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Old 12-29-2016, 03:33 PM   #1
L0veless
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newbe, no running lights

Ok, electrical is not my strong suite. I can build a house but don't get me near a multimeter.
I have a new 2016 ram 3500 , brought home a new 2016 montana 3720rl.
everything worked great bringing it home.
packed all day, tonight we hooked up to leave and no blinkers, running lights nothing on the 5th wheel !!! is there a switch some where? checked 30 amp fuse on the truck for towing socket is good.
any help would greatly be appreciated ,tips or ideas.

thank you.
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Old 12-29-2016, 03:36 PM   #2
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oh forgot everything inside works great,
just no blinkers, running light or brake lights.
did'nt test brakes because don't want to move in the dark.
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Old 12-29-2016, 04:10 PM   #3
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Everything 12V in the Montana is powered by the Battery(s) in the Montana or if on shore power by its converter. All external lights that you said are not working are powered from your truck. Make sure Montana is plugged into the truck securely and the contacts are clean. Could check voltage 12V on your rear truck connector with a multimeter

No switches in that circuit that I am aware of. Other thing would be to check any fuse(s) in the truck powering that rear truck connector powering your Montana in tow
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Old 12-29-2016, 04:30 PM   #4
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ok I was looking forward to a switch. but was thinking it was the truck. will take to shop in the morning and have them check out the plug in rear of truck. just hoping its not the 5th.

thank you for the help
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Old 12-29-2016, 04:55 PM   #5
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There is a way to power those lights that are not working from the Battery(s) in your Montana. It involves jumping pins on the Montana TV cable (tow vehicle).

Here is a link to a post where some campers use their running lights while they are camping

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f7...mped-4696.html

I have not looked up the actual socket wiring to confirm that it is pins 3 & 4. If you are not familiar with working around electrical components you may want to have a adult drink and wait till your morning appointment. We do not want to short out the wrong pins and make things worse

Take Care
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:04 PM   #6
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the adult beverage is my choice as of now. don't want to make things worse.
great link and ideas over there, might try later on.
I guessing PSU Lions are not the Detroit Lions?

thank you
but I have to root for detroit this weekend
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:15 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L0veless View Post
the adult beverage is my choice as of now. don't want to make things worse.
great link and ideas over there, might try later on.
I guessing PSU Lions are not the Detroit Lions?

thank you
but I have to root for detroit this weekend
Correct not the Detroit Lions , Good Luck this weekend. I will be watching the Steelers hoping that no starters get hurt falling off the bench during the Cleveland Game
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:24 PM   #8
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You can check the trailer wiring easily by using a paper clip to jumper between the battery voltage pin and the running light pin. If you look at your trailer connector (on the fifth wheel) you'll see an "index key" on the edge of the plug. The two pins immediately adjacent to the index key are the two pins you'll want to jumper. If you do jumper those two pins, your trailer running lights should illuminate and the tail lights should illuminate. The brake/turn signal lights should NOT illuminate.

Here is a diagram of what you'll see when looking at the trailer umbilical. It's the two pins listed here as "running lights" and "12 volt power".

If the trailer lights work with the jumper, troubleshoot your truck wiring (or contact your truck dealer). If the trailer lights do not work, troubleshoot your trailer wiring (or contact your trailer dealer).

There is no "high voltage" (AC power) at the trailer umbilical, so there is no risk of being shocked by jumpering these two pins.
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Old 12-30-2016, 07:03 AM   #9
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Just remember, although for this discussion it won't really matter, but that diagram ^ is looking at the connection on the truck. Looking at the plug in your hand from the trailer will be backwards. But for this purpose the top terminals will still be the top terminals.
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Old 12-30-2016, 07:16 AM   #10
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Well, Well, Hi Walt
You need to take that plug in your hand (left or Right), plug it into your truck, running lights etc on, and get that Raptor off the back patio and onto the road PM me when you get a chance

Take Care
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Old 12-30-2016, 03:49 PM   #11
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Well went to mechanic and this guy has been awesome. tested the plug in the bed and it was dead. crawled under the truck and busted a gut laughing. when I had the bed done with line X bed liner they remove the plug to spray the bed. they screwed the plug back in the bed but did not reconnect on the back side. 15 minute fix and I'm on the road.
everyone thank you for the tips will keep these for future issues.
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Old 12-30-2016, 04:00 PM   #12
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Wow! Would be nice if all electrical problems were solved that simply. Happy camping.
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Old 12-30-2016, 04:36 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L0veless View Post
Well went to mechanic and this guy has been awesome. tested the plug in the bed and it was dead. crawled under the truck and busted a gut laughing. when I had the bed done with line X bed liner they remove the plug to spray the bed. they screwed the plug back in the bed but did not reconnect on the back side. 15 minute fix and I'm on the road.
everyone thank you for the tips will keep these for future issues.
Good to hear you are now all GO and THANKS for keeping us informed of the final outcome.

Be Safe and Happy Camping
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2013 Silverado 3500HD LTZ CC LB 4X4 DRW
Duramax 6.6L Turbo Diesel; Allison Trans
Reese 20K; Carlisle Radial Trail RH/HD; TPMS (12 Tires)

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Old 12-31-2016, 05:00 PM   #14
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well 2 days averaging 300 miles a day,
the truck is awesome I never thought the diesel would have so much pulling ability and stability.
the 5th wheel tracks great,so far everything is working great. high five to the guys who put this trailer together. of course we will see where we are at in 2 months. but life is good for now
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