Slide won't stay shut

Bebo · 01-14-2017, 06:40 AM

2014 Avalanche 355RK 5th wheel, single owner, well cared for. Stored on level surface. ISSUE: front bedroom slide won't stay shut. While stored bottom of slide opens 1-2" after about a week. I repeatedly close slide, have even tried closing valve after closing turning that slide off. I store with all power disconnected. THOUGHTS???
THANKS in advance

**JRTJH** · 01-14-2017, 06:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bebo

2014 Avalanche 355RK 5th wheel, single owner, well cared for. Stored on level surface. ISSUE: front bedroom slide won't stay shut. While stored bottom of slide opens 1-2" after about a week. I repeatedly close slide, have even tried closing valve after closing turning that slide off. I store with all power disconnected. THOUGHTS???
THANKS in advance

I'd guess a solenoid in the hydraulic system allowing the hydraulic fluid to "leak back" which would let the hydraulic ram extend or a leaking O-ring in the hydraulic ram.

In the interim, it may help to jack that side of the trailer up a bit (so gravity helps keep the slide drifting in rather than out) Or, if you really want it to be secure, cut two 2x4" boards to length and slip them in place behind the slide at floor level ???

If you do identify the component that's leaking, any local tractor dealership is well versed in repairing hydraulic systems and probably has parts on hand or can rebuild the current part with much less expense than an RV dealer. But, you may need to take the parts in for them to work on it as many tractor dealers don't have space to park an RV and/or don't want to work on something that's not a tractor (but will work on a component)

Bebo · 01-14-2017, 07:06 AM

Thanks, a leaking o-ring...thinking leak with fluid staying in the system or leak as in losing fluid....gonna Mark levels on reservoir tank...see if that changes at all.

**JRTJH** · 01-14-2017, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bebo

Thanks, a leaking o-ring...thinking leak with fluid staying in the system or leak as in losing fluid....gonna Mark levels on reservoir tank...see if that changes at all.

The fluid level in the tank may remain the same IF the fluid is leaking past an O-ring inside the ram actuator. It would not return to the reservoir in that situation, it would simply "leak" past the defective O-ring into the other side of the actuator ram assembly.

Since you stated that you turned the valve to that slide off, I'd guess (only a SWAG) that it's inside the actuator ram, not back at the distribution plumbing.

**chuckster57** · 01-14-2017, 12:56 PM

First suspect in these issues is the solenoid at the manifold. Leaking O rings at the ram is not nearly as common as a failed solenoid.

Dmax11Avalanche · 01-14-2017, 06:18 PM

My 2011 avalanche has the same exact problem. I have replaced the bedroom hydraulic cylinder but that did not fix my issue. I too have to turn off the valves at the manifold. That slows the creep out down but it doesn't completely stop it. Funny thing is if I only turn off the bedroom slide the curbside slide creeps out. I have to turn all 3 slide valves off when I travel. Still it only slows down the creeping out of the slides. I have no fluid loss. Been having this problem for a couple years. Even replaced all 3 hydraulic shutoff stems. No help. What does this solenoid look like that you mentioned chuckster.

**chuckster57** · 01-14-2017, 06:46 PM

I don't have a picture, but if you locate the block at the pump where all the lines attach, the solenoids will have electrical connections. Some look like a sleeve with 2 wires.

Dmax11Avalanche · 01-14-2017, 06:59 PM

Assuming there is more than one any way to trouble shoot and find the bad one. Is this solenoid like the old ford Starter solenoid under the hood. Dealer item or local auto parts store?

**chuckster57** · 01-14-2017, 07:06 PM

Doesn't look anything like an old starter solenoid. RV parts store item.

Dmax11Avalanche · 01-14-2017, 07:17 PM

I will change this and see if it fixes my problem. Thanks for your help. Have fought this problem a long time never figured an electrical part could cause slide creep. Just do not fully understand how this could cause slide creep. I guess it stays energized and keeps the pump locked stationary? I will definitely look at this closer tomorrow and order parts. Thanks again .

**chuckster57** · 01-14-2017, 07:29 PM

As I understand it, when the solenoid is energized, it opens the flow of fluid. The solenoids I have seen use Voltage to energize a magnet which "pulls" a rod or other type of valve to allow flow and when voltage is taken away, the valve closes.

In some cases, the "solenoid" is internal and in others it's the "collar" around the valve. I may have stated the issue too broadly as we change the entire assembly if it's the collar type. Internal type requires a complete assembly change.

Most of the failures I have seen are either O rings, or failure of the valve to "seat".

Dmax11Avalanche · 01-14-2017, 07:37 PM

I understand what you are saying. Just wanted to make sure I was on the same page. Definitely not the pump motor solenoid, looking for a solenoid threaded into the assembly itself probably near or on the distribution block. Thanks again for all your help. Hoping to not have to replace the complete pump as that would be a costly project.

