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Old 03-18-2018, 04:44 AM   #1
Phdruss
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Landing gear issue

Brand new just got home set up in yard. Two weeks later I go to hook it up and bolt sheers off cross bar of landing gear drive. Seem the product they use is inferior. Went to home depot and purchase stainless steel bolts. To be safe i have purchased extras and spare 30 amp fuses to store in compartment. Also the grease fittings on the landing gear are still painted over indicating no grease has ever been put in. Filled them too. My dealer and I will be having a chat!
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Old 03-18-2018, 05:06 AM   #2
chuckster57
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Often times the landing gear is lubed when assembled, so a painted zerk fitting doesn’t mean no grease was ever put in, just the dealer didn’t put any in. I have had the bolt shear on brand new units so again it may be a coincidence and not the dealers fault.
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Old 03-18-2018, 06:34 AM   #3
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Glad the issue was a relatively simple fix.. I’d be asking why a brand new unit would shear the bolt.. things happen but this shouldn’t.

Also... dealer prep should include service dept putting grease in LG fittings as well as leaf spring fittings. I asked about mine before bought it and they said it would be serviced. Fresh grease was visible at zerk fittings...

I’m wondering with your unit was it parked on a slope driveway or something that might have put an unusual side load on the system.
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Old 03-18-2018, 07:33 AM   #4
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You didn't give information on what you were doing when the shear pin (typically a grade 5 bolt) sheared. If you run the landing gear to the "top stop" or the "bottom stop" the motor will limit out and shear the pin/blow the fuse as a protection feature. Most of us avoid "top stop/bottom stop" extremes by marking the landing gear legs an inch or so before each extreme, so we don't hold the switch and allow the gear to travel past that marked point. There is no protective limit switch to remove power, the motor will continue to "grind the gear up" until either the motor lugs to a stop, the fuse blows or the shear pin fails.

I learned this lesson "the hard way" in a campground when I was trying to level the trailer and couldn't get the nose low enough. As soon as I reached the "top stop" the motor sound changed to a "heavy load" then immediately changed to a "free wheeling whir" as the shear pin broke. I didn't blow the fuse, but after a couple hours of trying to figure out what I'd done, disassembling the torque bar from both ends and reinserting a bolt in place of the shear pin, I was able to raise the front of the trailer, rehitch, shorten the extension legs (repin them) and unhitch/level properly.

I learned from that event to mark the landing gear legs and to "respect" the "top stop" and the "bottom stop"....

While this may not be what happened to you, this is a good place to again inform "newcomers to fifth wheel landing gear operation" of the "inherent danger they face if they grind to the top stop".......
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Old 03-18-2018, 11:18 AM   #5
mtofell
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Don't put in stronger bolts. They are weak on purpose as a planned failure point. Stronger bolts will likely result in something more expensive breaking if/when it happens again.

As the other poster stated, if you are over-running the jacks, don't. I park on a steep slope and have to use the entire range of motion of my jacks and have over-run them a couple times. I got online and ordered replacements and have several sets so I don't ever get stuck somewhere. It's literally about a 10 minute repair to swap one out when it breaks.
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Old 03-19-2018, 03:13 AM   #6
Phdruss
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Nope, parked on level surface with no load. Hopefully it is just a one time issue.
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Old 03-19-2018, 03:17 AM   #7
Phdruss
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I too have marked the landing gear with a sharpie about an inch from top and bottom. Thank you for your input. Being new to a 5ver I will take all the advice given. I am hoping this is a one time issue but at least I am confident I have the knowledge and equipment to address should it happen again.
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Old 03-19-2018, 05:00 AM   #8
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Good deal on marking the landing gear travel range. Most of us either "cringe when close" or "mark the leg so we know"... I put two strips of reflective tape on the moving leg, when the tape gets to the stationary leg, I stop retracting or extending. Like you, one time of replacing the pin is enough. Not a difficult task, just not something I like to do when I'm trying to leave a campground or set up for a weekend.

Just make sure the shear pin replacements are grade 3 or grade 5 bolts (depending on what was originally installed). The shear pin is intended to be the weakest link in the system to protect all the other components. If you replace the shear pin with a stronger bolt, it won't shear as easily and could lead to the gear packs in the landing gear or the motor becoming the weakest link. If the gear packs "self destruct" from being driven beyond their capacity, they can be rebuilt, but it usually entails a special order for the gear rebuild kit, significantly more time and possibly removing the landing gear to access the top gear location. If the motor shaft shears, well you can imagine the cost there, in addition to removing/reinstalling the motor on the drive leg. Landing gear motors, even though they are all built in China, run anywhere from $300-600. Not nearly as "cheap and quick" as replacing the shear pin.

As for stainless replacements???? Depending on what was originally installed, I'd suggest replacing with the same type of bolt and the same "strength of steel" (don't upgrade the strength).
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Old 03-19-2018, 08:52 AM   #9
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What a great group here.. the experience, expertise, and willingness to share info for possible solutions amazes me.. Its a good bet that someone here can help.. enjoy the posts everyday... cheers all
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