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Old 11-04-2017, 04:06 AM   #21
xnman
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Ok... another opinion. I have a Keystone Alpine 5th wheel. My fridge went out after about a year and a half. Knowing what I know now... I would not hesitate to put in a house fridge. Normally longer lasting, able to "wiggle" while moving camper and proven technology of long lasting.
One of the problems with rv fridges is they need to be level to work. When they are not level, they will build up what is called "crystals" in the gas and enough crystals and the fridge won't work.
Most of the time, when moving the rv, the fridge is not level. Thus it should be turned off when moving the rv. This protects the gas and prevents the "crystals" from building up.
Rv fridges are good technology, no moving parts. But as for me, if my rv fridge goes out, I will be getting a house fridge. No. 1 reason is the cost. About $600 to $1,000 for house fridge compared to $3,000 plus for new rv fridge.
Just my 2 cents..... which isn't worth anything anymore.
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Old 11-04-2017, 04:28 AM   #22
chuckster57
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What fridge to get?

While your traveling down the road, the “shaking” of the trailer (refrigerator) prevents the formation of crystals.

Household refers aren’t designed for buildings with regular “earthquakes” and additional latches must be installed to keep the doors closed during travel.

You can replace the cooling unit on an RV fridge for less than $1000.00. I’ll take an RV refer over a residential in an RV EVERY time.
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Old 12-09-2020, 05:13 PM   #23
sandy43
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Samsung Fridge.

My Samsung residential went out or going out soon. Will replace with another residential fridge, definitely NOT Samsung. What brand, don't know. Any suggestions?
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Old 12-12-2020, 08:09 PM   #24
bobbecky
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After having the cooling unit replaced in our 12 cu ft Norcold within the first three years, once due to crystals and the second time due to a leak, we are still working well. The only change we made was to install an ARP device and it does not allow the unit to overheat, which is what causes the crystal buildup. Sitting here this evening with the remote temperature device next to me, the freezer is at 13 degrees and the fridge is at 35 degrees. I have no financial interest in the ARP device company, but their product does work and I am very happy not having fridge issues. This is the link to their site. https://www.arprv.com/
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Old 12-13-2020, 05:49 AM   #25
Vet4jdc
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Unlike Chuckster57, I like my residential fridge and we've had both. While the RV fridge worked fine in our 2013 Mountaineer, we now have the 18 cu ft Samsung in our High Country and would not go back.

We have ran it off the battery(s) for up to 8 hours. It cools fast on startup. And....this is the big one for me, we love the icemaker and use it 100% of the time while camping.

I have not purchased ice for a cooler for the past 2 years. At $3.00 per bag, I have saved tons of money buying ice.

Good luck with your decision and do what fits you. I think you will be satisfied either way.
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Old 12-13-2020, 06:50 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
If his inverter is like most used it should be a "pass through" style meaning it will allow 110VAC "through" it while plugged into shore power.

IMO residential fridges belong in a permanent residence. RV fridges belong in RV's. Yeah maybe a residential refer gets cold faster and is bigger, but you'll never convince me it was built to bounce down the road, and the doors won't stay closed without adding some type of travel lock.

I have used RV refers since my first fiver in '89 and haven't ever had a failure. Am I lucky or is it the fact that they are made for RV application. BTW all my refers have been Dometic.
I agree whole heartedly with Chuck! Just my personal opinion, but never had a problem with RV refrigerators. We have a big 18cf model now and love it. Someone mentioned ice: we freeze our own pre-trip and during the trip, the 18cf unit has tons of freezer space. I would not want the pressure of having to maintain a separate battery system and converter running every day to keep the fridge going! Each to his own of course, but I wouldn't want a residential in my RV.

Had to chuckle at John's post: here's a photo of our first rig and "refrigerator". Amazing how our "expectations" have changed in the last 50 years! We were poor collage students back then (about 1971):
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Old 12-13-2020, 07:27 AM   #27
rhagfo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
While your traveling down the road, the “shaking” of the trailer (refrigerator) prevents the formation of crystals.

Household refers aren’t designed for buildings with regular “earthquakes” and additional latches must be installed to keep the doors closed during travel.

You can replace the cooling unit on an RV fridge for less than $1000.00. I’ll take an RV refer over a residential in an RV EVERY time.
I am with Chuckster on this also! While we have had to replace the cooling unit on our two refers the first was in a fixer 5th wheel (1986 King of the Road) that we bought to see if we wanted to get back into RV life. The other was in our current 2005 Copper Canyon, at 13 years old, both worked great after replacement. I did both replacements very easy.
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