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Old 10-07-2018, 05:32 AM   #21
flybouy
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I installed this one about 16 months ago. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just drilled the lid of the battery box with a hole saw and sealed with black RTV silicone. A short battery cable, connected ground to switch. All in for under $30. YMMV
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Old 10-07-2018, 06:30 AM   #22
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I have been using a harbor freight one in my 442 and rv for 10 years works great.
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Old 10-07-2018, 06:47 AM   #23
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I also use a HF battery cutoff switch, mounted on the negative cable and have used it on two trailers (moved it from the Springdale to the Cougar). It is installed in a non metallic switch box and has worked well for at least the past 8 years. Here's a photo of it in the Springdale (with 12 VDC batteries). The current installation is with 6 VDC batteries in the Cougar.
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Old 10-11-2018, 08:05 AM   #24
Bnrc73
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What's wrong with a blade switch on the positive side of the battery to completely cut power to the whole unit. That's what I have. 5er can sit for a couple months without significant power loss to the battery.
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Old 10-11-2018, 09:59 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Bnrc73 View Post
What's wrong with a blade switch on the positive side of the battery to completely cut power to the whole unit. That's what I have. 5er can sit for a couple months without significant power loss to the battery.
Not an electrician, but I believe connecting the disconnect to the neg terminal is a safety measure. If you have the disconnect on the positive, and you touch it to anything on the trailer (which would still be grounded to the battery) you could complete the circuit resulting in a dangerous situation (i.e. if you were wearing a watch, which touched the disconnect and trailer, you just put yourself inline of the circuit). Same reason they always say to disconnect the negative terminal to any car battery first. All this said, if the disconnect is well shielded, etc there would obviously be less chance of a connection occurring.
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:37 AM   #26
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That’s gonna be a lot of current across that battery disconnect switch. The slides and LG draw the most current when operating. I’d leave them wired as is if it were me. Possible can of worms down the road if rewired
Mine is a switch that is rated for 12 or 24 volts and good for 500 amps. Pretty sure I am safe
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Old 10-11-2018, 01:52 PM   #27
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Thanks Duck. That makes sense. I'm switching mine to the negative side tomorrow.. ten minute job.
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Old 10-11-2018, 02:57 PM   #28
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My 5ver is in a heated bldg. for winter , put a marine type switch in thought it was 300 amp but it's a 500 put it on negative side,, storing in side, I wanted every thing to disconnect,, no chance of anything malfunctioning and starting a fire and also running battery down, my old 5ver had a cheaper knife type disconnect, but didn't like the exposure of it all
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Old 10-11-2018, 03:36 PM   #29
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My 5ver is in a heated bldg. for winter , put a marine type switch in thought it was 300 amp but it's a 500 put it on negative side,, storing in side, I wanted every thing to disconnect,, no chance of anything malfunctioning and starting a fire and also running battery down, my old 5ver had a cheaper knife type disconnect, but didn't like the exposure of it all
To me the marine grade is worth the few xtra $$. Reasoning, they are, or should be vapor resistant and will contain the arc and prevent an ignition source for explosion. That way no worries if battery is boiling out hydrogen gas or a propane line is leaking.
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Old 10-11-2018, 04:11 PM   #30
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To me the marine grade is worth the few xtra $$. Reasoning, they are, or should be vapor resistant and will contain the arc and prevent an ignition source for explosion. That way no worries if battery is boiling out hydrogen gas or a propane line is leaking.
Agreed,, got mine at Napa 32 $
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Old 10-11-2018, 04:12 PM   #31
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Added cutoff switch to my battery box. Also, added voltage indicator and
accessory port for solar.
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Old 10-11-2018, 08:52 PM   #32
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That’s gonna be a lot of current across that battery disconnect switch. The slides and LG draw the most current when operating. I’d leave them wired as is if it were me. Possible can of worms down the road if rewired
Aggreed! I am going to disconnect all electrical when i store it, ......JUST..... Disconnect the positive side of the battery.....no need for another swich. Take the wire off the battery post. Zip tie it off somewhare else. When you need it , screw it back on.
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Old 10-12-2018, 09:11 AM   #33
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Using a switch or disconnect with a higher current rating than is needed will not cause any issues. Using fuses with a higher current rating than what they should be, may cause serious issues. And remember this, disconnect switches, like a battery isolation switch will have ratings for both voltage and current. If it is rated at let's say 50 amps at 12VDC, and you are using it at a higher voltage, the current rating will be less. Direct current (DC) will always have a tendency to "arc" when it is open if there is a load on it, so remember, when opening one, try to have the least amount of load on it as possible with the situation you are in...AND, operate the switch very quickly...in other words, don't lolly gag around when you are opening it, make it snap open. Just some random thoughts on the topic and things that you may already know, but it never hurts to remind...or enlighten!
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Old 10-12-2018, 01:40 PM   #34
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battery switch vs disconnect

my opinion,
My Keystone Sprinter, like Just Beclause said, has a disconnect which does NOT disconnect the slide outs, leveler, or remote control items. I researched and decided that is good for me, I usually turn switch off but can still open slide and inspect now and then in storage.
The issue is of course, not everything is off, and I accidently left the patio light on (which remote turns on separate from the manual switch). Also, if you do any electrical work, disconnect is a must.

Safest isolation method is to disconnect the battery on the (-) negative terminal. Either remove cable or install a second switch. I recommend doing this for long storage periods (over month). Not much draw down in short time but you will need to charge up about every 6 weeks or so.
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Old 10-12-2018, 02:19 PM   #35
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I have a 2014 Alpine had to put full cutoff switch on positive cable
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Old 10-13-2018, 02:32 PM   #36
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Cut-off switch

Since the wiring is only good for 30A there is no need for a 500A switch. And the slides don't draw 100A. But here is what you can do. The power switches are on the positive side of the battery lead the may still be circuits that are "hot". The best way to overcome that is to simple re-wire the switch the cut the power on the grounf or negative lead. That way once activated there is NO power flowing in any circuit, which is really what you want. And a 30A switch from a auto supply store will work fine.

Happy camping.
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