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Old 08-12-2015, 05:12 AM   #1
Lrdchaos
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Anyone own the cougar 336bhs?

Looking for info on the 336bhs. Likes, dislikes, wants? Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-12-2015, 06:08 AM   #2
omextreme
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I have one on order, picking up sep 3rd.... I found a guy on reddit who has one only thing he said so far that he doesnt like is that he cannot reach the top vent fan and is changing it to a remote version.

We cannot wait for ours, looked at 5 or so different 336bhs units before we special ordered.

We went with this floorplan for several reasons.
Tv directly across from couch
COUNTER SPACE!!!
Massive pantry
Opposing slides
Bunkhouse (only feature we actually needed)
Outdoor kitchen

My only wish was for an additional 1/2 bath. The 339 has 1.5 baths but the kitchen takes a hit..



Only thing we have left to decide is the hitch for our ram 6.5 bed truck. Leaning towards anderson ultimate but may go autoslider to be safe.... too may decisions.
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Old 08-18-2015, 04:17 PM   #3
cant_remember_ID
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omextreme View Post
I have one on order, picking up sep 3rd.... I found a guy on reddit who has one only thing he said so far that he doesnt like is that he cannot reach the top vent fan and is changing it to a remote version.

We cannot wait for ours, looked at 5 or so different 336bhs units before we special ordered.

We went with this floorplan for several reasons.
Tv directly across from couch
COUNTER SPACE!!!
Massive pantry
Opposing slides
Bunkhouse (only feature we actually needed)
Outdoor kitchen

My only wish was for an additional 1/2 bath. The 339 has 1.5 baths but the kitchen takes a hit..



Only thing we have left to decide is the hitch for our ram 6.5 bed truck. Leaning towards anderson ultimate but may go autoslider to be safe.... too may decisions.
I pick mine up on the 28th. The DW fell in love with one that was sold, got lucky one day on the lot and grabbed it from someone else that came in after us. Can't wait to spend some time with it.

Considered the Anderson hitch too, but went with the B&W Companion. Tough decision though.
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Old 08-18-2015, 04:59 PM   #4
omextreme
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Originally Posted by cant_remember_ID View Post

Considered the Anderson hitch too, but went with the B&W Companion . Tough decision though.
Too funny, I lost so much productivity at work debating the same 2 hitches (gave up on the autoslider, would have been too tall with the puck adapter). Ordered the ultimate last night from amazon....

We will have to compare notes after the first few outings.

I have already started ordering "stuff" for mine. Ordered a Bills Bumper Q mount for it this morning...
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Old 08-22-2015, 06:23 AM   #5
cant_remember_ID
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omextreme View Post
Too funny, I lost so much productivity at work debating the same 2 hitches (gave up on the autoslider, would have been too tall with the puck adapter). Ordered the ultimate last night from amazon....

We will have to compare notes after the first few outings.

I have already started ordering "stuff" for mine. Ordered a Bills Bumper Q mount for it this morning...
You sound like me, spending way too much time thinking about all this.

Installed the B&W the other day. That is a nice piece of metal, but holy cow it is heavy! A few more times getting that hitch in and out of the truck, I may have wished I went with the Anderson. I may change my mind when I actually tow something with it.
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Old 08-30-2015, 05:21 PM   #6
cant_remember_ID
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First trip

We picked up our 336BHS on Friday. So far so good. I'll post my own thread with the details.
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Old 09-24-2015, 03:49 PM   #7
nellie1289
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i Have one too

I spoke to cant remember privately, but thought I would post this for others benefits.

My rear bunk door is pretty far off, its not like the small hole isn't big enough it is way off, and it changes when the slide is out vs when the slide is in. it seems to have gotten worse. my trim around the door is also now bowing out pretty good suggesting the wood has warped a bit as the weather changed over the summer. I have had a fair amount of issues so far, nothing two major where I would tell people to avoid unit all together, but 3 warranty trips for:

1) the main bottom door lock, it just fell right out onto the ground, I have heard a lot of people complaining about this. I am now super careful putting the key in to unlock it cause I cant imagine what would happen if it fell out when the door was locked and the tipouts are out when you are camping? no problems since they replaced it, but then recently it doesn't seem to turn the deadbolt again, so I may need fixed again now.

