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Old 01-18-2024, 06:17 PM   #61
LHaven
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It's not just "cheap" wiring. It's any "green" wiring, some of it pretty high-end. I've had two dash harnesses destroyed in my F-250, and a full 6" length eaten (disappeared) out of the middle of one of the spark plug wires!
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Old 01-18-2024, 08:25 PM   #62
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Thank you everyone who has taken the time to provide information to me. It will likely be Saturday before I can get back to troubleshooting the furnace but I’ll be sure to report with my findings.
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Old 01-20-2024, 03:16 PM   #63
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Ok… so.. got to troubleshooting today and found that the gateway in the air conditioning unit provides the power for the sail switch/limit switch circuit. That terminal is not always putting out 12v when it should. It would do it for a second, then drop off. If I were to push one way or another on that connector and hold pressure I would get ignition. If I let go it goes away. I tried to do some soldering but that didn’t remedy the issue so I’ve temporarily strapped a zip tie around the connector to hold it tight. The ignition circuit works every time now.
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Old 01-20-2024, 04:04 PM   #64
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Ah, so "optional output to furnace" really means "output to furnace if I feel like it."
So a new gateway box should solve your issue permanently.
(I assume you tried squinching the female connector already.)
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Old 01-20-2024, 04:08 PM   #65
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Apparently so! And yeah, tried a new connector and some squinching. No luck! You really have to press firmly either one way or the other for the connection to be made. Guess it’s internal to where the male connector passes through the board.
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Old 01-21-2024, 08:15 AM   #66
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Tried everything on mine, got a new board for it finally

Mine was working off and on also. Drove into freezing weather during Christmas in SC. Luckily had power and used a space heater. I have a 2013 Keystone Passport GT BH2650 that we have pretty much bought everything you can think of to make it newer. Tore my heater unit out from under the fridge over and over (since they graciously couldn't add the access door on the outside) until finally I gave in and put a new board in it. Tried everything else first, including a new sail switch, argh. Cleaned it, talked to it, yelled at it. Hooked up a propane tank to it in the garage, also. Works like it supposed to, for now. Atwood/Dometic unit, 20,000 btu. Old but dependable once again, for now.
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Old 01-21-2024, 08:28 AM   #67
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Mine was working off and on also. Drove into freezing weather during Christmas in SC. Luckily had power and used a space heater. I have a 2013 Keystone Passport GT BH2650 that we have pretty much bought everything you can think of to make it newer. Tore my heater unit out from under the fridge over and over (since they graciously couldn't add the access door on the outside) until finally I gave in and put a new board in it. Tried everything else first, including a new sail switch, argh. Cleaned it, talked to it, yelled at it. Hooked up a propane tank to it in the garage, also. Works like it supposed to, for now. Atwood/Dometic unit, 20,000 btu. Old but dependable once again, for now.
Welcome to the forum

Your furnace is an Atwood/Dometic. The Suburban has the access panel on the exterior, different brands. Glad you got your working, I have had to remove both brands for service.
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Old 01-21-2024, 08:37 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by Mark28RYR View Post
Ok… so.. got to troubleshooting today and found that the gateway in the air conditioning unit provides the power for the sail switch/limit switch circuit. That terminal is not always putting out 12v when it should. It would do it for a second, then drop off. If I were to push one way or another on that connector and hold pressure I would get ignition. If I let go it goes away. I tried to do some soldering but that didn’t remedy the issue so I’ve temporarily strapped a zip tie around the connector to hold it tight. The ignition circuit works every time now.
Yup I explained this several posts back,. Zone 1 AC Control board and gateway send signal to furnace control board via 2 blue wire connections on the AC Control board.

If 12 vdc is not CONSTANT to both gateway and AC control box you have an issue.. If the issue is cold solder joints on the board you can fix this is you have the skill sets..

If you have a broken trace on the board that too could be fixed..

BUT FOR MOST the best choice of action is identify the PN of the board and order the exact same as replacement

** Again .. 12 VDC is present ALL THE TIME up to the roof AC control boards and gateways even with both AC units and furnace turned off
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Old 01-21-2024, 09:00 AM   #69
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Dometic has a sailboard switch recall, fixed my problem
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Old 01-21-2024, 09:58 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by Mark28RYR View Post
Hello! I have a 2020 Keystone Cougar. Having issues with the furnace intermittently working and then not working. Blower will start, then no ignition and it will cut off after about 20 seconds or so. It appears that the sail switch isn’t always receiving power (checked this with a meter). The furnace is controlled by the In-Command display. Would anyone be familiar where the wire that provides power to the sail switch goes to? I believe it is one of the two blue thermostat wires. One (think it is negative) is capped off. The positive is what connects to the sail switch. I’ve swapped sail switches a couple times and even though I’ve had issues with the Amazon ones the original still operates correctly when tested with a multimeter. Thoughts? Thank you.
This may have already been suggested, but I must ask. Have you checked the igniter, to make sure that it is sparking every time?
I know that unit is not that old, you only bought it in 2020, right?
However, contaminants in the propane can affect the contacts on the igniter. It will become intermittent, before it fails all together. Cleaning it is a bother. It becomes very brittle after getting hot so many times. Best to just replace it.
As those components are not very expensive, and the glass fiber gaskets protect you from monoxide, it's best to buy both the igniter in the gaskets. It will also help you to check the burner bar, and make sure that it is clean.
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Old 01-21-2024, 10:00 AM   #71
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Very glad you found the solution!
Hope that patch holds until you can actually solder or fix it permanently.
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Old 01-21-2024, 10:10 AM   #72
Shannon21cougar290rls
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Furnace

Assuming the rv furnace is the same as a residential furnace .
The first thing that comes on is the induction fan which is the exhaust fan or flu. It comes on first to make sure the air flows through unrestricted. After it comes on then it’s all good to fire the flame. The flame will burn in the heat exchanger until temp , then the blower will start and send air to the vents. If all that happens and then the furnace shuts off , I would look at the limit switch . If it doesn’t make it to that point I would check the board
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Old 01-21-2024, 02:35 PM   #73
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I had the same problem with my furnace not working regularly. I have a 2019 RBS and my furnace would ignite and run for only a few seconds and than shut off and blower fan continue to blow. It would attempt to ignite several times before ultimately shutting down, the experts at the RV dealers told me that it was a gateway problem, and I replaced the gateway box twice. Getting no help from Keystone or Dometic/Incommand, I hardwired an old school thermostat on my wall by my kitchen sink. I eliminated the gateway and InCommand for my furnace function. I made this change back in 2020 and I have not had a problem in over three years. The furnace runs every time with no issues , I don’t know if this is your problem but I thought I would share.
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Old 01-22-2024, 05:42 AM   #74
Tim Wiening
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Change the switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark28RYR View Post
Hello! I have a 2020 Keystone Cougar. Having issues with the furnace intermittently working and then not working. Blower will start, then no ignition and it will cut off after about 20 seconds or so. It appears that the sail switch isn’t always receiving power (checked this with a meter). The furnace is controlled by the In-Command display. Would anyone be familiar where the wire that provides power to the sail switch goes to? I believe it is one of the two blue thermostat wires. One (think it is negative) is capped off. The positive is what connects to the sail switch. I’ve swapped sail switches a couple times and even though I’ve had issues with the Amazon ones the original still operates correctly when tested with a multimeter. Thoughts? Thank you.
I had the same issue on my 2019 Keystone Bullet. After going thru a lot of checking I changed the sail switch. Bingo problem solved. Be sure you order the newer model switch. Apperantly there were some bad ones when these were built.
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