Surge Protector - Page 6

TheGriz · 02-24-2018, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

If you can remove the breaker panel, there may be enough room to mount it there. Since it’s 50A, you probably have a twist lock connection for the shore cord. There will be a run of Romex from the back side of that to the breaker panel. Cut the wires and you should have enough to wire both sides of the EMS. Remote display should have a long “phone cord” that should allow you options.

Chuck...yes there is room behind the electrical panel. Just too congested for my liking. See my pictures previously posted on the thread...post #14. If I need to tend to the EMS for any reason in future, I really don't want to mess with that's rats nest any more than I have to.

Hence, the reason I plan to go through the partition on the right side of that electrical compartment and into the cupboard under the sink. It's wide open and future maintenance would have much easier access. And it eliminates disturbing any wires connecting to back of breaker/fuse panel.

I'll check in and let everyone know how it works out.

Thanks for all your, and everyone else's, help throughout this thread!!!

Mike

**chuckster57** · 02-24-2018, 07:03 PM

Yup, post pics please.

Brentw · 02-25-2018, 12:44 PM

I was fortunate in that they mounted my transfer switch on the front wall of the pass thru bay. I was able to pull the load lines out, connect to EMS, Mount it to the ceiling and add 18 inches of new cable back into the transfer switch.
Was as easy as it gets, well laying on your back in the pass thru and bending #6 into small plastic boxes. But I'm sure there is worse spots.
First one is view from drivers side, second from passenger side. The remote is mounted on one of the beams in the cabinet, don't expect use it except when hooking up or if there is an issue.

Hodgy · 02-25-2018, 01:03 PM

Nice install, thanks for the photos.

TheGriz · 03-01-2018, 12:13 PM

Here are the pics of the installation of the PI 50amp Hardwired EMS with remote. First picture shows the rats nest of wires behind electrical panel.

See the holes drilled from the electrical panel compartment under the oven, and into the base cabinet on the right. A couple pics of the work in process, and the final zipped up product.

BTW...there was a false wall on the right that is re-installed in pic showing final EMS install.

Lastly, a few pics of the remote install and routing of remote wire, with the help of a few dabs of hot glue.

For the effort report, see my previous report on this thread, post #12: http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...139#post275139

SummitPond · 03-01-2018, 02:24 PM

Mike

Nice job. It's Interesting how the "guts" of the 50A unit are similar looking to the 30A unit.

Ken

WanderOne · 03-01-2018, 03:10 PM

Does anyone know about the problem with EMS-HW50C and it not working with anything but the Honda Generator? I was just talking with support about the install and they said that if you use anything other than a Honda Generator the EMS throws E9 (data link down) error code. And they say there is no way around it. I asked about bypass and they said they can not recommend that for Liability reasons. Anyone have experience with this as I was looking at getting a Champion 3100watt / inverter generator for the same price as the 2000watt Honda as I could then run 1 AC.

mikz86ta · 03-01-2018, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brentw

I was fortunate in that they mounted my transfer switch on the front wall of the pass thru bay. I was able to pull the load lines out, connect to EMS, Mount it to the ceiling and add 18 inches of new cable back into the transfer switch.
Was as easy as it gets, well laying on your back in the pass thru and bending #6 into small plastic boxes. But I'm sure there is worse spots.
First one is view from drivers side, second from passenger side. The remote is mounted on one of the beams in the cabinet, don't expect use it except when hooking up or if there is an issue.

This very similar to our Fuzion 420. We have appears to be the 50A plug above our water connection box, lines travel to the big black box and also over to our Inverter. I was thinking of doing what you did. Mount the surge protector upside down up top. Then adding or curing off extra stock wiring to go to the big black box.
Did you buy extra wire? What gague for 50a?

Brentw · 03-01-2018, 05:11 PM

Nice job thegriz,

Brentw · 03-01-2018, 05:16 PM

6-3 to carry 50 amp.

TheGriz · 03-01-2018, 07:43 PM

Thanks Brent. And yes 6-3 for 50 amp.

I disconnected the existing 6-3 romex from the back of the electrical panel and ran that directly to the EMS. Then I bought an additional 5 foot of 6-3 romex from HD. Stuffs not cheap...$3.17/foot if I'm not mistaking.

If I were to install the EMS in the same compartment of the electrical box under the oven, I probably had enough slack to simply cut the existing romex at the appropriate spot and put the EMS between the cut. But that would have been more of a challenge than I wanted to take on, mounting the EMS in the confines of that space.

