Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Keystone RV Forums > Keystone Tech Forums > Repairs & Maintenance
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 10-04-2018, 05:10 AM   #21
wiredgeorge
Senior Member
 
wiredgeorge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Mico, TX
Posts: 7,392
The outlets tied to the GFCI plug are all tied together. If one trips the GFCI circuit in say the kitchen, then the GFCI you have in the bathroom will pop. They don't put separate GFCI OUTLETS as this would be more expensive and rely on the one with all the other outlets tied to it to blow if there is a ground fault. Reset the one in the bathroom and see if you have power at the outlets. BTW: Works the same in your house. There may be more than one GFCI outlet in your house but there will be several outlets tied to to it. They don't stick GFCI outlets at every outlet due to cost.
__________________
wiredgeorge Mico TX
2006 F350 CC 4WD 6.0L
2002 Keystone Cougar 278
2006 GL1800 Roadsmith Trike
wiredgeorge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2018, 05:49 AM   #22
flybouy
Site Team
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,709
Quote:
Originally Posted by W7PSK View Post
Neutrals and grounds are tight
What does this mean "tight"? Are you referencing the screws? There's only one thing that make sense to me, an incorrectly wired or other issue with the pedestal. most likely a lost neutral. If everything works at the dealer and not at the cg then logically it would be the cg pedestal. If nothing on the ACV side doesn't work then you are missing something coming in. A wiring diagram of the camper is not going to help you. As Chuck suggested, a simple, inexpensive plug in circuit tester may help you with this, $5 at HD https://www.homedepot.com/p/Power-Ge...FVIFDAodRhAB6g
Maybe this diagram will help as all 50 amp rvs are wired this way.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	wiring-diagram-for-50-amp-rv-outlet-free-download-best-of-1360x765.jpg
Views:	558
Size:	100.0 KB
ID:	18788  
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
flybouy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2018, 06:06 AM   #23
Carrottop
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Winnipeg, MB
Posts: 329
Are you using a 50amp extension cord of the unit or the direct shore power cable. I know it may sound silly but I had an extension cord for my old class A and it once acted as yours is and it was a bad extension cord.
__________________
____________
John & Ekeen
2009 Ford F-150 5.4
2015 Nissan Armada 5.6
2021 Keystone Residence 40FLFT
Carrottop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2018, 07:21 AM   #24
hankaye
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Arrey,
Posts: 2,368
W7PSK, Howdy;

On my rig there is a secondary GFCI in the outside outlet, the one
next to the door.

hank
__________________
Striving for a less complicated life since 1949 ...

Home: 2008 Cougar 278 RKS
T.V.: 2004 F-250 4X4, Level III BulletProofed , Detroit Tru-Track Differential (915A550)
Dog: 2006 Border Collie (Rascal) aka Maximum fur dispersal unit. (08/04/2006 - 12/16/2017) RIP.
hankaye is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2018, 07:45 AM   #25
travelin texans
Senior Member
 
travelin texans's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
My thought was the pedestal as well!
Your surge protector/ems should have shown a fault. Don't tell us you don't have one.
__________________
Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
travelin texans is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2018, 08:16 AM   #26
AbHDToyHauler
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 306
He said he's measuring ac in the trailer after the breakers so I doubt that is pedestal?
__________________
2020 GMC 3500 Denali Dually Duramax 6.6
2013 Fuzion 342 ToyHauler (Ours)
2011 Harley Davidson Streetglide custom (Mine)
2012 Harley Davidson TriGlide (Trike) (Hers)
AbHDToyHauler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2018, 10:41 AM   #27
W7PSK
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Everett
Posts: 84
Im 100% positive its the Neutral feeding from the trailer Connector to the Power panel. I was getting it ready to go and slammed the basement door and everything came roaring back to life.

Because of physical limitations I took it up for repair because I cannot crawl through the basement area to find it.

