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Old 07-13-2018, 04:02 AM   #21
Javi
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My 5th wheel will often have both wheels on one side or the other off the ground for a week at a time while camping due to the leveling system.. I have occasionally raised one side at a time to adjust the brakes or change a tire... Most likely I wouldn't hesitate to raise all four tires off the ground if the need arose.. Just had the need... yet
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Old 07-13-2018, 07:20 AM   #22
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Well, After reading all the comments, I decided to just see what Lippert has to say about using their Level-Up system to lift the tires off the ground. They do recommend using a commercial service to change tires (probably for wealthy or lazy owners ?????) but nowhere in the owner's manual does it say not to use the system to lift tires off the ground. In fact, in a warning on page 2, Lippert states that "if you do, be sure to use jacks or blocks (for safety) before you crawl under the unit. Apparently, according to Lippert, it's perfectly fine to use the system to change tires or work on the axles, just don't rely on it to support the trailer without blocks or jacks for safety.

Anyway, here's the warning, you can decide for yourself:

"Lippert Components Inc. recommends that a trained professional be employed to change the tires on the unit. Ensure that the unit is properly supported with jack stands, or other adequate devices, under the frame of the unit prior to commencing any service or repair procedure. Any attempts to change the tires or perform other service while unit is supported solely by the LCI Level-Up® with Automatic Leveling System could result in death, serious injury, unit or property damage."

I don't have a auto leveling system, but if I did, like Javi, I wouldn't hesitate to use it to lift the trailer and work on the tires/axles, but I wouldn't crawl under it without additional support (per Lippert's suggestion).
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Old 07-13-2018, 08:08 AM   #23
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I used my Ground Control 3.0 (4-point) system to raise all 4 tires off the ground when I upgraded to the Carlisle tires several weeks ago. No issues in lifting the rig off the ground high enough to get the job done. Only took about 2 hours to take the tires off, bring them into town to get the new tires mounted, and put back on the camper. I did use a jack stand under each side, near the axles, just for safety, but it worked great. I can't see any reason not to do it that way in the future, as long as some safety common sense is employed.
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Old 07-13-2018, 08:49 AM   #24
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Yes. I think that LCI is okay with 6 point systems as long as you don't work under it while its raised. If I was removing more then one tire then I would block /brace it up just in the event you lost pressure due to a line failure or some other issue. I am really quite impressed with the Auto levelling system so far. I also think that one cylinder has the ability to hold up 10 or 15 thousand pounds. Somewhere I read that it can lift 60,000 lbs (don't hold me to that LOL) . Either way work safe and smart and it should be fine. My 2 cents.
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Old 07-13-2018, 11:42 AM   #25
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Life is a risk, as others have said, I'd use the jacks to lift a tire off of the ground if I needed to change a flat. I'm also inherently lazy, so I'd take it to a tire shop for a six tire change.

I'm an off highway guy (desert racing, rock crawling, adventure travel), I highly recommend this product if you are in the market for a bottle jack.

www.safejack.com
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Old 07-13-2018, 01:26 PM   #26
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Safety first!



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Old 07-13-2018, 01:52 PM   #27
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Safety first!



Attachment 17451
Wow! I guess so! He really overdid it by going with two of those heavy duty supports instead of one!!
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Old 07-13-2018, 02:13 PM   #28
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Wow! I guess so! He really overdid it by going with two of those heavy duty supports instead of one!!
4 x 4s make it OK. Now if he was using 2 x 4s that would be a different story.
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Old 07-18-2018, 12:22 AM   #29
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greetings again, Thanks for all the input. Good information. I have decided to tackle changing two tires that I think that are compromised. Cracks on the sidewalls . Coincidentally the only tires that were manufactured in 2013. The unit came with a bottle jack ( atleast the manual we do have, the PO took the jack.) I have to get a good size breaker bar and a 12 ton bottle jack. I guess if I ever have a flat tire on the road, I would have experience. I see a psot recommends that the trailer not be attached to the truck. I figured that would be better since it would be less stress on the landing gear. I guess it also would be better to have the slides in. THe Keystone manual has a section in there for changing the tires so I guess that has elevated my coinfidence level up. Wish me luck amigos!
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Old 07-18-2018, 12:24 AM   #30
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PS GOt the tires at Walmart. Once the rims are off the rig, they charge 10 dineros for mounting. What a bargain!
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Old 07-18-2018, 01:54 AM   #31
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PS GOt the tires at Walmart. Once the rims are off the rig, they charge 10 dineros for mounting. What a bargain!
Absolutely keep the slides in. $10? You ought to see if they can balance them too.
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Old 07-18-2018, 06:28 AM   #32
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It 3 inch channel cut down to fit the axle and pipe , I use 5 ton Jack
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Old 07-18-2018, 09:15 AM   #33
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[QUOTE=roadglide;297512]It 3 inch channel cut down to fit the axle and pipe , I use 5 ton Jack[/QUOT

