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Old 01-29-2019, 06:49 PM   #1
JimMoultrup
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Queen Bed Size Solar Ready Questions

Hi, we just purchased the 2019 Keystone Bullet 269RLS, with the 15K BTU AC upgrade, the Internal and External Camping Package, and the 30K Heat Upgrade.

I am now wanting to add solar and am looking at 300 Watts of Renogy Panels, 3 100 panels, on the "tilt mount". I am not sure if "Solar Ready" means that I only need to purchase the panels, the controller, and the mount, and not the "300K Premium Kit?"

https://www.renogy.com/renogy-new-30...r-premium-kit/

So, I am not sure what "Solar Ready" means. Can anyone explain? Should I get the kit, or just the panels, controller and mount. Can I use the "Renogy Tilt Mount" on the Bullet 269RLSWE top? What type of "Solar Plug" is on the Bullet 269RLSWE, and how long of an extension do you do to the ceiling?It is at the back, correct? Is it best to just go outside along the rear?

I just purchased the Champion 3400 Portable Dual Fuel Inverter for $765, plus tax!

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...9SIA02D6YU2368

Is 300 Watts and the 3400 Generator, the right mix?

Any other suggestions for making this a RVNOMAD worthy vehicle? Thanks, Jim
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Old 01-29-2019, 07:25 PM   #2
chuckster57
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Solar ready usually means there is a plug on the side of the trailer wired to the batteries for a portable panel. Generally about 10W.

If your goal is to boondock, then the more panels you can install, the better. I’m not a solar expert, but I’m not so sure you would need panels that tilt. Seems like you would have to constantly adjust the tilt for maximum production. We routinely install 2 170W panels with a controller on class A motorhomes. We also do the same thing on fifth wheels. There are several options to install, we often times just go through the roof, running the wires down a wall into the underbelly and route to the batteries.

As far as gensets, you will need at least 3500 watts to run the AC. There are many brands that will meet your needs so I’ll leave that up to others. We don’t boondock.
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Old 01-30-2019, 07:40 AM   #3
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Our Cougar was sold as solar ready and set up exactly as Chuckster said. A plug on the side of the trailer connected to the battery distribution block. We use a 200w portable solar kit and 3kw generator. Whole kit works fine for us and no holes drilled in the roof.
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Old 01-30-2019, 04:36 PM   #4
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Our Cougar was sold as solar ready and set up exactly as Chuckster said. A plug on the side of the trailer connected to the battery distribution block. We use a 200w portable solar kit and 3kw generator. Whole kit works fine for us and no holes drilled in the roof.

Are you saying you connect your 200w solar to the plug on the side of your rig?
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Old 01-30-2019, 05:27 PM   #5
JimMoultrup
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We just purchased the Champion 3400 Generator for $765 plus tax. Great price at NewEgg.com, but sale ends in 4 days.

I am planning on getting the Renogy 300 Watt Monocrystalline Solar Kit, but we are not sure if having the vehicle "solar ready," means that we don't need the complete kit, or if you still need the complete kit?

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocr...olar+panel+kit

Thanks for your help. Jim
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Old 01-30-2019, 05:33 PM   #6
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Like chuckster said it just means there's a plug for connecting an external solar panel. It's rated at 10 amps or about 100 watts and just connects the panel directly to the battery. The panel has to have the right plug on it to match the one on the RV. Or you can buy the plug and wire it up to any panel. Click image for larger version

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Old 01-30-2019, 05:43 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimMoultrup View Post
We just purchased the Champion 3400 Generator for $765 plus tax. Great price at NewEgg.com, but sale ends in 4 days.

I am planning on getting the Renogy 300 Watt Monocrystalline Solar Kit, but we are not sure if having the vehicle "solar ready," means that we don't need the complete kit, or if you still need the complete kit?

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocr...olar+panel+kit

Thanks for your help. Jim
Jim you need the whole kit. The one that RV is set up for is a self contained portable unit meant to be set up and just plugged in to the plug on the RV.

