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Old 11-30-2017, 03:20 PM   #21
garand41
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Mine is top left.
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Old 11-30-2017, 03:28 PM   #22
garand41
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They must have been short on rubber washers because I didn't get any either.
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Old 12-08-2017, 06:32 AM   #23
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Got mine in September and it didn't have hose washers in it either. Must have ran out that month.
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Old 12-08-2017, 06:47 AM   #24
garand41
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Quote:
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Welcome to the forum!!
Ok what I did was went in coach and turned on the pump switch. Went to the black winterize knob and turned it, I could then hear a kind gurgling sound from the water connection port (hose not connected). I was just testing it after being told how it was to be used. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A WASHER / SCREEN in the connection port.
Now as far as the labels go I did relabel them because mine were also incorrectly labeled.
Two questions for you:
1. Where were the valves leaking? I ask because I noticed water in the pipe when I would take the cap off to hook up the "stinky slinky" I have bought and installed the valtera blade valve on the end to stop the surprise water build up.
2. Why did you put a valve on the suction side of the pump?
I. Two of the three waste valves weren't closing all the way and the cables were hard to move. I took the cables loose and re installed them down through the floor of the cargo area. They were tangled up with wiring and piping. I had to modify the cable end clamps as the cables were not the correct length.

2. I had an old bypass valve for putting antifreeze in the water lines and I installed it for putting in antifreeze. I couldn't get the trailer "winterize valve" to draw in either valve position.Still not sure if I have a loose connection behind the vale or not. Seemed like it took forever to draw water from the fresh tank. I'll look at it next spring.

2012 F 250 Lariat
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Old 12-08-2017, 07:01 AM   #25
IRV2
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I had the same problem with one of the cables being hard to push/pull but I haven't gotten under the trailer yet. Where did your cables go? Did they go through the floor and did you remove the coroplast to do your fix? And did you get any pics of your mod?
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Old 12-08-2017, 08:06 AM   #26
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Got mine in September and it didn't have hose washers in it either. Must have ran out that month.
There weren't any hose washers/screens in our tank flush or winterizing hose connections either. Makes you wonder how they tested these systems? My bad for not demanding a demonstration when we picked up the trailer.

BTW, our winterizing valve is mis-labeled as well. Valve handle horizontal is normal operation - valve handle turned 90* to the right (vertical) is winteriz
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Old 12-08-2017, 10:44 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by jsmith948 View Post
There weren't any hose washers/screens in our tank flush or winterizing hose connections either. Makes you wonder how they tested these systems? My bad for not demanding a demonstration when we picked up the trailer.

BTW, our winterizing valve is mis-labeled as well. Valve handle horizontal is normal operation - valve handle turned 90* to the right (vertical) is winteriz

So I'm not the only that got sprayed by the black tank flush... What washers are yall talking about? Sorry 1st time I've had a black tank flush. Can anyone briefly explain winterizing the camper please. I live in Alabama and we camp quite a bit during the winter months. Do I winterize if we have 3-4 nights of below freezing temps? Never winterized in TT but since I have this option in My "convenience center" I may need to give it a try. Thanks
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Old 12-08-2017, 08:28 PM   #28
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So I'm not the only that got sprayed by the black tank flush... What washers are yall talking about? Sorry 1st time I've had a black tank flush. Can anyone briefly explain winterizing the camper please. I live in Alabama and we camp quite a bit during the winter months. Do I winterize if we have 3-4 nights of below freezing temps? Never winterized in TT but since I have this option in My "convenience center" I may need to give it a try. Thanks
Briefly, winterizing a trailer is for the fair weathered folks that don't camp in the winter... By winterizing, either antifreeze (specific to trailers, not your automotive type) is introduced into the water lines, or the water lines are blown out with air, to keep the fragile lines from being damaged from freezing.

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Old 12-15-2017, 07:11 PM   #29
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Hello fellow new keystone owners I wanted to share a link to the football shaped LED clearance lights on our rigs. One of mine burnt out. In my area I haven't been been to find these is any stores/shops. Its Command Electronics and they sell to the public. I was told me to send then a pic and they would see about possible warranty replacement because its a new 5th wheel. I'll post an update, its no biggie and I will gladly buy one but hey they offered free replacement. The part number is K-51/52 for amber or red.
http://www.commandelectronics.com/shop/
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Old 12-17-2017, 06:09 PM   #30
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Some pics of the Laredo

I wanted to share some Pics showing lettering removed. I may leave the front the way it is currently, I did remove the "by Keystone" lettering.
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Old 12-17-2017, 06:43 PM   #31
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Looks good!!!
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Old 12-25-2017, 08:21 AM   #32
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More on 2018 Laredo 298srl

I'm not to happy with the gas connection for the outside kitchen grill. I have to lay on my back to get to it. When I first tried it, I could barely get any gas pressure. I found that a spring and cable tie had the hose crimped. Anybody else have these problems? Any solutions?
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Old 12-25-2017, 09:52 AM   #33
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I'm not to happy with the gas connection for the outside kitchen grill. I have to lay on my back to get to it. When I first tried it, I could barely get any gas pressure. I found that a spring and cable tie had the hose crimped. Anybody else have these problems? Any solutions?
Our gas connection works, but we also have to lay down to connect.
Dumb. I guess we could install an access door in the skirt. The DW does not like the idea.
The hose on the stove is too short to reach. We just use the hose from our grill for now. I wonder if it's against the code to hook the stove permanently?

