Water heater 6 verses 12 gal

CHIMOMMY2 · 02-04-2022, 02:34 PM

My old trailer, Coleman 300TQ had a 6 gal WH, the trailer we have now Keystone Fusion has a 12 gal.
I run out of hot water while in the shower, now I haven't changed any habits in the shower, and did take the shower head out of the Coleman, paid alot for it ...low flow saver style.
Could it be the 12 gal tank needs a new anode rod ?
Thanks for any suggestions 😊

dutchmensport · 02-04-2022, 02:52 PM

The anode rod has nothing to do with the amount of hot water your water heater produces, nor how fast it recovers. Its only purpose to is protect the actual tank from chemical deterioration (in a very simple explanation).

With that said, are you running your water heater on gas or electric, or both? And how long of showers are you taking and how hot is the water you shower with. Another factor, how cold is the water coming into the water heater as you are using the existing hot water. If the incoming water is at 70 degrees in the Summer and your water heater is set to 110, the incoming "cold" water doesn't affect the usage near as much as incoming water that is 34 degrees in the winter and your water heater is set to 110. The displacement of the hot water with the incoming cold water will drive how long you truly have "hot" water. Once it's mixed 50/50 with that 34 degree water, you don't have hot water any more.

CHIMOMMY2 · 02-04-2022, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dutchmensport

The anode rod has nothing to do with the amount of hot water your water heater produces, nor how fast it recovers. Its only purpose to is protect the actual tank from chemical deterioration (in a very simple explanation).

With that said, are you running your water heater on gas or electric, or both? And how long of showers are you taking and how hot is the water you shower with. Another factor, how cold is the water coming into the water heater as you are using the existing hot water. If the incoming water is at 70 degrees in the Summer and your water heater is set to 110, the incoming "cold" water doesn't affect the usage near as much as incoming water that is 34 degrees in the winter and your water heater is set to 110. The displacement of the hot water with the incoming cold water will drive how long you truly have "hot" water. Once it's mixed 50/50 with that 34 degree water, you don't have hot water any more.

We run the WH on both, we are in AZ so water coming in from tank should not be an issue.....I would think.
I'm the cooler side. I just don't understand why my 6 gal tank in the Colmen verses the 12 gal tank, would allow me to shower with never running out of hot water. Never changed a thing about the way I use the shower itself. With low flow shower head.....

**sourdough** · 02-04-2022, 03:10 PM

Some thoughts;

You just purchased this trailer, a 2018. Did you go through the water heater? Make sure both the electric and gas work? Did you pull the anode rod to drain the tank AND see how much "stuff" is/isn't in it?

One or the other of your heating sources may be down or malfunctioning. You may have 2' of deteriorated anode rods in the bottom - or only one depending on how it was taken care of. I always had Atwoods until this on and was shocked when I pulled my anode rod/drain at 8 mos. and it was completely gone not to mention the ton of debris in the bottom of the tank.

I would suggest going over the heater from top to bottom since it is 4 years old if it hasn't been done to see what's what.

Javi · 02-04-2022, 03:35 PM

Another consideration would be water pressure, I recently forgot my pressure regulator and went straight from the tap... ran out of hot water, filled the tanks faster and the DW loved the pressure. ��

jasin1 · 02-04-2022, 03:43 PM

I’d check the temp of the water ..should be around 130 deg…I’d wait a while for the tank to heat up then fill up a five gallon bucket in the shower twice and then a little less then a half bucket and see if it’s still hot for all the measurements (12 gallons) to verify it’s working and indeed 12 gallons

Your gonna get some temp loss for the length of run for the water lines

If you have a single handle shower faucet it could have a bad mixing valve… see if you have hot water anywhere else in the rig when it happens

CHIMOMMY2 · 02-04-2022, 03:53 PM

Wow great suggestions from all of you!!! Thank you guys ��
I will go over the the tank completely. Check and drain. But 1st will throw the buckets in the shower, then go from there !! Thank you thank you thank you !!!!

**JRTJH** · 02-04-2022, 07:19 PM

Another possibility is the winterization bypass valve on the back of the water heater (or in the convenience center if it's located there) may not be opening or closing fully, allowing cold water to bypass the water heater and mix with the hot water, causing it to be colder than it should be. If that were the case, it may not run out as fast, but it wouldn't get hot at all, just warm...

Ron · 02-04-2022, 09:05 PM

Also another possible issue is if you have an outside shower valve with both valves in the open position, you will get a cross flow causing you to not have much hot water at all or just warm water

travelin texans · 02-04-2022, 09:07 PM

Make sure the valves on the outside shower are off. If on it could be mixing hot/cold water same as the bypass valve mentioned.

wiredgeorge · 02-05-2022, 06:47 AM

Could be you have more skin area to wet and wash than you did a few years ago... just saying... I am not sure having both propane heat and electric heat will give you longer showers because when you drain the tank neither heats up the water immediately; if used together the water in the tank recovers more quickly but I have never noticed the hot water tank emptying and recovering once you run through the warmed water. I changed the electric heating gizmo on mine to produce hotter water. We use less hot water combined with the cold and do get a bit longer time in the shower; missus can wash her hair time.