2) the bottom of my shower was delaminating from the wall, they put more adhesive on and more tabs at the bottom to hold it against the wall.

3) my tv antenna nob last weekend literally just fell out of the hole. the white round thing, and handle just fell onto the bed.

4) my leveling system threw some weird codes, through this forum I found a cool troubleshooting guide I now have in my underneath storage if it does it again. it was easy to reset once you had the trouble shooting guide.

5) my dining room top window literally just shattered randomly, this was before I ever even used it and I had simply drove it home from the dealer and put it in storage. in theory someone could of hit with a rock or something in storage it but it was in covered storage at the time. it took keystone a month to send a new window. I wasn't using it at the time but it was random! it bowed out from the inside out and had no impact mark like someone hit it. Very odd, they covered it under warranty.

6) I had a trim piece above the main slide just fall off going down the road. they renailed it and put some adhesive on.

The largest issue is the bunk door right now. need to take it in but that is such a pain and they usually keep it for a week.

Looking for winterization plan next, I read the manual, seems easy, need to go check out the water heater...will search this forum for some help as this is my first big rv.

Overall love the model, love the convenience. It is a sweet setup.
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Old 09-24-2015, 04:40 PM   #8
LoneLizard
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Thanks for posting this. Pick ours up Saturday so this is great info prior to the walk-thru
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Old 09-24-2015, 05:18 PM   #9
nellie1289
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Thanks for posting this. Pick ours up Saturday so this is great info prior to the walk-thru
No problem. Let's keep in touch and compare notes. I am happy to share anything I have learned in the last six months you may have a question on. Send me a message or post here !!!

On edit, here is a pic of the beast!



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Old 09-24-2015, 05:42 PM   #10
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One more word of warning, the rear spare is WAY too low. you will drag it almost certainly inside the first week of ownership. I takes virtually no slope for it to drag. Check it at inspection/delivery . I have taken mine off and thrown it underneath until I can figure something better out like a taller bracket. Horrible design. Thing is if you drag it too hard it will bend the bike rack too.
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Old 09-25-2015, 06:57 AM   #11
cant_remember_ID
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Originally Posted by nellie1289 View Post
One more word of warning, the rear spare is WAY too low. you will drag it almost certainly inside the first week of ownership. I takes virtually no slope for it to drag. Check it at inspection/delivery . I have taken mine off and thrown it underneath until I can figure something better out like a taller bracket. Horrible design. Thing is if you drag it too hard it will bend the bike rack too.
Good tip, I have dragged mine too several times on the way out of our storage place. I am looking at an under mount rack like someone else posted.

For winterizing, you may know this already, but the water heater and the bypass is accessible through the panel under the microwave. You just have to remove two screws. I will be winterizing mine after our last trip next weekend.
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Old 09-25-2015, 08:10 AM   #12
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Hey this is good info on the access panel, I planned on pulling the plug at the bottom of the water heater and pushing air through the lines through the city water input. My dealer gave me a little adapter that has a bicycle/car tire fitting on top of it(you know the little air valve on your tires) to hook up to a small air pump, the other end screws into the city water. If I am not going to push rv antifreeze through the unit do I really need to do anything in the access panel? I am going to do the air method. SO do I just pop the plug on the water heater here in the pic and open the pressure valve at the top. I planned on pulling all the plugs on the fresh tank, and the hot water/cold water plug near the stairs underneath, opening up all the faucets in the unit(including the sink in the outside kitchen), plugging in the adapter to the outside shower and opening those valves, and pushing some air through. I was then going to put some rv antifreeze in all the downspouts of sinks and toilets by dumping a little in as I have seen in videos. am I missing anything? First time I have done this in a trailer. PS, it doesn't get cold here like reno, pretty rare but we can get a week or two per year of cold weather every other year or so.



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Old 09-25-2015, 01:25 PM   #13
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The "plug" on your water heater is actually the anode rod. You'll need to access the back of the water heater, turn the "bypass valve" that's located on the lower water heater input (cold water line) to bypass the water heater, remove the anode rod, let the water drain, then flush the tank with clear water and once all the "goo" is rinsed out, you can use a wet/dry vac to remove the remaining water in the bottom of the tank. Some people skip the flush, some skip the flush and the water removal with a vac.