Mike

Bostongone · 03-01-2018, 08:22 PM

The picture of the 50 amp surge protector in post #105 clearly shows the three 6 gauge wires connected on each side but what is the gauge of the bare copper ground wire secured to the green bonding posts on each end? So should it be 6-3 with ground or is that assumed as in 12-2 and 14-2 common Romex with ground?

bobbecky · 03-01-2018, 09:33 PM

I installed our 50 amp EMS a while back and also got about 5 feet of the 3-6 cable. The bare ground wire is #8 copper. Instead of using the crimp eyelets for the ground wire that were provided, I used setscrew eyelet connectors I purchase at Lowes where I got the cable. I was fortunate that our power center is high on the wall above the toilet, and there is a huge space behind the power center.

johnsoa2 · 11-26-2019, 08:07 PM

Good evening, We are the proud owners of a 25Res up from a 30amp Passport. We had a plug in surge/ems, but after reading this post decided to go with the hardwired 50amp EMS Progressive. The dealer called tonight and said it would take 4 hours of labor to install it. Does this sound accurate??

**JRTJH** · 11-26-2019, 08:50 PM

Depending on how it's installed, it could take as little as 45 minutes. If it's a "difficult custom installation" maybe 2 or 3 hours. If there's any cabinet work or rebuilding, then maybe more time for that. It sounds like your dealer is expecting to make $500 or more on the install ??? That seems quite a bit if it's a simple install behind the power center...

travelin texans · 11-26-2019, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnsoa2

Good evening, We are the proud owners of a 25Res up from a 30amp Passport. We had a plug in surge/ems, but after reading this post decided to go with the hardwired 50amp EMS Progressive. The dealer called tonight and said it would take 4 hours of labor to install it. Does this sound accurate??

At $100-150 an hour ($400-600 = 1 1/2 to 2 times the surge protector price) labor to install the hardwired, if I couldn't install it myself I'd have to go with the portable & pay the few bucks difference in the two devices.

**sourdough** · 11-27-2019, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnsoa2

Good evening, We are the proud owners of a 25Res up from a 30amp Passport. We had a plug in surge/ems, but after reading this post decided to go with the hardwired 50amp EMS Progressive. The dealer called tonight and said it would take 4 hours of labor to install it. Does this sound accurate??

I've followed this thread in fits and starts but don't recall what would convince you that you needed to go from a plug in to a hardwired unit. If you have the plug in I would forget paying anyone $500 to dump it and have the hard wired unit installed. If you don't have the plug in any longer I would just buy another one and forget having the hardwired unit for that price. If you are dead set on the hardwire unit take the time to see what it would involve and maybe the folks on the forum can walk you through it. It just doesn't make sense to me to pay almost double (and I'm sure it will be by the time they give you the actual price) for the installation. I've used our portable for many years and never had an issue of any kind with it.

bobbecky · 11-27-2019, 11:09 AM

The biggest advantage, that I can see, having the hardwired over the portable plugin EMS is, the hardwired unit will see your inside feed cable up to the EMS unit all the way out to the pedestal and beyond, where the portable unit will only see the pedestal and the electric feeding it. We had a broken ground prong on our shore cable several years ago, and the EMS would not turn on because it couldn't see the ground. If we had the portable style EMS, it would not have seen the missing ground and would have turned on the power and this could have caused a dangerous situation not having the trailer grounded electrically.

johnsoa2 · 11-27-2019, 05:09 PM

Good evening,
So, did you actually have to remove the oven? Our dealer is trying to convince us they will have to pull the oven(which doesn't seem like that big of a deal) to justify 4 hours of labor to install. I provided your suggestion of installing to under sink cabinet...he really liked that idea! We've done a lot of DIY, but nothing "professional" and when I see "electric" I think 'licensed." Still contemplating doing the job ourselves.....

**JRTJH** · 11-27-2019, 06:02 PM

The Progressive EMS comes with an outstanding set if EXPLICIT instructions.

Installation in your trailer would include removing 4 screws to pull the power center out of the cabinet, disconnecting the ROMEX cable inputs (4) and installing them on the EMS input, then buying a 2 or 3 foot section of 6 ga ROMEX, connecting that to the EMS output and attaching the other end of those wires to the connectors where you disconnected the OEM cable. Push the power center back into the cabinet hole and screw those 4 screws back into the power center to secure it to the mount.

After that, plug in the trailer, verify that everything works and open an adult beverage...

Total time, for a "never done it before" user: Probably 1.5 hours.

If you're relatively handy with tools, know the difference in a phillips and a common screwdriver, then "you got this".....

PS: There is NO need to remove the stove..... All the work is done through the 1'x1' hole under the stove where the power center is removed.....

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