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Old 07-21-2015, 09:07 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slow View Post
GrumpG has posted pictures in another thread: http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sho...t=slide+topper
Thank you for the link! It is helpful. I just need to see how close the top of my slide is to the drip rail that is already in place. That is the part that makes me nervous, as I recall the flange for the slide goes up pretty high to the roof, and I'm unsure of how much space I have there.
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Old 07-21-2015, 09:14 AM   #22
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I downloaded the installation instructions and it had all the measurements , my flange is real close to the drip rail ,but I have enough room to install one
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Old 07-28-2015, 06:34 PM   #23
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my slide topper came in today, now time to install it
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Old 07-29-2015, 05:02 AM   #24
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I looked and I am sure I have enough space. After my TV install in the bedroom though, I am a bit nervous there might not be anything behind the outer wall for the screws to bite into.
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Old 08-10-2015, 05:36 PM   #25
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I installed my slide topper last week , it took about 1 hour and 15 min
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Old 08-10-2015, 07:17 PM   #26
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Looks good, I really want to add them to our yet to be delivered Cougar 5th. The dealer will have it almost 2 weeks before my arrival perfect time to add them in my mind. They want $1700 for 4 slides installed... So tempted.
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Old 08-10-2015, 07:39 PM   #27
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That's a good price IMO.
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Old 08-10-2015, 08:56 PM   #28
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the topper was $229 , the brackets was $50 and $11 for the rivets
the rivets I used are molly rivets and the have a rubber gasket under the head and the shanks seal the shank hole , making them look like a buck rivet
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:31 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
That's a good price IMO.
I thought so but with the pickup of the unit scheduled for 3 weeks from now and financing not figured out yet we may be writing a check for this one and the extra $$ would hurt a bit more...
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Old 08-26-2015, 02:25 PM   #30
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Hi SUnderwood,

Nice job installing the topper! I have a Passport 2400 and had the dealer install mine, but the dealer did a crappy job IMO. The front bracket is not installed straight, and the awning rail could have been higher, to allow more pitch on the topper (so that water runs off).

A question for you - did you install the awning rail flush with the existing gutter, or do you have a gap (vertically - as in you can see the side of the trailer) between the existing gutter and awning rail?

Thanks!

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Old 08-26-2015, 04:10 PM   #31
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I mounted the awning rail with the rivet holes under the slot so I could get more angle to the fabric and the awning rail is touching the bottom side of the drip rail
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Old 08-26-2015, 04:23 PM   #32
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Thanks - that's what I thought from your pics. Mine isn't touching the drip rail, it's around 3/4" below it. I wanted to remove the awning rail and re-locate it, but afraid of leaving ugly holes in the siding of the trailer... guess I will need to live with it. Next time i'll do the job myself - don't trust dealers anymore!
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Old 08-26-2015, 04:28 PM   #33
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with the rivets mounted to the bottom , they are covered by the fabric, if you flip your awning rail the holes should be covered by the rail,
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Old 08-26-2015, 04:36 PM   #34
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Aha! Awesome pics, thank you! I took another look and I should be able to flip the rail over, great! Thanks so much.
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Old 08-26-2015, 05:36 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUnderwood View Post
I mounted the awning rail with the rivet holes under the slot so I could get more angle to the fabric and the awning rail is touching the bottom side of the drip rail
The reason the awning rail isn't "typically" mounted with the attachment holes on bottom is because that position allows water to pool in the top part of the awning. If that water freezes and thaws it can push the awning rail away from the side of the trailer and cause leakage. When mounted with the attachment holes above the awning slot, water won't (can't) pool against the side of the camper. Take care to monitor your awning rail carefully to be sure it doesn't start leaking.

It looks like you used a clear sealant between the awning rail and the camper side? If you don't mind, what type of sealant did you use?
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Old 09-01-2015, 03:18 PM   #36
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The sealant I used is a silicone based adhesive / sealant , the channel on my awning rail is 90 degrees to the back mounting side so holes up or holes down it is still 90 degrees to the side of the TT, the drip rail extends out past the awning rail ,
when I called Dometic they said it did not matter which way I mounted the awning rail, so I figured they might know something I didn't
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Old 09-01-2015, 03:42 PM   #37
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Attached is a picture of the profile of the typical awning rail extrusion. If you install it as it is shown, any water running down the side of the trailer will meet a "smooth surface" and be shed off the extrusion onto the slide cover. If you install it "upside down" (as you have done) any water that runs down the side of the trailer will "pool" in the cavity at the round curve in the extrusion that is formed when it rests against the trailer fiberglass siding. That water, if it freezes and thaws during the winter will force the extrusion to separate from the fiberglass siding and will create a void filled only by the caulking.

Once the caulking becomes brittle, water that pools in that cavity will then be able to seep behind the extrusion and enter the fiberglass siding at the screw holes/rivet holes. Once that happens, water damage to the fiberglass siding is going to occur.

Could it be that the "Dometic expert" you talked to has never actually installed awning rails on fiberglass trailers and is simply "reading from a script of FAQ's" ???
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Old 09-01-2015, 06:37 PM   #38
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I understand your concern about the awning rail , however mine was not made like the one in your post, apparently mine can be mounted either way as the slot is 90 degrees to the mounting flange
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