Then remove the caps from the low point drains, blow out your hot and cold water lines with compressed air (not higher than 40 PSI) until the low point drains are dry, then cap them, continue to blow out the cold water lines starting with the faucet closest to the city water inlet and moving to the next furthest, etc using compressed air until they all run without "misting". Then blow out the hot water lines using the same procedure. Don't forget the toilet !!!

When everything is dry and ready for storage, remove the low point caps to release that "last little bit" of water, replace the caps and leave all your faucets open so they won't freeze and break and pour antifreeze down the P traps.. Also pour a couple of inches into the toilet bowl to protect the rubber seal from drying out.

Don't forget to blow out (and preferably remove) the anti-siphon valve on the black tank flush system.

Some people leave their black and gray tank valves open, some close them. As long as the tanks are empty, it won't matter which you prefer, but be sure there is no water in the plumbing from the valves to the terminal outlet where you connect the sewer hose.

Most people leave the anode rod out of the fitting so water won't accumulate in the tank, but really it doesn't matter once you vacuum the water out, with the bypass valve closed, you won't get any water standing in the tank. Don't forget to use fresh Teflon tape on the anode fitting and replace the anode if it is over about 75% dissolved. Don't put any antifreeze in your water heater, it is corrosive to the tank lining.

Good Luck
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Old 09-25-2015, 01:29 PM   #14
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My brother used to live in Portland, I don't think he ever winterized either with antifreeze. I think blowing out with air would be good enough if you don't get any temps below freezing. I think your plan to pull the plug on the water heater will be just fine. If you are using compressed air, you may not even need to open the pressure valve. Using a compressor won't get all the water out, it still settles in the low spots, that why I use the antifreeze.

I'll be putting aa bypass valve on my water pump too so I can pump the antifreeze through the lines with the pump.
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Old 09-25-2015, 01:43 PM   #15
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You might consider something like this to blow out your system. It seems with the tire valve attachment, some one has to hold it on there while you run around opening valves in the trailer.

Good information from JRTJH, he posted the same time I was writing mine. I agree with what he says too.
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Old 09-25-2015, 07:11 PM   #16
nellie1289
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Wink

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
The "plug" on your water heater is actually the anode rod. You'll need to access the back of the water heater, turn the "bypass valve" that's located on the lower water heater input (cold water line) to bypass the water heater, remove the anode rod, let the water drain, then flush the tank with clear water and once all the "goo" is rinsed out, you can use a wet/dry vac to remove the remaining water in the bottom of the tank. Some people skip the flush, some skip the flush and the water removal with a vac.

Then remove the caps from the low point drains, blow out your hot and cold water lines with compressed air (not higher than 40 PSI) until the low point drains are dry, then cap them, continue to blow out the cold water lines starting with the faucet closest to the city water inlet and moving to the next furthest, etc using compressed air until they all run without "misting". Then blow out the hot water lines using the same procedure. Don't forget the toilet !!!

When everything is dry and ready for storage, remove the low point caps to release that "last little bit" of water, replace the caps and leave all your faucets open so they won't freeze and break and pour antifreeze down the P traps.. Also pour a couple of inches into the toilet bowl to protect the rubber seal from drying out.

Don't forget to blow out (and preferably remove) the anti-siphon valve on the black tank flush system.

Some people leave their black and gray tank valves open, some close them. As long as the tanks are empty, it won't matter which you prefer, but be sure there is no water in the plumbing from the valves to the terminal outlet where you connect the sewer hose.

Most people leave the anode rod out of the fitting so water won't accumulate in the tank, but really it doesn't matter once you vacuum the water out, with the bypass valve closed, you won't get any water standing in the tank. Don't forget to use fresh Teflon tape on the anode fitting and replace the anode if it is over about 75% dissolved. Don't put any antifreeze in your water heater, it is corrosive to the tank lining.

