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06-10-2018, 01:25 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: edmonton
Posts: 7
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Dometic Fridge stops
Hi all!
I have a 2011 Passport 2590. I’ve had nothing but issues with the Dometic refrigerator the last few years. It always operates fine in propane mode but in electric mode it always seems to stop running properly after a day or 2. I know it’s operating properly because it “cycles”, it runs, then stops, then runs then stops. However every time after a day or 2 I will hear it just continually make a buzzing sound and it doesn’t stop. This is when I know it’s stopped running properly and I usually just switch it to propane mode.
Does anyone know what may be happening?
Thanks!
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06-10-2018, 01:29 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,348
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Welcome to the forum
What do you mean by “cycles”? The only real difference between LP and AC is the heat source. Any idea where the buzzing is coming from?
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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06-10-2018, 01:35 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: edmonton
Posts: 7
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Hi
Sorry for not being more clear. By “cycling” I just mean that I can hear it run for a minute, then stop for a couple minutes, then run for a minute, then stop for a few. This is how it’s operated since I’ve owned the RV. But after a day or sometimes two if I’m lucky it stops this cycling and just makes a constant whirring or buzzing sound. This is when the refrigeration stops working. I just don’t understand what may be happening. I can run it in LP but I’d rather not
Thanks!
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06-10-2018, 01:52 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,348
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Ok, I’m confused. In a Dometic 2 door refer, there isn’t anything that “runs”. The only thing that “cycles” is either the flame on LP or the Heating element on AC.
Take the lower access panel off outside. Turn the refer on AC and then listen. There is a control panel, under a black cover on the left lower side. If that’s where the “buzz” is coming from it needs to be replaced. If not then we need to figure out exactly “where” the buzz is coming from.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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06-10-2018, 03:04 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: edmonton
Posts: 7
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Ok thank you! I will check it out and see. The fridge does make a slight humming noise though when it’s running properly. It will hum for about a minute, then stop for a couple, it’s always done this since I’ve had so I figured this was normal. It stays nice and cold when it runs this way.
Thanks again!
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06-10-2018, 03:08 PM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,348
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I can’t say any Dometic 2door refer that I have owned or worked on “hums” when it is operating.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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06-10-2018, 03:31 PM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,996
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The only "hum" I can think you might be hearing is a ventilation fan behind the refrigerator. Is your refrigerator installed in a slide? If so, there are one or two "computer disc fans" mounted just under the top part of the rear section of the refrigerator. They are powered by 12 VDC and there is a thermostatic switch in the power circuit. You may (only a guess) be hearing those fans turning off and on ????
As chuckster said, there is no compressor, no internal fan and no component in the refrigerator that "hums".... So, if it's not an "accessory cooling fan" then it's not from the refrigerator.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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06-17-2018, 12:36 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Lone Tree
Posts: 1
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What was the outcome of this thread as I have the same issue with my fridge....RM2862. Last year I replaced the cooling unit because it was leaking and not cooling. Now it doesn't cool on AC but will work on LP. I replaced the AC heating element with no fix. Considered the lower board and eyebrow board, but hate to throw parts at it and in up getting a new fridge. We are part-time and the wife is ready for a new fridge, but I'd really like to fix it. Did anyone find a solution? Thanks!
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06-17-2018, 12:48 PM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,348
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There are 2 separate fuses on the board, one for DC and one for AC. Have you checked for amp draw to the AC heating element?
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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06-17-2018, 01:33 PM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,996
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As Chuckster said, there are two fuses on the control board at the lower left corner of the rear of your refrigerator. Remove the black cover and you'll find something that looks like this photo. Check those two fuses, one of them is probably your issue.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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06-17-2018, 02:22 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
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On my last 5er with the Dometic fridge once the 12 volts fans kicked in it sounded like the fridge was "cycling" on/off, took quite some to figure out the noise. What's odd is once I knew what it was I never noticed it anymore.
__________________
Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
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06-17-2018, 02:55 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: edmonton
Posts: 7
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Mine always seems to work great on LP but on electric it’s really hit or miss. At times I’ve just hit the reset on the GFC in the bathroom and that seems to work but other times not. It’s very stressful every time I take the trailer out whether the fridge is gonna operate properly or not. When it’s operating properly it really does make an on again off again kind of “whirring” sound though. That’s how I know it’s working and staying cold.
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06-17-2018, 06:04 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Simpsonville
Posts: 22
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Schultzify,
I had a fridge with the same conditions as yours, about the same age as well. It turned out to be the board. As stated, check the fuses and heating element to be sure.
Take the old board with you to be sure you get the correct replacement.
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06-18-2018, 12:09 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: edmonton
Posts: 7
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Thanks all! I don’t have the skills to mess around with it myself. I’m taking it out for a few days this weeks and if it continues to be finicky I’m just going to take it in for servicing and have it fixed properly
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06-19-2018, 04:18 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: edmonton
Posts: 7
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Well I’m out now and have turned it on and it’s humming away as it cools down. I think once it reaches its ideal temp that’s when it goes into a cycle of on again off again. I’m hoping for the best this time!
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