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Old 11-04-2018, 03:08 PM   #1
farmergeoff2003
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Water pump & heater bypass in 2010 Springdale 27 RBSSR

I am a RV newbie and heading into my first winter. I understand that there may not be a bypass but I cannot locate the location of the water heater or the water pump, to check for the bypass and if there is water pump adapter to pump in the antifreeze using the onboard water pump. Thank you!
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Old 11-04-2018, 04:15 PM   #2
chuckster57
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Welcome to th forum

Your water heater bypass will be on the back side of the water heater tank. Once you locate it outside, then go inside and find the same spot. You may have to remove a panel or drawer to access the back. Once there if you can describe the number of valves it will be real easy to tell you how to bypass it.

Turn on the water pump, open a faucet and just follow the noise. I do it that way all the time on new units when I’m not sure where it is.
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Old 11-04-2018, 04:45 PM   #3
shermris
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My water pump is in the front of the trailer behind a wooden panel that has to be removed to provide access. Like others have stated just follow the sound and you should be able to locate it. Some units come with an adapter valve that will allow you to pump RV antifreeze throughout your system. Mine didn't have one so I installed an after market anti-freeze valve. The other option is to winterize using a hand pump through the city water supply supply point. My water heater is on the opposite end. Just look for a place that would be where the back of your water heater is. Mine was behind the area where my electrical hook up cord is stored when not in use. I had to remove a panel and reach through about a 5" hole. You will likely want a flashlight. If there is no bypass valve you will need extra anti-freeze because you will need to fill the water heater before you can get antifreeze through your hot water lines. This could be and extra 5 gallons, (or more), of anti-freeze. I've talked to a few people who only blow out their water lines, I've never been comfortable using air alone. Damaged water lines are difficult and or expensive to change and you may not realize there is a problem until you have water running somewhere you don't want it. Make sure you remove the plug on the bottom of the water heater after you by pass it. Depending on the size of your tank there will be 5 to 10 gallons of water in the tank.
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Old 11-04-2018, 04:59 PM   #4
66joej
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[QUOTE=shermris;314166]My water pump is in the front of the trailer behind a wooden panel that has to be removed to provide access. Like others have stated just follow the sound and you should be able to locate it. Some units come with an adapter valve that will allow you to pump RV antifreeze throughout your system. Mine didn't have one so I installed an after market anti-freeze valve. The other option is to winterize using a hand pump through the city water supply supply point. My water heater is on the opposite end. Just look for a place that would be where the back of your water heater is. Mine was behind the area where my electrical hook up cord is stored when not in use. I had to remove a panel and reach through about a 5" hole. You will likely want a flashlight. If there is no bypass valve you will need extra anti-freeze because you will need to fill the water heater before you can get antifreeze through your hot water lines. This could be and extra 5 gallons, (or more), of anti-freeze. I've talked to a few people who only blow out their water lines, I've never been comfortable using air alone. Damaged water lines are difficult and or expensive to change and you may not realize there is a problem until you have water running somewhere you don't want it. Make sure you remove the plug on the bottom of the water heater after you by pass it. Depending on the size of your tank there will be 5 to 10 gallons of water in the tank.[/QUOTE

Not 100% sure but I believe almost all RVs have a bypass system on the water heater. You will have others advising you to not put antifreeze in your water heater. YMMV
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Old 11-04-2018, 05:10 PM   #5
shermris
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If you don't have a by pass how would you keep anti-freeze out of the water heater? Anti-freeze won't harm the water heater in any way, you just need to flush the tank well in the spring. Most newer units do have bypass valves, however even my manual stated "if your unit is equipped with a bypass valve", and there are some units that do not provide a bypass. Bypass systems also vary some have one valve, some have more.
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Old 11-04-2018, 05:21 PM   #6
chuckster57
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Can’t say I’ve seen an RV yet without a bypass on the water heater.
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Old 11-05-2018, 07:16 AM   #7
JRTJH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shermris View Post
If you don't have a by pass how would you keep anti-freeze out of the water heater? Anti-freeze won't harm the water heater in any way, you just need to flush the tank well in the spring. Most newer units do have bypass valves, however even my manual stated "if your unit is equipped with a bypass valve", and there are some units that do not provide a bypass. Bypass systems also vary some have one valve, some have more.
Not to be argumentative, but this is directly from the Suburban Water Heater Owner's Manual:

"WINTERIZING
If your water heater plumbing system is equipped with a bypass kit, use it to
close off the water heater, drain the water heater completely and leave the
water heater closed off (out of the system) in the bypass position particularly
if you are introducing antifreeze into the plumbing system. Antifreeze can be
very corrosive to the anode rod creating premature failure and heavy sediment
in the tank. If the plumbing system is not equipped with a bypass kit, and you
intend to winterize by adding antifreeze to the system, remove the anode rod
(storing it for the winter) and replace it with a 3/4" drain plug."


While RV antifreeze "may not" be harmful to the water heater, and that is questionable since the tank will begin to corrode if the anode is consumed by antifreeze during winter storage, and if you replace the anode with a plug during storage, there is no anode protection for the tank lining, it does produce a problem by destroying the anode rod. If you're going to "fill the water heater with antifreeze (rather than use the bypass valve) Suburban instructs to remove the anode and replace it with a 3/4" plug to prevent the corrosion problems from the antifreeze. What happens to the tank lining that is not protected by anode action during storage (with the anode removed and replaced by a plug)?
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