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Old 03-28-2018, 01:49 PM   #1
wiredgeorge
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Window glazing bead

Window glazing bead is the stuff that sits in a track inside your window. If your windows crank shut, this is what supplies a gasket type seal so they don't leak.

My old 2002 Cougar 5ver has windows that were made by a company called Kinro. I got this from a nice gal at Keystone named Amber. Guess who now owns Kinro? Lippert (aka LCI). Anyhow, the vinyl or rubber seals tend to deform and shrink, especially on the lower corners. This causes the seals to pop out of the track and they actually keep the window from shutting all the way. Then the window leaks (had a very hard rain storm last night).

In any case, a company called Pelland Enterprises sells replacement seals. The actual name is window glazing bead. Since my seal (bead) is so darned deformed, I could swear which one is actually the true replacment that is available on the Pelland site but they sell sample kits. I have ordered one and when it arrives I will ensure I order the correct glazing bead. At over a buck a foot, it ain't cheap as all the windows will need to be done. I "THINK!!!" the correct bead is KRV08524 on their site but that is only a guess.

I believe I will have to remove the screens and do this from the inside. The bedroom window is worst but all the others show signs of the same problem and none fit real well and thus the windows don't really seal as they should.

Will follow up when I get the seal in.
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Old 03-29-2018, 07:06 AM   #2
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Thanks for posting - this is good info to have. We had windows by the same manufacturer in our Cougar and the vinyl trim had shrunk - especially on the sunny side. I wonder if some of this "shrinkage" is because the trim is stretched slightly while being installed (maybe cut too short?).
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Old 03-29-2018, 09:12 AM   #3
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Dunno why it has shrunk but have seen this issue on a number of brands on various RV forums. Since our 5ver is 16 years old and most I have seen that are in this shape are fairly old. By the way, my bedroom window crank knob broke when I tightened it. It is a Kinro with 1/2" length part where the screw goes through. The inside has teeth that mesh with the shaft the knob fits over but the plastic is prone to cracking on older models like mine. I bought a 5 pack of replacements for about $20 on eBay.
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Old 04-05-2018, 05:26 AM   #4
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Received a "sample pack" from Pelland Enterprises. None of the samples matched my glazing trim. When I actually removed the trim from the worst window (the one pictured above), found the actual profile. The glazing trim used in our 2002 Cougar is Kinpro KrV02045. You can order it by the foot for $1.71 in white or black. I chose white and ordered 25 feet to do all the windows that are crank out type. Most have trim that is either dried out vinyl or the corners are lifting as pictured. The trim goes from upper corner to upper corner but not across the top. It is a lot easier to identify the glazing bead needed once a piece is out of the channel.
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Old 04-07-2018, 12:29 PM   #5
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Installed the new glazing bead in the window where the problem was pictured. Was a bit of a pain; one side goes into a metal edge and the other fits under and it is hard to stuff that edge under. I may try heating to soften. Today I am working on installing an electric heating element in my Suburban water heater to augment the propane.
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Old 04-07-2018, 01:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiredgeorge View Post
... Today I am working on installing an electric heating element in my Suburban water heater to augment the propane.
Keep in mind that if you're using a heating element that replaces the anode rod, you will lose your protection for the tank lining. Suburban's manuals all state not to remove the anode to install a heating element. If your water heater has the separate heating element location and you can install an OEM (or replacement element) and keep the anode rod in place, no problem.
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Old 04-10-2018, 05:31 AM   #7
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SW6DE (it gots a heating element)
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Old 04-10-2019, 06:45 PM   #8
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Saved this thread for almost a year before I ordered my KRV02045 window seal in black. I found that it was easier to install from the outside as the long edge would go to the inside and then it was easier to push and pop the outer (smaller) edge into the track. Found it was easier to install using some Dawn soap mix to lubricate the track and seal. Still was a little difficult to get seal started at the tops near the window but found I was able to snap seal in place about a inch below and then slide it up. Similar on the other end as I got close I cut it to the final length snapped the end in a inch below again and then pushed it up to the top as I pushed the remaining loop into the track.
Don’t forget to take this opportunity to use a toothbrush and the Dawn to clean the track recess as well as the inner and outer window drain holes below where the seal goes.
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