The jack should placed directly under the spring pack whether using this device or not or place jack under the frame. NEVER place the jack on the axle tube past the springs.
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Old 07-18-2018, 06:42 PM   #34
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[QUOTE=travelin texans;297531]
Quote:
Originally Posted by roadglide View Post
It 3 inch channel cut down to fit the axle and pipe , I use 5 ton Jack[/QUOT

The jack should placed directly under the spring pack whether using this device or not or place jack under the frame. NEVER place the jack on the axle tube past the springs.
What I have been using your saying is junk , why it disperse the weight over a lager area . Next to the spring pack.
WITH OUT REINFORCING THE AXEL TO PREVENT THE JACK CYLINDER FROM DAMANGING THE TUBE . I have aluiumn plate for a base I can say I have never had a Jack roll off the axle
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Old 07-18-2018, 07:29 PM   #35
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[QUOTE=roadglide;297616]
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Originally Posted by travelin texans View Post
What I have been using your saying is junk , why it disperse the weight over a lager area . Next to the spring pack.
WITH OUT REINFORCING THE AXEL TO PREVENT THE JACK CYLINDER FROM DAMANGING THE TUBE . I have aluiumn plate for a base I can say I have never had a Jack roll off the axle
NOPE! Just saying use it under the springs between the u bolts.
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Old 07-19-2018, 07:29 AM   #36
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I thought of doing the same thing myself....then after realizing that I might do more damage I left it to the pros. I bought my Goodyear Endurance tires on line and had a mobile RV repair company come to the campground and the tires were changed in 1 1/2 hours. Total cost $125.00.
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Old 07-19-2018, 08:02 AM   #37
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If you are buying the tires from the dealer installation is included in the price
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Old 07-19-2018, 09:02 AM   #38
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Jiffy Jack

While a Trailer-Aid is OK for Tandems, it is not as useful for a Triple.
Jiffy Jack is more expensive but makes tire changing a matter of drive on and off (no backing). Get the Extra-Large model and you can be assured the adjacent tire(s) will clear the ground for changes.
As others have said, an impact wrench is a very handy thing to have. Carry a 3/4" socket for quickly getting stabilizers up/down and a 13/16 socket for lug-nuts.
Cordless models are very handy. Check https://bestreviews.com/best-impact-wrenches
I use a Makita BTW450z (18v 1/2") becuase of battery compatability with my existing cordless drills, and it does both tasks quite nicely.
Do not expect a little hex-drive impact/driver to do this kind of work.
WOMM
YMMV
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Old 07-19-2018, 09:26 AM   #39
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I would also like to point out that the lug nuts are torqued to about 100 lbs. An impact driver is almost a necessity. A small portable compressor won't really do so you need a compressor with some capacity which makes dragging the compressor over to the RV a bit of a chore. I have a 160 PSI Sears oil-less that does this for me as it is on wheels. My shop compressor is stationary.
Better not be that tight. Typical lug nut torque is supposed to be 80 lbs (unless some shop uses only their impact wrench!). I've changed my tires twice now. Both times I jacked one side and took off the wheels, took them to a shop and then put them back on myself with a torque wrench set to 80 lbs. Last time was early this year just before my 74th birthday. I did use an air wrench to remove the nuts but put them back on by hand. That first time was to a Firestone dealer and even though I specifically told them NOT to take off the metal valve stems, they still did. Spent two years trying to get 80 psi into those wiggly rubber things until I did the jacking thing again just to replace them with metal ones.

BTW, if your new/old toy hauler has original tires, you've got a blow out coming very soon. Look for the DOT stamp on the sidewalls that has the week and year they were made. Anything over five - six years is suspect and over eight is playing with fire no matter how new they look. These things will rot out from the inside.
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Old 07-19-2018, 10:22 AM   #40
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According to the 2018 edition of the Keystone Owner's Manual, page 23 in the Pre Trip Maintenance section:

"Lug nuts should be torqued to 110-120 ft/lbs (140-150 ft/lbs on hubs using a 9/16” stud)."

This is what's in the 2012 edition of the Owner's Manual, page 21:
"Lug nuts should be torqued to 110-120 ft/lbs on all units except for the Cambridge, which requires 140-150 ft/lbs. This is due to the use of a 9/16” stud versus a 1/2” inch stud used on other units."

This statement precedes the torqueing instructions in the 2012 Manual: "The information contained in these printed instructions outlines the most recently recommended processes involving Lug Nut Torque and takes precedent over any information regarding Lug Nut Torque shown in your Lippert, Dexter or AL-KO Owners’ Manuals."
YMMV
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