I did see signs of Mouse/Rat in the area it runs though so I bet it chewed almost through.
__________________
Rick and Diane Scott
Everett, Washington
2008 Everest 322R
2011 F-350 SRW Long bed Crew Cab.
W7PSK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2018, 02:39 PM   #28
FlyingAroundRV
Senior Member
 
FlyingAroundRV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 708
Quote:
Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
Help me here. I've been out with visitors and came in and read this but....what does the converter have to do with no AC at the plugins, no airconditioner, microwave etc.? It powers the DC side to charge batteries etc. using the AC input. Maybe I need a slap to wake me up (I've spent the last 10 hours "visiting" with folks I don't know) but the symptoms to me sound like a loss of continuity between power and neutral....or some sort of gfi problem if all items haven't been accounted for????
Here's a possibility:
On my trailer (I have a 30A service, but it may be similar in other setups with the WFCO converters) the AC input to the converter is crimped into a "bootlace" connector with another wire. The bootlace connector is screwed into the breaker and the other wire from the bootlace connector is connected to the first powerpoint in the chain, whin in my trailer happens to be the plug that powers the fridge.
Here's the problem with that: the second wire coming out of the bootlace connector is stranded cable (vs solid) and it is connected to a solid wire that feeds the powepoints WITH A TWIST ON WIRE NUT. This is a REALLY crappy connection that is very prone to failure.
In my trailer, this crappy connection caused my fridge to continually cycle on and off the AC power to the extent that it blew the electric heater element in the fridge. Here's how: The fridge measures the incoming AC voltage to decide whether to operate on gas or electric. When my fridge would cycle to electric and turn on the element, the voltage would drop due to the crappy connection at the wire nut, then the fridge would switch to gas. The voltage would rise to an acceptable level and the fridge would try to cycle back to electric ... Rinse repeat ad infinitum until the electric element failed. A bit like standing in a room and flicking the light switch on and off until the bulb fails.

The may be part of the OPs problem, or not, but it's worth checking.
__________________
Regards,
Scott
2015 F250 2WD Crew Cab
2018 Outback 272UFL

https://www.youtube.com/user/TheCscotthendry
FlyingAroundRV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2018, 06:56 PM   #29
flybouy
Site Team
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,709
Quote:
Originally Posted by W7PSK View Post
Im 100% positive its the Neutral feeding from the trailer Connector to the Power panel. I was getting it ready to go and slammed the basement door and everything came roaring back to life.

Because of physical limitations I took it up for repair because I cannot crawl through the basement area to find it.

I did see signs of Mouse/Rat in the area it runs though so I bet it chewed almost through.
Sounds like you just acquired your target.
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
flybouy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2018, 08:37 AM   #30
Steveo57
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Lisbon
Posts: 551
Not sure how you could have been getting 120 volts to neutral in the RV if it was an open neutral? Maybe you were measuring to ground?
__________________
2018 Keystone Cougar 22RBS
2020 Ford F-350 XLT SC SRW 6.7l Powerstroke.
Steveo57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2018, 03:53 AM   #31
flybouy
Site Team
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,709
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steveo57 View Post
Not sure how you could have been getting 120 volts to neutral in the RV if it was an open neutral? Maybe you were measuring to ground?
Logically he couldn't. My guess he's checking line to ground. The only thing it can be is a missing neutral. If he has voltage from line 1 & 2 and NOTHING works then it's a missing neutral. ThIs is assuming no EMS as he never answered that question. If he has a missing ground then the 110vac light and fan should work as that shouldn't be on a gfi and the ground is a safety device. We also don't know if he knows how a gfi works or how they feel when reset. I hope he updates his post when he gets resolution.
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
flybouy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2018, 06:09 AM   #32
W7PSK
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Everett
Posts: 84
Fly
I was checking Line to the buss bar where the Neutral was tied to. Not sure why it measured, I do not have EMS or Surge protector on the system, but Im going to invest in one. Im not familiar with RV terminology, but I worked on Aircraft wiring for a career in the Navy. Its just the Color coding for RVs is screwy .

Not sure why I could read a voltage on the Meter going to the Buss bar off neutral, but I did. Also when I slammed the Basement door and everything coming on tell me a loose connection somewhere. Whether it be a Wire nut or a chew through.
__________________
Rick and Diane Scott
Everett, Washington
2008 Everest 322R
2011 F-350 SRW Long bed Crew Cab.
W7PSK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2018, 09:02 AM   #33
Steveo57
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Lisbon
Posts: 551
Possibly the neutral and ground are connected somewhere in there. Shouldn't be but that's the only thing I can think of.
__________________
2018 Keystone Cougar 22RBS
2020 Ford F-350 XLT SC SRW 6.7l Powerstroke.
Steveo57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2018, 03:23 PM   #34
hdrolling
Senior Member
 
hdrolling's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Grays Creek, NC
Posts: 334
We were at a camping plugged into the 50 amp and the same stuff was happening, checked the inline surge protector and sure enough the camp ground 50 plug had a bad breaker. So we were getting half the power but not enough to run the A/C.

