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07-12-2019, 11:34 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Montgomery
Posts: 47
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Another slide out thread
My wife went out to put stuff in our 5th wheel. When I parked it last, I dropped it off the hitch with the nose about 1.5-2 feet higher than the tail.
She extended the slideouts but the larger rear slide did not go out all the way. It was 7 inches shy. If fully retracted both slides.
Is this simply a trailer out of level issue or is it something else I am going to have to figure out?
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Orthodox Christian|MGNOC|ARRL|Purdue Boilermaker|NRA|GOA
2016 F-350 6.7
2007 Copper Canyon 329FWSAS
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07-12-2019, 04:38 PM
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#2
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Site Team | Emeritus
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,878
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You shouldn't put your slides out unless you are fairly level. I'd bring them back in, relevel and start over.
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Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Impact 312
2017 Silverado 3500HD SRW
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07-17-2019, 08:17 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Montgomery
Posts: 47
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I leveled the trailer and we extended the slide, it is still coming up short of a full extension. I tried just leaning on one post and it did go out another 3 inches but its still about 4 inches short
__________________
Orthodox Christian|MGNOC|ARRL|Purdue Boilermaker|NRA|GOA
2016 F-350 6.7
2007 Copper Canyon 329FWSAS
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07-17-2019, 08:43 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Montgomery
Posts: 47
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It appears to be a "random" problem. One time it will go all the way out, retract it and the next its 7 inches short, retract again and its 3 inches short.
__________________
Orthodox Christian|MGNOC|ARRL|Purdue Boilermaker|NRA|GOA
2016 F-350 6.7
2007 Copper Canyon 329FWSAS
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07-17-2019, 08:53 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,846
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It sounds like the pulley/cable system is not properly adjusted and the slide "randomly" leans to one side or the other causing it to bind when it catches and twists out of position. I'd think that you'll need to do a complete inspection of all the seals and wear strips to make sure they are intact and not causing or adding to the problem, then adjust the cable runs to specs (which also means realigning/centering the slide in the opening). Once done, then watch as the slide goes out to see if there's any indication of a component (something/anything) that's out of position or putting stress/pressure on the slide box, causing it to move out of alignment.
Yeah, I know that sounds like a lot of "gobbledygook" but at this point, without knowing "what part is causing the problem" I think it would be best and probably easiest to start at step #1 and inspect/realign the entire slide mechanism.
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John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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07-17-2019, 08:58 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Montgomery
Posts: 47
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Old saying you get what you pay for I am learning alot in the process.
The hydraulic tank is about an inch low after reading where it should be. There was no lid on the tank but I now know where the piece I found in the basement goes to that was there when I found it. It is the hydraulic lid. I am going to fill it back up and put the lid on.
I am not sure if air in the system could cause the problem but Lippert says cycling it in and out will purge the air. If that doesn't work, then it's on to your suggestions.
__________________
Orthodox Christian|MGNOC|ARRL|Purdue Boilermaker|NRA|GOA
2016 F-350 6.7
2007 Copper Canyon 329FWSAS
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07-17-2019, 11:38 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foszoe
Old saying you get what you pay for I am learning alot in the process.
The hydraulic tank is about an inch low after reading where it should be. There was no lid on the tank but I now know where the piece I found in the basement goes to that was there when I found it. It is the hydraulic lid. I am going to fill it back up and put the lid on.
I am not sure if air in the system could cause the problem but Lippert says cycling it in and out will purge the air. If that doesn't work, then it's on to your suggestions.
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Be sure all slides & jacks that are hydraulic are in retract position before adding fluid (fill to 1/4-1/2" from the top of reservoir opening) or once they're retracted you'll have a big mess when it overflows.
__________________
Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
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07-17-2019, 12:58 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mountain Home, Idaho
Posts: 2,977
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If this is an all hydraulic slide out system then after you properly fill hyd reservoir with correct fluid.... could either be AW32 or ATF...DONT mix I would bleed system
Pause between cycles to let pump motor cool
If problem is still persisting Id crawl under the slide that’s having issues and take a good look at both gear packs.
Verify teeth are all in good condition on follower track and gear cog
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2007 GMC Classic club cab 4x4 Duramax LBZ
2014 Alpine 3010 RE. 34 foot fifth wheel
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07-17-2019, 02:03 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Montgomery
Posts: 47
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As an update.
I did as Chuck S suggested, I ran them out and back in then out and let it set for 3 0 min. After filling it, it went out and back in then out fine.
Haven't tested it again but will.
__________________
Orthodox Christian|MGNOC|ARRL|Purdue Boilermaker|NRA|GOA
2016 F-350 6.7
2007 Copper Canyon 329FWSAS
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07-17-2019, 03:12 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mountain Home, Idaho
Posts: 2,977
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Also if you haven’t cleaned and lubed your gear packs for each hydraulic slide ... 2 per hyd slideout it will make them quieter, smoother, and faster ...
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2007 GMC Classic club cab 4x4 Duramax LBZ
2014 Alpine 3010 RE. 34 foot fifth wheel
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07-19-2019, 04:15 AM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Montgomery
Posts: 47
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That is next up on my agenda. I have heard some occasional sqeaks. Also wondering if people spray anything on the rubber seals to extend their life?
__________________
Orthodox Christian|MGNOC|ARRL|Purdue Boilermaker|NRA|GOA
2016 F-350 6.7
2007 Copper Canyon 329FWSAS
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07-19-2019, 08:15 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foszoe
That is next up on my agenda. I have heard some occasional sqeaks. Also wondering if people spray anything on the rubber seals to extend their life?
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Factory techs recommended & use Pledge furniture polish (the cheap dollar store imitation works just as well) on all rubber seals throughout the RV. Spray it on a rag & wipe all around the seal, dirt won't stick to it & cheaper than RV slide seal conditioner, been using it for the last 6-7 years & seals look new.
__________________
Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
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07-25-2019, 04:49 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 21
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When you run your slides in and out, it doesn't hurt for it to "click" or grind a couple of times, as much as people hate to hear it, it is part of what makes your slide out systems stay in sync on both sides of each slide out. Be very careful about "adjusting" your slides, if you don't know how to do it, it can make matters worse. If you aren't certain or comfortable, take it to an RV service center where they will make sure that it is properly aligned up, down, left, right and diagonally. It is a lot cheaper to take it in and get it fixed then to have someone come out and fix it where you are located.
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07-25-2019, 08:28 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
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Actually mobile technicians may be cheaper, faster & do better quality work as their business depends on it. To me even if it cost a bit more it's better than it sitting behind some dealership for several months waiting it's turn all the while your payments haven't stopped.
__________________
Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
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