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Old 04-06-2015, 04:29 PM   #1
Tim-Rhonda
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Baggage door T latch

Opened the drivers side baggage door today and hooked the "T" latch. 333MKS doesn't have the magnets on the drivers side because the bedroom slide is in the way. Anyways when I was reaching in the basement I felt the door drop some. So I pulled my head out and looked at the "T" latch and it had split all the way through at the center of it. Hmmmm..... bummer. Took me a nano second to realize this will be an online order from Amazon or something. I'm not even going to call the dealership and waste my time explaining. I think I'm going to look at this and see if I can add another "T" latch on the right side of the door, seems that maybe one isn't enough? Any other online RV parts sites other than Amazon?

Thanks
Tim
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Old 04-06-2015, 04:42 PM   #2
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There's a substantial list of RV suppliers and parts sources located on the forum at this link: http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=12986

If you've got an Amazon Prime account with free 2 day shipping, you probably won't find a cheaper price, unless it's your local RV parts place. They aren't "Keystone specific" and any dealership would probably have them in stock.
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Old 04-06-2015, 04:57 PM   #3
Tim-Rhonda
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
There's a substantial list of RV suppliers and parts sources located on the forum at this link: http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=12986

If you've got an Amazon Prime account with free 2 day shipping, you probably won't find a cheaper price, unless it's your local RV parts place. They aren't "Keystone specific" and any dealership would probably have them in stock.
We have Amazon prime. From what I gather they are either 4 or 6" sizes. Mine must be 6 since it holds the door at a 90 to the opening. Thanks

Tim
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:47 PM   #4
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I had the same thing happen on my 333MKS. I had to take it to the dealer for some unrelated warranty stuff. Keystone is paying to have shock absorber type arms installed on that door rather than that little plastic t bar.
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Old 04-08-2015, 04:19 AM   #5
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If this is the same type of latch as I am thinking, my buddy with the rockwood has one to hold open his main entry door. I think it lasts all of 5 minutes before someone snaps it off lol. Shock absorber arms would be the way to go imo. Due the style of his entry door, we haven't quite figured out how to fit one on his, so once in awhile he will use the latch...until it snaps off then he doesn't bother for awhile. I think he bought a few extras..
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Old 04-08-2015, 04:24 AM   #6
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They make metal T door holders.. here is an example.. http://www.rvplus.com/rv-designer-co...FcKHaQodvKkAGg
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Old 04-08-2015, 04:38 AM   #7
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They make metal T door holders.. here is an example.. http://www.rvplus.com/rv-designer-co...FcKHaQodvKkAGg
Thanks Javi! I will recommend this to him.
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Old 04-08-2015, 05:49 AM   #8
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Metal T door holders are stronger and will last much longer without damage, but keep in mind that the "weakest link" is where the damage will occur. The plastic holders are specifically designed to prevent damage to the door itself.

With the metal holders, the next weakest link then usually becomes the actual door, so when someone pulls on the "door being held open", the usual occurrence is for the screws to pull out of the door frame. After a couple of "upsizing screws" to reattach the door holder, the next repair is to either patch the door (unsightly) or replace the door.

So, weigh all the options and decide whether or not you want to protect your door and keep replacing the "weakest link" or if you want to transfer the damage to another part of the mechanism. Sometimes the solution can become the problem very easily if you don't think the entire process through.....
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Old 04-08-2015, 05:50 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Javi View Post
They make metal T door holders.. here is an example.. http://www.rvplus.com/rv-designer-co...FcKHaQodvKkAGg
I am on my third one just a small bump and they are gone. I think more fragile after the sun's UV beats on them. My opinion these doors are too heavy for them. Tried both 6" plastic ones: the hinged on the bottom and the ball on the bottom. After a while the force had pulled the ball out of the socket on one of them. I am back the trying another brand of the BALL type .

As far as metal I have not found any that I could get to fit it the same holes. Because of the slide this door has to be at most 90 degrees from the side of the coach. If you notice the picture in the reference link the hinge point of the metal one is more toward the middle whereas the plastic 6" versions are toward the bottom of the bracket. Again did not want to drill new holes. Think though if you move rig metal bracket down and drill new holes it may work and old will need to be covered. My guess the difference is about 1/2-5/8"

Let me know if you fine anything else or another way to mount something?


EDIT: Clarification the 6" wand hangs from the center on the metal bracket and from near the bottom on the plastic versions (difference around 1/2-5/8"). Given the same mounting holes when you try and latch the metal one the door will hit slide first. Or if you latch it and then open the slide OOPS
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Old 04-08-2015, 06:19 AM   #10
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Sorry I posted the metal one, now I feel like an idiot.. To be honest, I've never had a problem with the plastic one. We have no children who get into or around any of our doors that have the plastic stops. And as for the side door on my 333MKS.. the only time I'm in that door is to use the dump valve handles or the level up system..
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Old 04-08-2015, 06:58 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Metal T door holders are stronger and will last much longer without damage, but keep in mind that the "weakest link" is where the damage will occur. The plastic holders are specifically designed to prevent damage to the door itself.

With the metal holders, the next weakest link then usually becomes the actual door, so when someone pulls on the "door being held open", the usual occurrence is for the screws to pull out of the door frame. After a couple of "upsizing screws" to reattach the door holder, the next repair is to either patch the door (unsightly) or replace the door.

So, weigh all the options and decide whether or not you want to protect your door and keep replacing the "weakest link" or if you want to transfer the damage to another part of the mechanism. Sometimes the solution can become the problem very easily if you don't think the entire process through.....
I've thought of this too, but thanks for the refresh. Really its up to him, and I'll remind him if he decides wants to go this route. He really likes the way our shock absorber works on our door (though I know some don't like the 90 degree thing), but aside from replacing his door and who knows what else, there didn't seem to be a great way to attach it.

We also haven't spent that much time working on it lol, just one of those camping in the backyard type of mods that come up now and again. Just one of those things...maybe it would work because you would feel that tension and stop pulling soon enough...or maybe you rip a hole in the wall.

Maybe we need to work up some kind of spring loaded deal that would allow you to pull...realize it was connected and then be able to stop before breaking.
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