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04-23-2017, 08:31 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Niagara Falls, NY
Posts: 79
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JT Strongarm maintenance
My Laredo came with the JT Strongarms installed from the factory. I bought the trailer used and always had trouble sliding the curbside jack up into the trailer. I noticed the pivot bolts on the landing gear were bent a little bit and ordered replacement ones, thinking maybe that was part of the problem. When I pulled the slider tubes out to clean them up and install the new bolts I found that someone must have pulled the jacks up with the t-bolts tight. That caused a bunch of the metal to drag and create a lump over 1/8" high on the tube. I filed that, along with all of the other marks from the t-bolts, off and repainted the slider tubes and installed the new bolts. Just wanted to share that if anyone else notices binding on them it would be worth doing a little maintenance on them. I'll be taking the trailer out in a few weeks and I'll see if it helps.
Chris
__________________
2019 Jayco Pinnacle 36KPTS
2016 Sierra 3500HD CC,SRW,Diesel,long bed, factory hitch prep
Past:2012 Laredo 335TG, 2003 Cedar Creek 28LRLFS
2003 Flagstaff 25LB,1993 Terry 35V
1982 Serro Scotty 18',1976 Dutchcraft 25'
1972 Banner 18'
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04-24-2017, 03:51 AM
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#2
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Site Team | Emeritus
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,878
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Good Head's Up! I'm sure that this will help someone else! Thanks for sharing your find!
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Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Impact 312
2017 Silverado 3500HD SRW
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04-24-2017, 04:17 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Oswego
Posts: 604
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Installed them on my last fifth wheel - original installation called for lithium grease (White grease) at the pivot points. After that I used WD-40 to keep things lubricated - including the T bolt threads. I made the mistake of withdrawing the rears without loosing the T bolt - does leave a gouge - clean it up with some sandpaper for metal and re-painted.
I have the installation manual in a .pdf file if you need it.
from the manual:
Put a thin layer of white grease, if you have it, on the shaft and the washer that’s on the swing-bolt. If you don’t have white grease, regular bearing grease will work fine. Also,put a little bit of grease on the outside of each of the flanges on the bushings
Put a little grease on another washer and put it on the swing-bolt on the outside of the electric jack clevis. Then put a 3/8 inch extra heavy nut on the swing-bolt. Tighten the nut until you take the side play out of between the clevis and flanged bushings. Note: DO NOT TIGHTEN TOO TIGHT. Tighten just until the side play is gone- and no more!
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RV - 2017 Avalanche 320RS
TV - 2011 Chevy Silverado 3500HD LTZ CCLB Duramax SRW 4X4
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04-24-2017, 05:17 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Okmulgee
Posts: 51
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I spray a little dry lube on the pivot points on mine, and always make sure I loosen the "T" bolts before retracting the stabilizer jacks. Grease would certainly work as well, I just like to lessen the possibility of attracting dirt as much as I can. I agree with NorskeBob on not to tighten the bolts too tight.
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-Dave
TV - 2013 Toyota Tundra TSS 4x4 5.7L
TT - 2017 Keystone Outback Ultra Lite 293UBH
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04-24-2017, 05:53 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Windsor
Posts: 62
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I have to ask, are the JT strongarms worth the costs? Been debating purchasing them and with my limited upgrade budget for this year, I was going to pass, but if they truly eliminate 80-90% of the wiggle in the trailer I would definitely go for them.
Has anyone who has them ever jacked up the trailer and gave it a goo wiggle so test the difference between with them not locked down and then with them locked down? Would truly love a real world review of this system of wiggle prevention.
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04-24-2017, 06:18 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Okmulgee
Posts: 51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Double b
I have to ask, are the JT strongarms worth the costs? Been debating purchasing them and with my limited upgrade budget for this year, I was going to pass, but if they truly eliminate 80-90% of the wiggle in the trailer I would definitely go for them.
Has anyone who has them ever jacked up the trailer and gave it a goo wiggle so test the difference between with them not locked down and then with them locked down? Would truly love a real world review of this system of wiggle prevention.
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Absolutely! I did lots of test with the JT's, comparing them to X-Chocks, jacks on the frame by the axles, and just the scissor stabilizer jacks by themselves. My conclusion was hands down, the JT Strong Arm. I paid somewhere around $150 or so for mine 2 1/2 years ago on Amazon.
In fact, I took the JT's off my Jayco before trading it in and installed them on my Outback.
Just remember the JT's won't get 100% of the wiggle out but it does do a fantastic job of reducing it to where its barely noticeable to me and the DW. So I would definitely say they are worth the investment.
