of the tank.

In 20 years with my old rig, I don't think I changed either of my pigtails. I've changed both of mine just this year (same failure). The hose walls aren't failing, the manufacturer's assembly joints are failing. These may or may not be the factory originals, since I did have my dealer do the regulator recall around two years ago, and I don't know what got replaced (free).

I've read so many pigtail postings. They all agree that the big "camping products" names' pigtails are crap. Some swear by Sturgis pigtails, others swear at them. Several people say the solution is to get them custom handmade for you, but around here the places that sell propane parts don't do handwork. I've seen the ones on Amazon with the impressive braided stainless surfaces, but braid doesn't hold gas, so how cheap is the hose inside it? One guy said he beat the issue by going back to the semirigid copper technology from '60s rigs, but I hesitate to go there.

I don't so much mind the work of replacing pigtails, but I do mind being out in the middle of nowhere and discovering I suddenly have half the propane I thought I had.

Does anybody have a source for bulletproof pigtails? (There have to be some, I got 20 years out of my last set.)

Were your hoses fitted with inverted flare fittings (newer style) or the older standard flare fittings? Not sure why the change from flare to inverted flare. I’ll be interested in your findings.
Best Regards

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by firestation12

Were your hoses fitted with inverted flare fittings (newer style) or the older standard flare fittings? Not sure why the change from flare to inverted flare. I’ll be interested in your findings.
Best Regards

“Old” style was npt threads, “new” style are flare. I’m not aware of a change from flare to inverted flare.

[firestation12]

Thx Chuck, you are correct,

[LHaven]

Not only do I not know the difference, but that has never been the end of the pigtail that failed anyway. It's always the bottle end.

[chuckster57]

I’m not sure you can get the old threaded style anymore. If you look at the regulator and it has a brass fitting screwed into it and then the pigtail end screwed into that, that’s the new style.

NO sealant on the threads of the pig tail flare fitting, the flared ends seal it.

[LHaven]

I'm not sure how this got into the weeds.
I'm not having a problem with flares.
I'm looking for sourcing recommendations to obtain a sturdy, reliable, entire pigtail unit.
Thanks.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by LHaven

I'm not sure how this got into the weeds.
I'm not having a problem with flares.
I'm looking for sourcing recommendations to obtain a sturdy, reliable, entire pigtail unit.
Thanks.

I don't know about bulletproof anything these days! I've replaced pigtails twice. Once the dealership found a leak on a trailer still under warranty and replaced them. They used whatever the dealer carried and I didn't have any issue for the next 5 years I owned that trailer. I also replaced pigtails on another trailer and used Flame King. Don't know if they're bulletproof but they never gave me any issue. As far as having the local LP dealer make them I think that's going to be like RV dealerships; I suspect there are good ones and bad ones. I've made contact with some good, competent folks in a propane dealership and some not so good. In the latter case I would worry about anything they made up for me.

[LHaven]

Aaaargh! This propane system is driving me bananas.

Went out to take off the bottle that leaked empty so I could refill it. Noticed the other bottle was reading empty. (Yes, the regulator lever was turned toward that bottle.)

Disconnected the ACME, heard hissing at the pigtail's nozzle probe. The only source for that gas would be what is in the rig piping. I didn't think the regulator was supposed to allow flow in that direction. I know the better pigtails don't.

Lifted the second bottle, and it is barely used. So now the regulator is lying.

Experimenting, I reattached the full bottle and watched the regulator as I turned it on. It rotated from red into green... then kept going until it had rotated FURTHER into red once more! What the blazes?!

I also heard (and smelled) a slight hissing in the vicinity of the regulator itself. The top of the regulator appears to be polluted with propane oil (photo).

I shut off the bottle, disconnected everything, and gave up, disgusted. The regulator was replaced March of last year as part of the general recall, so out of warranty. It's a Fairview gr9984xf. Apparently, as big a piece of junk as the pigtails are.

I can't believe there isn't a "premium" vendor for reliable propane equipment, like Dinosaur is for fridge and WH boards -- buy it, get peace of mind.

Since I have to replace the regulator now anyway, I'm going to look at the ones with the indicator gauges on top (unless someone tells me they're even worse junk). It's really silly to have to remove the tank cowl just to read the gauge when the cowl has a perfectly good hatch door on top.

[sourdough]

Marshall Excelsior MEGR 253H. I've had nothing but trouble with Fairview regulators. Get the 253 with the H for a higher output in the event you connect something that needs it.

[LHaven]

Thanks for the recommendation. I already ordered a Cavagna (gauge visible topside) and two Sturgis pigtails so I'll have this thing together for October school vacation week. If I can run a furnace, a water heater, and a fridge, I'm golden. DW barely uses the range, and we've never used our oven or grill.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Marshall Excelsior MEGR 253H. I've had nothing but trouble with Fairview regulators. Get the 253 with the H for a higher output in the event you connect something that needs it.

What he said!!!

[LHaven]

What's better on the main feed connection -- yellow tape or Gasoila?

[firestation12]

Originally Posted by LHaven

What's better on the main feed connection -- yellow tape or Gasoila?

I’d go with the tape for the higher pressure connection.

[LHaven]

Did the replacement today (details here). Everything works fine except my water heater, which I temporarily disconnected to blow the oil out of the line.