Want to add winterizer kit to 337FLS

msp2jxr · 09-29-2014, 01:21 PM

Wondering if anyone has already installed a winterizing kit on a 2015 Cougar 337FLS? Just trying to get some ideas and what I would need to install it. I got the kit from Amazon but was wondering if would need elbows and tees, extra hose to install it. I don't want to take everything apart eveytime I need to winterize the trailer. Thanks for the great fourm....

**JRTJH** · 09-29-2014, 02:39 PM

If the kit you bought is a CAMCO winterizing kit, it works with a Surflo pump, but not with a Flojet pump. Usually Cougar installs Flojet pumps with the push/pull locking tabs on the pump fittings. If that is the type of pump you have, then the kit is likely the wrong one.

Do you know the type of pump you have and where it's located? Posting that information may give members a better insight into what you need to do what you're wanting to do.....

SkiSmuggs · 10-01-2014, 05:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

If the kit you bought is a CAMCO winterizing kit, it works with a Surflo pump, but not with a Flojet pump. Usually Cougar installs Flojet pumps with the push/pull locking tabs on the pump fittings. If that is the type of pump you have, then the kit is likely the wrong one.

Do you know the type of pump you have and where it's located? Posting that information may give members a better insight into what you need to do what you're wanting to do.....

Good info here! I tried to install the kit my first winter and couldn't make it work because of the Flojet. I ended up dumping 2 gallons of anti-freeze in the fresh tank to pump it through the systems and flushing in the spring. I hated the noise of the Flojet and replaced it this spring with a Surflo Revolution that is WAY quieter. I will use the Camco kit with that.

Bluewater · 10-01-2014, 06:47 AM

You would think a 2012 model would come with the HW bypass and the valve and hose to insert in the antifreeze jug?? My 2011 model did.

Bill & Deb · 10-01-2014, 07:18 AM

A trick I used to test my freeze guard system that was defective and had been repaired this summer under warranty. I got a large 2 gallon bucket filled with water and put blue food coloring in it. This way I know where the water is going and don't waste anti freeze. The food coloring is harmless and is dissipated very quickly.

SkiSmuggs · 10-01-2014, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill & Deb

A trick I used to test my freeze guard system that was defective and had been repaired this summer under warranty. I got a large 2 gallon bucket filled with water and put blue food coloring in it. This way I know where the water is going and don't waste anti freeze. The food coloring is harmless and is dissipated very quickly.

Yellow food coloring could have been good for a laugh.

msp2jxr · 10-02-2014, 01:44 PM

I haven't taken down the wall yet to see the pump so I am not sure what manufactor made the pump. I know I don't want to take down a a wall every time I winterize the the tailer. I just thought maybe somebody ahead of me already did this and may know what is needed ahead of time so I will be prepared when I do install it which in MN will be shortly.

AGYOUNG · 11-17-2014, 07:31 PM

I've been trying to figure out where is the water pump. Since we got hit with a early freeze in Minnesota and I have not winterized yet. I'm brand new to RVing so dumb mistakes are expected.

I have heard of a product called Liqui Fire that allegedly will defrost the water lines long enough so I can get it winterized.

Im pretty skilled with tools so I'm not afraid to get into it. Any advice is welcomed.

Thanks in advance.

Al

**chuckster57** · 11-17-2014, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AGYOUNG

I've been trying to figure out where is the water pump.

It can be in a number of places. Easiest way is to have some water in the fresh tank, and then just turn on the pump, open a faucet and follow the noise. Most likely behind a panel, or in some cases, under a step on the side of the master bed.

You'll need a Roberts head #2 (square head) screwdriver to remove the access panel. Most new trailers will have a winterizing valve and short length of hose attached to the inlet side of the pump. If that's the case with yours then the kit isn't needed.

AGYOUNG · 11-17-2014, 08:33 PM

As soon as I thaw out everything I'll try that.

BTW I also have a Thin Blue Line on the back of my trailer. Retired Military.Same field.

Bowti · 11-19-2014, 06:14 AM

If you do have the Flojet, you can go to just about any RV dealer and buy a fitting and hose to make your own kit.

Disconnect the fitting and line to the pump from your on board water tank and replace it with your newly purchased fitting and hose, which should be long enough to place into a gallon anti freeze jug. Turn on your pump and start winterizing.

I have never used my on board water tank, as every place we have ever camped has had a city water supply. So I have never disconnected the winterizing hose from the pump. Works for me.

**JRTJH** · 11-19-2014, 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bowti

If you do have the Flojet, you can go to just about any RV dealer and buy a fitting and hose to make your own kit.

Disconnect the fitting and line to the pump from your on board water tank and replace it with your newly purchased fitting and hose, which should be long enough to place into a gallon anti freeze jug. Turn on your pump and start winterizing.

I have never used my on board water tank, as every place we have ever camped has had a city water supply. So I have never disconnected the winterizing hose from the pump. Works for me.

Bill,

As long as the one way valve in your water pump head works, leaving an open ended hose connected to the pump is OK. But if that valve starts leaking, you can flood the inside of your trailer fairly quickly. The damage may not be noticed until it's too late. We've got a number of reports of people who notice water flowing out of their fresh water tank vent on the side of their RV. When troubleshooting, they found that the city water connection was backflowing through the water pump and into the tank, filling it to overflowing. Having an open hose connected to that fitting may spell disaster if that little back flow valve ever fails......

Bowti · 11-19-2014, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Bill,

As long as the one way valve in your water pump head works, leaving an open ended hose connected to the pump is OK. But if that valve starts leaking, you can flood the inside of your trailer fairly quickly. The damage may not be noticed until it's too late. We've got a number of reports of people who notice water flowing out of their fresh water tank vent on the side of their RV. When troubleshooting, they found that the city water connection was backflowing through the water pump and into the tank, filling it to overflowing. Having an open hose connected to that fitting may spell disaster if that little back flow valve ever fails......

John, Thank you , that is very good information to know. I will make sure the hose opening stays below the trailer, in case the valve ever fails.

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