Good Luck
So leave all the valves closed except the one I'm trying to blow out until I am ready for that valve? Why not open the hot and cold at same time on the valve I'm trying to blow out ? Not enough air pressure? If I'm blowing out from hooked up to the city water spout how does it blow the hot and cold out? Wouldn't that just be cold ? Also how do you flush the hot water tank?
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Old 09-25-2015, 07:30 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by nellie1289 View Post
So leave all the valves closed except the one I'm trying to blow out until I am ready for that valve? Why not open the hot and cold at same time on the valve I'm trying to blow out ? Not enough air pressure? If I'm blowing out for
The city water spout how does it blow the hot and cold out? Wouldn't that just be cold ?
Every faucet you have open reduces the pressure in the lines. You need to maintain enough pressure to push the water "up and over" the rises in the plumbing system. So, opening only one faucet at a time will help you maintain enough air pressure to push the water out of the lines. The plumbing system is "rated" at around 60 PSI, so maintaining air pressure of 40 PSI will assure you don't damage your plumbing.

If you think about it, the "city water" connection is the "central point" where all water enters the trailer. It "splits" at the water heater bypass valve and from there provides hot and cold water to the entire system. The water pump pulls water from the fresh water tank, pressurizes it and supplies it to the same "city water line" through a "tee" connection just downstream from the city water connection. The reason water doesn't flow out of the city water connection when you're self contained is the one way valve that is built into the city water connection. Be careful not to displace the O-ring just behind the wire screen on the city water connection. That O-ring is a part of the one way valve.
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Old 09-26-2015, 07:23 PM   #18
LoneLizard
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Picked up the Cougar this morning. The only snag in the pdi was a leak in the shower. Fixed in 15 minutes.
Camping in it tonight. One trip to Wally World and a few hunge blown on stuff to put in the trailer. It's like buying for a second house.
This thing is nicer than we expected and more comfortable. The 2500HD Denali pulled it like a champ.
Only advice I can offer is that if you use a pullrite auto slide make sure you pull the hitch straight off the pin...😔
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Old 09-26-2015, 08:59 PM   #19
nellie1289
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Great to hear. Yeah I dropped about 1000 on stuff for the inside. Pier one. Wally World. Costco. You name it we got it. Good luck and keep us updated


Ps let's get a pick of the Denali hooked up to it !
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Old 09-27-2015, 06:49 AM   #20
nellie1289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
The "plug" on your water heater is actually the anode rod. You'll need to access the back of the water heater, turn the "bypass valve" that's located on the lower water heater input (cold water line) to bypass the water heater, remove the anode rod, let the water drain, then flush the tank with clear water and once all the "goo" is rinsed out, you can use a wet/dry vac to remove the remaining water in the bottom of the tank. Some people skip the flush, some skip the flush and the water removal with a vac.

Then remove the caps from the low point drains, blow out your hot and cold water lines with compressed air (not higher than 40 PSI) until the low point drains are dry, then cap them, continue to blow out the cold water lines starting with the faucet closest to the city water inlet and moving to the next furthest, etc using compressed air until they all run without "misting". Then blow out the hot water lines using the same procedure. Don't forget the toilet !!!

When everything is dry and ready for storage, remove the low point caps to release that "last little bit" of water, replace the caps and leave all your faucets open so they won't freeze and break and pour antifreeze down the P traps.. Also pour a couple of inches into the toilet bowl to protect the rubber seal from drying out.

Don't forget to blow out (and preferably remove) the anti-siphon valve on the black tank flush system.

Some people leave their black and gray tank valves open, some close them. As long as the tanks are empty, it won't matter which you prefer, but be sure there is no water in the plumbing from the valves to the terminal outlet where you connect the sewer hose.

Most people leave the anode rod out of the fitting so water won't accumulate in the tank, but really it doesn't matter once you vacuum the water out, with the bypass valve closed, you won't get any water standing in the tank. Don't forget to use fresh Teflon tape on the anode fitting and replace the anode if it is over about 75% dissolved. Don't put any antifreeze in your water heater, it is corrosive to the tank lining.

Good Luck
John, thanks for all your information it is much appreciated. Can you recommend a compressor that only puts out 40 psi? how do you "restrict" it to 40ps? Sorry, novice ...

Did a little research and saw this. any thoughts anyone?

http://www.amazon.com/Viair-40047-Au...air+compressor
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2017 Yamaha YXZ1000R SS SE
2019 Can AM Maverick X3 Turbo XRS
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