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Old 12-25-2017, 10:11 AM   #34
garand41
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Not sure about the code on that?? I wish it could be mounted down low where you access it better. I may explore that in the spring.
I also think we better keep an eye on the supply hose as it does lots of flexing every time we move the slide. I took the spring off of mine and keep a watch on it when putting slide in.
Lastly.... no, the hose on mine just barely is long enough to connect.
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Old 12-25-2017, 05:47 PM   #35
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I agree it is not easy to connect. Because the hose can't stay connected when you stow the stove due to the length of the hose and the fact that you would not be able to close the kitchen door.
I will drill a hole from the under side to the stove area that will allow the hose to stay connected and just turn the propane on and off when needed. I will measure from the door to where the stove stows away to get the hole in the right spot and then drill from bottom up, after transferring the measurement underneath.
If I have to add some hose I will but I see no other way to keep the hose connected without drilling a hole to the connection port.
I will also be keeping an eye on that springing support. thanks for the heads up!
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Old 01-01-2018, 10:36 AM   #36
garand41
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Coleman-Mack Air Conditioners / Laredo 298 srl's

Does anyone know if the Coleman AC's on the 298's are heat strip ready? The strip kits are pretty cheap to buy and I was thinking of adding one to my main AC unit. Not sure if the thermostat would need to be changed or not?
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Old 01-01-2018, 05:07 PM   #37
IRV2
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In our Laredo we have a Coleman Mach 15 in the living area and a Mach 3 plus in the bedroom I think they can be equipped with the heat strip. If you take the vents off like when cleaning their filters; take a look inside you'll see the S/N and Model numbers. I'd call the manufacture just to make sure. From what I've read in the manual they will only take the chill out of the air and not replace the furnace.
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Old 01-01-2018, 05:39 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmith948 View Post
Our gas connection works, but we also have to lay down to connect.
Dumb. I guess we could install an access door in the skirt. The DW does not like the idea.
The hose on the stove is too short to reach. We just use the hose from our grill for now. I wonder if it's against the code to hook the stove permanently?

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I have fixed the dreaded hose connection issue. What I did was drill a hole large enough to feed the propane hose down to the quick connect port. Using a 2'' hole saw bit on my cordless drill.
I measured from the outside of the door, which is just above that black tin skirt. 7" looked like a good place to make a hole inside the where the stove is stored. I then took that measurement and got under the kitchen and measured from the tin skirt out 7". I split the difference between the quick connection port and where the hose comes out of the stove and drilled the hole.
This allowed me to drop the hose down and hook it up and leave it there while camping. Now I can close the door without disconnecting the hose.
* Important note here* If you decide to do this you have to disconnect the hose before you pull in the slide for travel !!
Since you've been under there you'll see what I mean. This is a big improvement because now you won't have to disconnect ever time you want to close the kitchen door at night, and a minor inconvenience really when you consider all the other stuff we have to disconnect to get road ready. Good luck with yours.
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Old 01-02-2018, 06:00 AM   #39
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I have fixed the dreaded hose connection issue. What I did was drill a hole large enough to feed the propane hose down to the quick connect port. Using a 2'' hole saw bit on my cordless drill.
I measured from the outside of the door, which is just above that black tin skirt. 7" looked like a good place to make a hole inside the where the stove is stored. I then took that measurement and got under the kitchen and measured from the tin skirt out 7". I split the difference between the quick connection port and where the hose comes out of the stove and drilled the hole.
This allowed me to drop the hose down and hook it up and leave it there while camping. Now I can close the door without disconnecting the hose.
* Important note here* If you decide to do this you have to disconnect the hose before you pull in the slide for travel !!
Since you've been under there you'll see what I mean. This is a big improvement because now you won't have to disconnect ever time you want to close the kitchen door at night, and a minor inconvenience really when you consider all the other stuff we have to disconnect to get road ready. Good luck with yours.
Why will you have to disconnect to retract the slide? The stove, slide and quick coupler all move together. Is it a clearance issue?
Whatever I do, I'll have to get a longer hose. The copper line that the hose connects to is turned 90* towards the front of the trailer, making the hose too short to reach the quick coupler.
Thanks for sharing your fix.

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Old 01-02-2018, 09:21 AM   #40
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Hi Jack,
I think it will be an issue with clearance because there is only about 1 1/2'' or 2'' gap between where the "floor" of the outside kitchen and the entry area of the trailer. There is a rubber seal on the trailer that I think it might bind up on, so it is just as easy to avoid that by disconnecting and closing valve when preparing for travel. You'll see what I mean when you look at it. Just not worth the risk IMO.
The copper pipe and hose are the same on my unit as well and there was enough hose to make that connection. Its easier after drilling the hole for sure, with a little hose left over even.
I was a little worried about having a hole in that location but then realized that after the slide is pulled in, that hole would be inside the trailer and not exposed to the elements during travel.
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