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Old 06-23-2018, 11:39 AM   #21
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Sudbury
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Originally Posted by DVPete View Post
I did something similar to what you are doing. The breaker for the converter also powered the non-GFCI plug ins. I pulled the breaker out of the electrical box (they are in pairs) and took it down to my local big box hardware store's electrical section and bought another pair of breakers, as I recall I bought a 15a/15a breaker. My electrical box had a empty spot to put the new breaker in. I split the 2 wires coming off the original breaker (1 for converter and 1 for plug ins) and connected plug ins to the new breaker and left the converter on the original breaker. I did all this with the RV not plugged in and battery disconnected because electricity hurts.

Prior to plugging the RV into my inverter, I put my fridge in "manual" so it does not automatically shift to AC because I don't want it to run on my batteries via the inverter. Additionally, I installed a switch in my little fridge in the outdoor kitchen so I can turn it off instead of unplugging it otherwise it would be running off the battery as well.
Iíll look into this; I do have empty spots on the panel

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Old 06-23-2018, 11:48 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
WFCO converters are standard equipment on most Keystone RV's. There are a few trailers that come with a different brand converter, but essentially all of them are "wired the same" as WFCO.

There are two types of wiring options. One has a plug on the end of the 120VAC power input, the other has no plug. Those with plugs simply plug into an outlet adjacent to the power center and those that don't have plugs are simply wired to a circuit breaker in the power center.

It "could be" as simply as wiring an outlet adjacent to the power center with a switched plug. Plug in the converter and when you want it on, turn on the switch, when you want it off, turn off the switch. In the event that your converter doesn't have a plug, simply replace the plug with a "junction box" and wire the converter to the switched power leads (in the junction box, for safety reasons). You could, if you want, use an illuminated switch, so that you know when the converter is powered on or off. It's as simple as that. No need to flip circuit breakers, no need to determine what else is on that same breaker and no need to make it more complicated than it needs to be.

As for the refrigerator, when on "inverter power" switch the refrigerator to LP operation and all the power it will use is some 12 VDC power to operate the control board/interior lights and fans.

When on shore power, turn the converter power switch to ON and switch the refrigerator to AUTO.
I definitely have the first one, no plugin, the fridge is a full size in my rv so unfortunately no LP option, backup generator will help me if I get more then 2 cloudy days in a row.

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Old 06-28-2018, 10:17 AM   #23
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Location: Reno
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You will need to remove the converter wires from the breaker and add an additional breaker just for it. Very easy to do.
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Old 06-28-2018, 08:07 PM   #24
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Yep, post #16 and #23 are the ticket to being able to turn the converter off while you have entire trailer running off inverter...easy-peasy

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Old 07-04-2018, 04:07 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Firecat117 View Post
I currently have a keystone hideout 38 FKDS and I am looking for a way to shutoff/bypass my trailers converter/charger.
I am off the grid and Iím finding this model difficult with solar. I want to be able to use all my plugins, when I plug my trailer direct to my solar inverter Iím stuck having the trailers built in one kick on and eat up my batteries as itís trying to charge the front one.

I have 2 265w panels, 60 amp charge controller, 6 Trojan T-105 batteries (12volt system) and 2000 pure sine wave inverter.

Currently I have the 110 trailer plug disconnected and am only running lights on my solar batteries, aside from running extension cables and power bars which isnít ideal for me how can I set it up so I have every plug in on my solar system and and have the trailers inverter disabled without loosing any features.
Your post is confusing to me. As I read it sounds like you have a solar array and the battery bank for it is connected to the trailers battery? If this is true, then the trailer's converter is attempting to charge ALL the batteries as they would all be in the circuit. This would account for the high 12 v draw. If this is the case I would suggest using only the campers 30 amp plug and leave the converter alone and disconnect the camper battery from the solar battery bank or leave it as is and disconnect the converter. Bear in mind if you leave the solar system's batteries connected to the trailer's battery the solar charger will be charging it as well.

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