CHIMOMMY2 · 02-05-2022, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Could be you have more skin area to wet and wash than you did a few years ago... just saying... I am not sure having both propane heat and electric heat will give you longer showers because when you drain the tank neither heats up the water immediately; if used together the water in the tank recovers more quickly but I have never noticed the hot water tank emptying and recovering once you run through the warmed water. I changed the electric heating gizmo on mine to produce hotter water. We use less hot water combined with the cold and do get a bit longer time in the shower; missus can wash her hair time.

Haha thats a nice one ...." more skin"
Yah its just been few months ago, I don't think it's me !
Were going with flushing the WH and changing the rod .

CHIMOMMY2 · 02-05-2022, 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travelin texans

Make sure the valves on the outside shower are off. If on it could be mixing hot/cold water same as the bypass valve mentioned.

This i will check as well ! Thanks ��

CHIMOMMY2 · 02-05-2022, 07:07 AM

Thanks for the tip ! Will check for sure ��

CHIMOMMY2 · 02-05-2022, 07:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Another possibility is the winterization bypass valve on the back of the water heater (or in the convenience center if it's located there) may not be opening or closing fully, allowing cold water to bypass the water heater and mix with the hot water, causing it to be colder than it should be. If that were the case, it may not run out as fast, but it wouldn't get hot at all, just warm...

Thank you for the information! All great tips ��

CHIMOMMY2 · 02-05-2022, 07:42 AM

Could one change the temp of the waterheater itself? Is there a way ?
Or was it set at the factory?

jasin1 · 02-05-2022, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHIMOMMY2

Could one change the temp of the waterheater itself? Is there a way ?
Or was it set at the factory?

It’s set at the factory..it’s possibly not accurate

**JRTJH** · 02-05-2022, 07:50 AM

The BTU rating for the gas burner (12,000 BTU) and the wattage for the electric element (1440 watts) are the same for the 6 gallon and the 12 gallon Suburban water heater.

Recovery rates are the same and the only "difference is the amount of hot water you start with. Both the 6 and 12 gallon water heaters recover 12 gallons per hour on gas and 6.2 gallons per hour on electric for a total of 16.2 gallons per hour using both gas and electric systems....

So, on a 6 gallon water heater, you have 6+16.2 the first hour and 16.2 after that.

On the 12 gallon water heater, you have 12+16.2 the first hour and 16.2 after that.

Essentially, the only difference is the amount of hot water you have "in the tank" to start your shower. Doing some "fast math", if you have a 2GPM showerhead, the water will start getting cold around 4 minutes into your shower with the 6 gallon heater and around 7 minutes with the 12 gallon heater.

Increase the showerhead to a 3GPM flow rate and water will start getting cool about 3 minutes into the shower with a 6 gallon tank and about 5 minutes with a 12 gallon tank.

These times are with "full flow hot water" (no cold mixed in). Typically, if you mix "half hot/half cold at the shower faucet" then you can double your shower time to 8 and 14 minutes. 1/4 hot:3/4 cold extends further....

Moral to the story: With either a 6 or 12 gallon water heater, there's not the "luxury of endless hot water"... Most people "don't make the conscious decision to conserve hot water" they just "in and out a bit faster than when at home"....

But, essentially, both the 6 and 12 gallon water heaters have the same burner/heating element so recovery rates are the same, it's just "what you start with that gives the larger water heater a 6 gallon advantage..

That's a "3 minute head start is all"....

**JRTJH** · 02-05-2022, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHIMOMMY2

Could one change the temp of the waterheater itself? Is there a way ?
Or was it set at the factory?

The thermostat on "gas only water heaters" is adjustable. On gas/electric water heaters the thermostat is not adjustable. Usually they're shipped with a 120F thermostat. You can buy (hard to find these days) a 125 or 135 degree thermostat to "run the tank hotter" but you also increase the risk of burns.

Also, keep in mind that the limit switch is built into the thermostat and they all are set to "limit power" at the same temperature, so the hotter you run the water heater, the closer to the limit it will be. Sometimes, adding a hotter thermostat means that it will shut down and you have to go outside to push the reset button much more often...

CHIMOMMY2 · 02-05-2022, 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

The thermostat on "gas only water heaters" is adjustable. On gas/electric water heaters the thermostat is not adjustable. Usually they're shipped with a 120F thermostat. You can buy (hard to find these days) a 125 or 135 degree thermostat to "run the tank hotter" but you also increase the risk of burns.

Also, keep in mind that the limit switch is built into the thermostat and they all are set to "limit power" at the same temperature, so the hotter you run the water heater, the closer to the limit it will be. Sometimes, adding a hotter thermostat means that it will shut down and you have to go outside to push the reset button much more often...

your full of good info ! thank you so much for that
i will try to absorb as much as you give

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