The one your looking at would be mounted on the roof permanently and need to be completely wired up. It would use nothing that came with the "solar ready" package.
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Old 02-01-2019, 06:48 PM   #8
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The furrion solar panels have the charge controller on the panels. If you use any other panels than come with their own controller you cannot use the furrion plug on the trailer.
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Old 02-01-2019, 07:58 PM   #9
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Jim,

First, congrats on the purchase of your new Bullet. Hope you enjoy it a very long time.

As you're planning this solar install, please remember one important thing about our Bullets...they don't have walkable roofs. That may not or may not hamper the installation process. But for regular maintenance and setup, it may create a challenge. If I was going to install a rooftop solar setup, I would want the convenience of having a roof deck strong enough to support my weight without the hassle of using plywood or foam board overlays. I would also want a factory installed roof ladder to avoid the trouble of lugging around one to adjust the tiltable panels.

Also, as the decking material is much thinner, it maybe a challenge with the installation hardware. FWIW, I've never dealt a solar install but have watched plenty of videos of those who have. All the ones I've seen have traditional "full construction" walkable roofs. YMMV.
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Old 02-04-2019, 01:35 PM   #10
JimMoultrup
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Thanks for your help. I can't seem to find out what type of plug I have on the 2019 Keystone Bullet 269RLSWE? I can't seem to find out. Nor can I find out any "recommended solar and battery set up?" Is there such a recommendation? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. I just purchased the Champion 3400 Generator, so I feel good there. But it seems the solar set up is a big question. Thanks, Jim
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Old 02-04-2019, 01:56 PM   #11
Steveo57
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Originally Posted by JimMoultrup View Post
Thanks for your help. I can't seem to find out what type of plug I have on the 2019 Keystone Bullet 269RLSWE? I can't seem to find out. Nor can I find out any "recommended solar and battery set up?" Is there such a recommendation? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. I just purchased the Champion 3400 Generator, so I feel good there. But it seems the solar set up is a big question. Thanks, Jim
Probably uses this plug if your receptacle on the trailer is a furrion. If you search on YouTube for furrion solar panel you'll find more information.

CNLINKO 2 Pin Power Industrial Circular Connector, Male Plug, Fit Furrion RV Solar Port, Outdoor Waterproof IP67, AC DC Signal, Fit Furrion, Grand Design, Forrest River RV Solar Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4RQ3X1..._AhlwCbHK9WQF9
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Old 02-10-2019, 09:07 AM   #12
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Being a solar panel dealer in my area I have a couple comments. 1) You need to call the mfr and ask them if there is a built in solar charge controller and if so, what the specs are. Voltage range, amps, etc. But since they have no display in almost every trailer I have ever seen, I am pretty confident that you will need to add a solar charge controller between the panels and the RV plug. The mfr has no idea what panels you are putting on. Otherwise you may fry your batteries. For your low wattage they are very cheap. If your panels are 12v you can use a pwm charger ($10 on ebay, they work with both 12v and 24v panels, but not as efficient with 24v). For the more efficient 24v panels you may want to get an mppt charger to make the best of your wattage. 24v panels usually give you 40-50% more wattage for size. 2) Get rid of the cheap deep cycle battery most campers come with. Either get 2 6v golf cart batteries or 1 12v golf cart battery at batteries plus. A real deep cycle 12v battery weighs 100 pounds or more and nowhere has CCA written on it. 3) The last time I figured it, 200w is the minimum you need for a camper. 4) Yes, tilting does increase your exposure, but the price and pita doesn't justify the small gain in watt hours. 5) I have heard that some people are using that red 3m tape to mount panels on their roofs without drilling holes. I have never tried it, but it sounds enticing.
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Old 02-10-2019, 02:25 PM   #13
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Jim, do not connect any solar panels to the plug on the side. When I bought my Cougar, it has the same plug on the side rated for 10 amps. Connecting solar panels to it can charge your batteries but it can also ruin them. I asked the Camping World service manager if there was a voltage controller installed and he told me NO.

