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Old 10-07-2018, 05:32 AM   #21
flybouy
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I installed this one about 16 months ago. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just drilled the lid of the battery box with a hole saw and sealed with black RTV silicone. A short battery cable, connected ground to switch. All in for under $30. YMMV
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Old 10-07-2018, 06:30 AM   #22
fourfourto
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I have been using a harbor freight one in my 442 and rv for 10 years works great.
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Old 10-07-2018, 06:47 AM   #23
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I also use a HF battery cutoff switch, mounted on the negative cable and have used it on two trailers (moved it from the Springdale to the Cougar). It is installed in a non metallic switch box and has worked well for at least the past 8 years. Here's a photo of it in the Springdale (with 12 VDC batteries). The current installation is with 6 VDC batteries in the Cougar.
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Old 10-11-2018, 08:05 AM   #24
Bnrc73
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What's wrong with a blade switch on the positive side of the battery to completely cut power to the whole unit. That's what I have. 5er can sit for a couple months without significant power loss to the battery.
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Old 10-11-2018, 09:59 AM   #25
OregonDuck
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Originally Posted by Bnrc73 View Post
What's wrong with a blade switch on the positive side of the battery to completely cut power to the whole unit. That's what I have. 5er can sit for a couple months without significant power loss to the battery.
Not an electrician, but I believe connecting the disconnect to the neg terminal is a safety measure. If you have the disconnect on the positive, and you touch it to anything on the trailer (which would still be grounded to the battery) you could complete the circuit resulting in a dangerous situation (i.e. if you were wearing a watch, which touched the disconnect and trailer, you just put yourself inline of the circuit). Same reason they always say to disconnect the negative terminal to any car battery first. All this said, if the disconnect is well shielded, etc there would obviously be less chance of a connection occurring.
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:37 AM   #26
Local150
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That’s gonna be a lot of current across that battery disconnect switch. The slides and LG draw the most current when operating. I’d leave them wired as is if it were me. Possible can of worms down the road if rewired
Mine is a switch that is rated for 12 or 24 volts and good for 500 amps. Pretty sure I am safe
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Old 10-11-2018, 01:52 PM   #27
Bnrc73
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Thanks Duck. That makes sense. I'm switching mine to the negative side tomorrow.. ten minute job.
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Old 10-11-2018, 02:57 PM   #28
Local150
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My 5ver is in a heated bldg. for winter , put a marine type switch in thought it was 300 amp but it's a 500 put it on negative side,, storing in side, I wanted every thing to disconnect,, no chance of anything malfunctioning and starting a fire and also running battery down, my old 5ver had a cheaper knife type disconnect, but didn't like the exposure of it all
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Old 10-11-2018, 03:36 PM   #29
flybouy
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My 5ver is in a heated bldg. for winter , put a marine type switch in thought it was 300 amp but it's a 500 put it on negative side,, storing in side, I wanted every thing to disconnect,, no chance of anything malfunctioning and starting a fire and also running battery down, my old 5ver had a cheaper knife type disconnect, but didn't like the exposure of it all
To me the marine grade is worth the few xtra $$. Reasoning, they are, or should be vapor resistant and will contain the arc and prevent an ignition source for explosion. That way no worries if battery is boiling out hydrogen gas or a propane line is leaking.
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Old 10-11-2018, 04:11 PM   #30
Local150
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To me the marine grade is worth the few xtra $$. Reasoning, they are, or should be vapor resistant and will contain the arc and prevent an ignition source for explosion. That way no worries if battery is boiling out hydrogen gas or a propane line is leaking.
Agreed,, got mine at Napa 32 $
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