I believe this is why everyone is asking if you have an inline surge protector, they have lights on them and will tell you if the issue is coming from the shore power or not.

Even if this isn't your issue and it is rats do yourself a favor and get one, at least in the future you'll be able to take one look and know if the shore power is the issue.
__________________
2018 Chevy LTZ 3500 4X4, DRW, QC, 6.6L TD, Factory trailer prep, Andersen Aluminum hitch
2015 Raptor 332TS 38' Toyhauler, Maxxis M8008,Splendide 2100XC, Winegard RoadTrip Mission satellite dish, King sleep number bed


Retired Army, 22yrs
hdrolling is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2018, 03:38 PM   #35
sourdough
Site Team
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,598
I just had an issue happen yesterday that would seem appropriate to post in this thread dealing with AC power and an EMS power module.

We had friends that had been traveling all around the Northwest returning back this way and wanted to stop and visit for a day or two. They inquired about a place to put their RV (40' Grand Design 5vr). I suggested they may want to stay at the little RV park that the city provides for free. They came in and got into the site and got ready to set up. I was there as well. A fellow came walking up and said the power was "iffy". They used an EMS but he just pulled out his meter and we began checking outlets. He had backed into the only 50A plug they had so we checked it; 120 on one hot leg not the other and only to ground...no neutral. Went to the next 30A and no power; went to the next 30A and....120 to grd on one side, the neutral side had 260VAC!!! It would have fried whoever/whatever plugged into it. I advised he leave and go to an RV park and pay for a site which he did.

These are the kinds of things "lurking" at various RV parks that may or may not have good power. I've found several places like that and it is the reason that an EMS is absolutely critical before you plug in IMO. Don't know how I went years without one but won't leave home without one now.
__________________
Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
sourdough is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2018, 04:40 PM   #36
FlyingAroundRV
Senior Member
 
FlyingAroundRV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 708
A couple of really good posts on this thread show why you need to protect your trailer from the campgrounds. It's also important to get a water pressure regulator. I read a story somewhere that a guy with a brand new trailer hooked up at a campground and went out for the day. When he got back, the trailer was flooded because one of the plumbing connections in his trailer wasn't tight and the outside pressure was enough to blow the joint.
When we got our trailer, I intended to install an EMS and didn't get around to it until after I hooked up to a friend's home made extension cord and zapped the converter and the Blue Ray player.
__________________
Regards,
Scott
2015 F250 2WD Crew Cab
2018 Outback 272UFL

https://www.youtube.com/user/TheCscotthendry
FlyingAroundRV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2018, 09:17 AM   #37
W7PSK
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Everett
Posts: 84
I do run a pressure regulator. I plan on a Surge EMS protector soon

With that in mind, any recommendations.
__________________
Rick and Diane Scott
Everett, Washington
2008 Everest 322R
2011 F-350 SRW Long bed Crew Cab.
W7PSK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2018, 07:22 PM   #38
W7PSK
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Everett
Posts: 84
Took it back for no power and they couldnt find anything

I had used a meter Neutral to power (each leg) on the power cords and measured voltage. Rig checked out again ... so on a whim I bought a new power cord

Its now working.

RVs drive me nuts.
__________________
Rick and Diane Scott
Everett, Washington
2008 Everest 322R
2011 F-350 SRW Long bed Crew Cab.
W7PSK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2018, 08:26 AM   #39
Tcarter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Hemingway
Posts: 8
Check the ground fault plug in bathroom
Tcarter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2018, 02:18 PM   #40
flybouy
Site Team
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,709
Quote:
Originally Posted by W7PSK View Post
Took it back for no power and they couldnt find anything

I had used a meter Neutral to power (each leg) on the power cords and measured voltage. Rig checked out again ... so on a whim I bought a new power cord

Its now working.

RVs drive me nuts.
My guess would be that the neutral conductor wasn't carrying the load. One strand of wire would give you a voltage with no load. I would bet that if you take the two ends of that cable that you replaced and check the resistance (ohms) from plug to end you will find the culprit, the leg with high the resistance. If you do find it, remove the plug and check again. If all good replace the plug and have a spare or better yet buy m & fm plugs and you have an extension chord.
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
flybouy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
power

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Keystone RV Company or any of its affiliates in any way. Keystone RV® is a registered trademark of the Keystone RV Company.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:40 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.