It has been winter here in Utah since I bought my rig so I have not verified it but I cannot see one looking inside the storage bay. For any solar battery charger system, you must have a voltage controller with a separate 3 voltage setting for the bulk charge (~80%), final charge (near 100%) and then a trickle charge. Look at the data sheet for a Trojan T105 and it will tell you the proper voltages for each charging stage. Different batteries may have different values but you still need a controller that automatically controls the solar panel output to these three values. Good quality controllers let you set the three battery voltages. If you do not have this voltage controller, you will likely overcharge and ruin your batteries.

That plug on the side should be run more than 10 amp. Not big enough for your 300-watt system. For now, I suggest you forget it as it is nearly useless except for a small system that outputs only a trickle charge level of power.

If you are planning on a 300-watt system, you will need a high-quality voltage controller. There are two types - PWM and MCCP. You can find the PWM type on AMAZON for $15 to over $100. The PWM charge controller is lower cost and does not use power efficiently -- wasting as much as 30% of your solar panel output. If your solar panels output power near 17 to 18 volts, they may be adequate. If much higher, I would not use one.

I would recommend using an MPPT type solar controller. I used a Midnight Solar Kid 30A on my previous motorhome with a single 290 W Solar World panel with a 37-volt output. These can accommodate converting your solar panel output and deliver about 95% of your watts to the batteries. This is an excellent unit and gives you all kinds of data to make sure everything works.

I am going to put a similar solar system on my Cougar this spring and I will use a 280 Watt panel and Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT 100/30 Charge Controller. You will need to attach some output gage(s) or use your cell phone. I am going to try just using MPPT with my cell phone taking advantage of their app (Bluetooth) since I need to locate this in the storage bin. Once the system is set up, I may be satisfied with limited data. Another option for output data is Trimetric TM-2030. It gives lots of data but is a little pricy. My son used on his camper and really likes it.

Anyway, once you build your first solar system, this stuff is simple. But until you do, go slowly and learn about all of these parts and you must match up your panels to your solar controller and your batteries. Then there are other details as well.
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Old 02-10-2019, 02:48 PM   #14
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One more item to add on the subject of tilting the panels. As bbels said, it adds an extra PITA. If you can run a simple computer program, Google for a program called PVWatts. You can model your solar system with this model. Input the size of your solar array (or just use 1 meter square panel and then run the model for your latitude for winter and summer. By picking something simple, you can then see what the difference in the power generated depending on the angle to the sun and the season of the year. In the summer months, a system that allows you to tilt the panels makes very little difference. In the winter at my latitude, it makes a huge difference -- but I do not camp in the winter.

For my latitude, the power potential in the summer for a flat panel is 7.72 kW/m2/day in June and drops to 1.87 kW/M2/day in December. If you wanted to camp in December in Utah, use a tilting system. If you are camping in the south in December (Az), a tilting system makes a difference but not much.
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Old 02-10-2019, 06:39 PM   #15
SR71 Jet Mech
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Jim, as others have stated, the fusion plug on your unit is not highly rated. It CAN be used but, your charge controller will need to be between it and the batteries. As long as the panels are wired in series and not parallel your amperage will stay below the rated 10 amps (depending on the wattage of the panels. Each panel has a voltage and amperage maximum. My 150w panels are approximately 8 amps max. If I tie 20 together in series it’s still 8 amps but, the voltage goes up. The charge controller will then convert the extra voltage into higher amperage ( MPPT charger). I have two chargers and two separate arrays tied to 4 6v batteries. Check out some YouTube videos on RV solar. Takes some research so you don’t get into trouble. Ask lots of questions before you buy. Wire size, charge controller sizing, charging rates etc.
I also do not mount on the roof. This was if possible I can set up in the shade and park my panels on the ground in the sun and move them accordingly with th sun. This however takes up valuable space to transport them. But it works best for me.
Every rig and system are unique. I will say the batteries that came with your new rig won’t take much “boondocking”.
Congrats on the new rig!!

Just my $.02
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