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12-30-2013, 10:11 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Santa Maria, CA
Posts: 2
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Heater shuts off after 45 seconds
I have a 09 RP3712. The heater turns on and then shuts off after running for about 45 seconds with no heat. Any ideas?
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12-30-2013, 10:13 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fraser Valley BC Canada
Posts: 7,015
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If your thermostat is not set to AUTO, try changing the setting to that and see if the furnace will continue to run.
__________________
2008 Cougar 5th Wheel 27RKS
2005 2500 GMC Duramax
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12-30-2013, 10:58 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Santa Maria, CA
Posts: 2
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It does the samething in both settings
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12-31-2013, 03:35 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central San Joaguin Valley, CA
Posts: 2,117
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When the thermostat calls for heat, the fan will run during the ignition cycle.
If the furnace fails to light (no propane, dirty igniter, etc.) then the fan will shut off. You might check your furnace manual to see if there is a troubleshooting guide. You have to have 12V and propane. Good luck and let us know what you learn (helps all of us)
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Jack & Marty
2018 Laredo 298 SRL
2011 F-250 SB Crew Cab 4x4 6.7L
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12-31-2013, 06:31 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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as jsmith948 just stated, the furnace ignition cycle is composed of a 15 second "clearing fan cycle" which pushes any existing air out of the burner box and furnace, then after that, the igniter will spark to start a flame, if no flame is detected, it will cycle again two more times. After the third cycle, (about 45 seconds of fan operation) the control board will turn off the ignition sequence as a "failed ignition".
You could simply be out of propane, or have a "pigtail flow restrictor that activated. Turn off your propane tanks, disconnect both pigtails, let them sit for a minute, then reconnect and turn the propane bottles back on VERY SLOWLY until the knobs are fully open and snug. Try the furnace, if that doesn't work be sure you have adequate propane flow by turning on the hot water heater. The furnace and HWH are the only two appliances that use large amounts of propane. The stovetop burners will almost always work even if the regulator/flow limiting devices are activated. If the HWH won't work, it's a propane supply problem with the regulator or pigtail flow limiters. If the HWH does ignite and work properly, then:
This failure can be lack of spark at the electrodes, carbon buildup at the electrodes, low voltage that fails to produce a spark, mechanical separation of the electrodes so the spark can not jump the gap, propane solenoid not opening to provide propane, bad control board, loose electrical connections, or a bad fuse in the electrical converter box.
Get the model number and brand of your furnace, go online at the manufacturer's website and download the manual (sometimes the original manual has been updated with new information). In the manual, you will find a troubleshooting guide. It is arranged with the most likely failure first and goes through the troubleshooting steps sequentially. Run the troubleshooting guide and you will find the problem. I'd guess it's carbon fouling on the ignition electrodes, but you'll fix it if you run the troubleshooting guide.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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12-31-2013, 07:47 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Mishawaka, Indiana
Posts: 238
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I have had a similar issue twice in the many years I've camped.
1) The first time this occurred, the igniter had failed and needed replaced. It was easy to tell it was failing because it was not making that distinctive "clicking" sound that an igniter makes.
2) The second time this occurred, they found a toasted spider inside that was causing a false read on some sensor (or something like that).
Good luck...
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Roger and Dawn
Mishawaka, Indiana
2013 Cougar 280RLS / 2012 Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison
2001 Wrangler (Moab Rock Crawler) / 2008 Can Am Outlander 400 4x4
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12-31-2013, 08:37 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Spokane, Washington
Posts: 368
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Our furnace did that once and found the cause was low 12v supply.
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12-31-2013, 05:17 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Ma-Me-O Beach, Alberta
Posts: 81
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WOW, so many basic operational parameters and requirements to keep us safe and warm! We had the same issue and chased it for several very cold days and colder nights. Out situation was due to a faulty regulator and very plugged up propane lines - apparently from the oils used to stinkify the LPG. JRTJH has given some very good advise above that should help you nail down the culprit to your problem with the furnace.
Cheers and Happy New Year!
Mike
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Regretfully SOLD as not enough truck for our new to us RV 1999 Dodge RAM 2500 SLT
Acquired 2017/05/05 - 2012 F350 Lariat CC SRW,
RV - 2008 Fleetwood REGAL 325RKS
Carol, My wonderful wife of 41 years
Kenzie Schweenie Tod, our furry faced Shih 't n Dash
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01-01-2014, 03:59 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Alberta
Posts: 34
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Quote:
oils used to stinkify the LPG
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Mercaptin is used to "stinkify" LPG, its a liquid not an oil, very little is require to give LPG or natural gas that "rotten egg" smell.(talking ounces of mercaptin to thousands of cubic feet of gas) The propane was most likely "wet" right from the production side, wet with TEG, Triethelene glycol, chemical used to absorb water from NGLs. May have been a carry over from the contact tower to the LPG bullet which would have an "oily" feel to it. Or your propane may have been contaminated with anhydrous ammonia as the delivery trucks can haul both products by just simply changing the delivery valving.
OP - as suggested problem may be low voltage, dirty igniter, debris in the pilot or plugged lines.
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2013 Ram CC 3500 4X4
2014 Keystone Copper Canyon
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01-06-2014, 07:19 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Great Falls, MT
Posts: 322
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Sometimes, and an easy cheap temporary fix can be the igniter. They usually only last a certain period of time. It could be corroded, and can be cleaned using emery cloth or fine sand paper to clean the igniter. Once you use this method it will corrode again and quicker, so be on the look out for a new one. Buy 2 and keep one as a spare!
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2016 Alpine 3601RS
6500 Onan
2016 Chevrolet 2500 LTZ/Z71
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01-06-2014, 09:11 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: North Texas
Posts: 1,000
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Here's an easy test: Light a stove burner, turn it up to high. Turn up the thermostat to cause the furnace to "come on". As JRTRH stated, the furnace will start with a "clearing" cycle. Now, watch the stove. After this 15 second clearing cycle, the propane will be introduced to the furnace. If the stove burner "goes out", you have propane problem. Check if the tanks are filled, the pigtails are not restricting flow, the regulator is rated for high flow, etc. If the stove burner stays on, then start thinking about the furnace ignitor, sail switch, etc.
DW and I helped an older lady last night with furnace problems when it was 55F in her Everest and 23F outside. Her furnace acted in the same way as the OP. Additionally, her propane detector would flash but not alarm. It was an easy fix - both of her propane tanks were closed - just turn the valves slowly to the left to open the tanks! When we left, the inside of her Everest was at 65F and her propane alarm was "green" (no gas detected). It was the slight about of propane released but not ignited in the furnace that caused her propane alarm to "give a warning".
Ron
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2011 Alpine 3640RL (Beauty)
(Gone! Now replaced by Beauty3)
2016 Ford F-450 (The Beast)
Diesel 4x4, DRW, LB, CC
Comfort Ride Hitch
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