**chuckster57** · 01-14-2017, 07:53 PM

Can't say I've seen a pump be the problem in any of the slide creep problems.

xrated · 01-15-2017, 05:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dmax11Avalanche

I will change this and see if it fixes my problem. Thanks for your help. Have fought this problem a long time never figured an electrical part could cause slide creep. Just do not fully understand how this could cause slide creep. I guess it stays energized and keeps the pump locked stationary? I will definitely look at this closer tomorrow and order parts. Thanks again .

Compare the solenoid valve to a leaky kitchen faucet......except that the solenoid valve is at a much higher pressure and operated electrically. You turn the kitchen faucet off manually, yet it still drips.....the internals in the faucet are not functioning properly to stop the flow of water. In a hydraulic solenoid system, most of the time they are electrically energized to do whatever work they are intended to do. When they are de-energized, the slide inside the solenoid returns to the "seat" position and stops the flow of hydraulic fluid. With a solenoid valve that is malfunctioning, the slide inside the unit is not completely returning to seat and stop the flow of fluid......just like a kitchen faucet that drips. Sometimes it is an internal "o" ring that has simply worn out, sometimes a tiny bit of debris that is in the hydraulic oil will find it's way to the seat/slide area, and sometimes, the valve body is worn to the point that the o ring/seat is never going to completely stop the flow. This last scenario is less likely unless the hydraulic system has years and years of use, or was a cheaply made (read inferior material) solenoid valve. Hope this helps.

Dmax11Avalanche · 01-15-2017, 07:02 AM

Dmax11Avalanche · 01-15-2017, 07:07 AM

I checked my hydraulic pump this morning and it has no solenoid that I can see other than the motor solenoid. I'm not sure how to post a picture but I did add one to my album in my profile. It has a large bolt inline with the inlet and outlet sections on the cast part on each side of the manifold. Identical on each side. Should I remove these and look for bad o rings?

bsmith0404 · 01-15-2017, 07:48 AM

I have had a similar problem with mine in the past, but only during cold weather. I once put all of the slides in and hooked up to the truck. By the time I got the landing gear retracted, the bedroom slide had opened about 4 inches. I put the slide back in and it seemed t hold. Later in the day I noticed a little creep, but only about 1/2". Then when I was unhitching, the slide came out a bit again. I took it into the dealer, they couldn't find anything wrong. Then I noticed the label on the control panel.....at cold temperatures (below 32degree if I remember correctly) the hydraulic system can experience some erratic symptoms (paraphrasing). The day the 5er was at the dealership being checked, it was in the mid 50s. The days I noticed problems it was in the low 30s-high 20s.

I had also called Lippert and they suggested that it was possible that a small piece of debris could have gotten into the solenoid and just cleared itself out through normal use. Either way, I haven't had a problem since. Not sure if your experiences are the same, but something to consider.

Dmax11Avalanche · 01-15-2017, 08:00 AM

Definitely not the same. Mine will creep year round. 8-10 inches in a days time. What do you guys think about installing hydraulic check valves on the return line to the pump and between the distribution manifold and the pump?

**JRTJH** · 01-15-2017, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dmax11Avalanche

... What do you guys think about installing hydraulic check valves on the return line to the pump and between the distribution manifold and the pump?

If I were you, I'd identify the problem, not modify the system by attempting to add parts until a solution is achieved.... If your problem is a solenoid or a leak "OUTSIDE" the ram actuator, you may solve it temporarily with check valves, but if the problem is a leak "INSIDE" the ram actuator, you'll just be "splicing in additional places for leaks in the rest of your system" and the leaking ram will continue to allow the slide to creep..... Also, if there is a leaking solenoid and you "mask the problem" with a "workaround solution" and then the solenoid stops functioning, you'll be stranded somewhere with a bad component that stops you from moving. Usually an indication of a problem is a "warning sign" of things to come. Often times, "fixing it with a workaround" is not the same as "repairing the component that is causing problem"....

I'd urge against modifying the system until you know what's already malfunctioning......

Dmax11Avalanche · 01-15-2017, 09:20 AM

Thanks,I have tested the cylinders per lipperts instructions and they all check ok. I do not have any external leaks either. I will pull the pump and disassemble and clean,replace all o rings I can find. As far as I can see no solenoids on this unit. I have searched the web all morning for a replacement part for the cast piece in front of the motor( whatever it's called) and the best I can tell it only comes as a complete unit. Very expensive. Check valves may become a viable option and should work to take the place of a solenoid as they will allow fluid to flow in each direction per each of the two ports but won't allow back flow aka slide creep.

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