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Old 11-18-2018, 10:01 AM   #21
scarlson42
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Originally Posted by cayovelez View Post
Hello all,

I have this issue with my water heater that is driving me crazy. The water heater keeps on leaking via pressure relief valve during refilling all the time. I have change relief valve, re-established air pocket several times a week and still leaking. I am on a travel assignment living on a site with full hooks ups so the city water is always connected and the water heater is on electric mode all the time. I do know that a little drip is normal due to closed system, but the amount of water seems excessive, the gutter on the heater is constantly full and during cycles it drips all over.

what to do?

Thanks,

Carlos
Sorry I can’t help, but maybe the following will help others. The advice comes from a fellow RVer and commercial plumber with many years of experience.

Don’t touch the pressure relief valve on your RV water heater unless absolutely necessary! You’re better off letting the water cool and then slowly unscrewing the anode rod to relieve the pressure. Yes, you’ll get a little wet. In his experience, once you crack open that valve, it’s likely to keep leaking until you replace it. He swears that this is gospel amongst professional plumbers. YMMV, as usual.
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Old 11-18-2018, 12:13 PM   #22
sgrol
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Originally Posted by scarlson42 View Post
Don’t touch the pressure relief valve on your RV water heater unless absolutely necessary! You’re better off letting the water cool and then slowly unscrewing the anode rod to relieve the pressure. Yes, you’ll get a little wet. In his experience, once you crack open that valve, it’s likely to keep leaking until you replace it. He swears that this is gospel amongst professional plumbers. YMMV, as usual.
Not sure about that advice/superstition. I open the pressure relief all the time to drain the hot water tank. Have done so with the last three RVs I have owned and have never had any leakage problems.
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Old 11-18-2018, 01:46 PM   #23
scarlson42
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Not sure about that advice/superstition. I open the pressure relief all the time to drain the hot water tank. Have done so with the last three RVs I have owned and have never had any leakage problems.
I certainly won’t argue against what works for you. His advice is based on commercial and residential systems. I follow it on the RV because it’s no big deal to splash a little water. I only open up the HWH when I winterize and in the spring. Sometimes advice persists based on a few old anecdotes.
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Old 11-18-2018, 04:31 PM   #24
pitman44
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Originally Posted by scarlson42 View Post
Sorry I can’t help, but maybe the following will help others. The advice comes from a fellow RVer and commercial plumber with many years of experience.

Don’t touch the pressure relief valve on your RV water heater unless absolutely necessary! You’re better off letting the water cool and then slowly unscrewing the anode rod to relieve the pressure. Yes, you’ll get a little wet. In his experience, once you crack open that valve, it’s likely to keep leaking until you replace it. He swears that this is gospel amongst professional plumbers. YMMV, as usual.

I can't speak for professional plumbers, but I do own a residential HVAC business. About 1/3 of our client base has hot water heat. We check every relief valve on every boiler or water heater we service. Yes, sometimes they leak afterwards. We replace them if they do and charge our clients.



A relief valve is a primary safety device and as such needs to be tested to verify they will, in fact, release water. Several times a year we find relief valves that won't release water. Add a failed high limit, which we also find several failed every years, and you have a tremendous explosion. Here's a link to a water heater failure in action.


I imagine our client's kids sleeping above the boiler/water heater. IMO, any contractor not checking relief valves is either lazy or ignorant.
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Old 11-18-2018, 04:47 PM   #25
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Good to see a different perspective. You’ve changed my mind,
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Old 11-22-2018, 05:37 PM   #26
cayovelez
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I have tried everything but installing an accumulator tank. I have replaced several relief valves, thermostat, re-establishing air pocket and several water pressure regulators and nothing has helped. It is not a little drip which I understand is normal, is just a large amount of water the gutter is constantly full and drips outside the unit a considerable amount.

So based on two neighbors at where I am staying with my rv, I am very likely switching my water heater to a Girard Tankless water heater. Any comments or suggestions? I am not concerned of having 110 option, i am ok with running propane only water heater.

Thanks
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Old 11-22-2018, 06:00 PM   #27
chuckster57
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If your going tankless, Girard isn’t popular in our shop. Look up Truma.
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Old 11-22-2018, 07:01 PM   #28
pitman44
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Originally Posted by cayovelez View Post
I have tried everything but installing an accumulator tank. I have replaced several relief valves, thermostat, re-establishing air pocket and several water pressure regulators and nothing has helped. It is not a little drip which I understand is normal, is just a large amount of water the gutter is constantly full and drips outside the unit a considerable amount.

So based on two neighbors at where I am staying with my rv, I am very likely switching my water heater to a Girard Tankless water heater. Any comments or suggestions? I am not concerned of having 110 option, i am ok with running propane only water heater.

Thanks

Have you investigated the cost of these units installed?
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Old 11-22-2018, 07:13 PM   #29
cayovelez
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If your going tankless, Girard isn’t popular in our shop. Look up Truma.
Chuckster57,

Thanks for the input. You must only deal with super high end units, the cost of the Truma is not justifiable. Most of the negative reviews on Girard are on first and second gen. Their latest gen gets killer reviews are most people are installing them without issues by themselves. Most people with the latest gen are very happy and after install are saving 200 plus percent vs. Truma. You can make an argument for Truma, but I don't a 100,000 dollar rig I just have a cougar 27 foot with a 6 gallon atwood water heater.

Thanks for the input,
Carlos
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Old 11-22-2018, 07:15 PM   #30
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Have you investigated the cost of these units installed?
The Girard unit 3rd gen with door, frame and cotroller is about 545 which is comparable to the current unit. With the unit I have 6 gallon atwood with an opening of 16x16 it is a simple straight forward swap.
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Old 11-22-2018, 07:17 PM   #31
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Your very welcome. Yeah the truma comes on a “pleasure way” RV and they are 6 figures. I’m glad to hear Girard has made improvements, I know Jayco was using them in class B/C motorhomes and had issues.
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