Be sure to follow the directions to a "T" and plan the installation carefully. Easy to install, just time consuming. Hope this helps.
__________________
-Dave
TV - 2013 Toyota Tundra TSS 4x4 5.7L
TT - 2017 Keystone Outback Ultra Lite 293UBH
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04-24-2017, 06:19 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Oswego
Posts: 604
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We noted less wiggle after the installation. Once installed I stopped using the king pin stabilizer. Was worth the money to me.
If you install them your self get a good set of drill bits - the frame steel is pretty hard. Start with a smaller bit and work up to the size needed for the bolt to go through the frame. The instructions that came with the strong arms are pretty good.
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RV - 2017 Avalanche 320RS
TV - 2011 Chevy Silverado 3500HD LTZ CCLB Duramax SRW 4X4
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04-24-2017, 08:11 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Okmulgee
Posts: 51
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+1 on the drill bits! and wear safety goggles as the hot metal shavings can get in your eyes.
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-Dave
TV - 2013 Toyota Tundra TSS 4x4 5.7L
TT - 2017 Keystone Outback Ultra Lite 293UBH
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04-24-2017, 11:44 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Double b
I have to ask, are the JT strongarms worth the costs? Been debating purchasing them and with my limited upgrade budget for this year, I was going to pass, but if they truly eliminate 80-90% of the wiggle in the trailer I would definitely go for them.
Has anyone who has them ever jacked up the trailer and gave it a goo wiggle so test the difference between with them not locked down and then with them locked down? Would truly love a real world review of this system of wiggle prevention.
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Yes!!!
One needs to watch sales and prices carefully. I picked mine up on sale at CW on line for $185.00.
Currently the best price I see is PPL Motor Homes @ $224.56
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/r...stabilizer.htm
Makarios RV Parts also has a great price at $222.88
https://www.makariosrv.com/strong-ar...-short-191024/
__________________
Russ & Paula and Belle the Beagle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW 14,000# GVWR (New TV)
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS 32’ GVWR 12,360
Visit and enjoy Oregon State Parks
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04-24-2017, 06:58 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Kyle, Texas
Posts: 449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Double b
I have to ask, are the JT strongarms worth the costs? Been debating purchasing them and with my limited upgrade budget for this year, I was going to pass, but if they truly eliminate 80-90% of the wiggle in the trailer I would definitely go for them.
Has anyone who has them ever jacked up the trailer and gave it a goo wiggle so test the difference between with them not locked down and then with them locked down? Would truly love a real world review of this system of wiggle prevention.
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Oh ya they are worth it! Have them on my Bullet. I will never have an RV without them from now on. 2 thumbs up!
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2016 Silverado 2500HD
2015 Bullet 272BHS
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04-29-2017, 08:02 AM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Okmulgee
Posts: 51
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Another thing I just noticed after installing on my new trailer is make sure to tighten the bolts at the pivot points where they still move freely but without any "wiggle". Otherwise, you will get an annoying sound every time you move inside the trailer.
__________________
-Dave
TV - 2013 Toyota Tundra TSS 4x4 5.7L
TT - 2017 Keystone Outback Ultra Lite 293UBH
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04-29-2017, 12:50 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Cedaredge, Colorado
Posts: 108
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I gave up on WD40. WD stands for water dispersal and not lub. It also seems to gather dirt. I've switched to a dry graphite lube. Also, I'm not sure that I could use these stabilizers on the 6 way auto-level (and probable will not need them).
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04-29-2017, 02:35 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,090
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I installed the steadyfast stabilizers on my trailer, the kit came with everything needed, including a self-guiding drill bit.
Installation was simple, but drilling the holes in the frame was a little time consuming.
They make a remarkable difference, definitely DW approved.
-Brian
__________________
2014 Bullet Premier 22RBPR - let the camping commence!
2013 F150 Platinum - 5.0 - 3.55 ELD + towing package
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05-16-2017, 07:35 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Niagara Falls, NY
Posts: 79
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Update
Went out for the first time this past weekend and found that deburring the arms took care of the problem I had with one leg going up hard. Hope this may help someone else with the same problem.
Chris
__________________
2019 Jayco Pinnacle 36KPTS
2016 Sierra 3500HD CC,SRW,Diesel,long bed, factory hitch prep
Past:2012 Laredo 335TG, 2003 Cedar Creek 28LRLFS
2003 Flagstaff 25LB,1993 Terry 35V
1982 Serro Scotty 18',1976 Dutchcraft 25'
1972 Banner 18'
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