This Spring we purchased a 2019 Passport 2210RB. We love our trailer but have a couple of problems we are dealing with that Keystone won't help with.
Has anyone had a problem with the MORryde steps denting the door frame? When you put the steps in the storage position, the foot behind the latch has dented the door frame. The steps latch, but somehow they hit the frame. I don't know if that's an adjustment thing or just installed wrong.
The other issue we have is with the battery. It has failed the load test but the battery mfg Mullet, is stating that problems with the electrical system will cause that problem also. When boondocking with nothing on, the battery dies in 5-8 hours.
We're caught in the middle between keystone and the warranty repair facility. Any insight or experience with these problems would be greatly appreciated.
First the solid steps: I see this a lot, and not just on Keystone trailers. Were they factory installed or added at the dealer.
The battery: is it an RV/Marine deep cycle battery? If so what group and how many amp hours is it rated for? Unless you disconnect the lead from the battery, there will be some draw. Radio memory, LP detector, if your fridge is on the control board is drawing.
Has anybody tested the individual cells with a hydrometer?
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
The steps are a factory installation as far as I know. Don’t have the specific on the battery where it’s being worked on. It is s deep cycle and maybe a group 24. You can’t check cells where it is a maintenance free with no caps.
What did you mean when you said you see a lot of this ? Dents?
Yes I see the door frame dented a lot of times, one reason I’m not a fan. If I remember right some allow for minor adjustment of the locking arms.
If the battery is a sealed battery, then I would say charge it overnight. Check voltage with a volt meter. Let it set for 30 minutes and check again with a volt meter. Then load test,
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
Most maintenance free batteries are not "truly maintenance free"...
Most have either "hidden cell caps" or an aluminized foil tape over the cell caps which must be either pried off the cells or unscrewed with a special tool.
Why do that make them this way? To give the "illusion" that you don't need to be bothered by checking your battery. In many situations, the batteries don't lose water through evaporation, but in the RV environment, that's usually a "wishful dream" that doesn't materialize in reality.
You do need to examine your battery carefully, I think that with a good inspection, you'll see where the cell caps are located.
Here's a couple of examples of "maintenance free batteries" You can see, in each, the clear indication of where the cell caps are located.
True "maintenance free batteries" are well outside the price range that RV dealerships are willing to put in an RV during preparation for a sale. I'd suspect your dealer isn't that benelovent and your battery, like all the rest, is the cheapest one he could buy wholesale.
Determine what kind of battery you have. Maintenance free but what kind? If you took the battery off the trailer and it failed a load test I would replace it. How many times has it been completely discharged? Was it new when it placed in the trailer. When they installed the 2nd battery in my new trailer I found it was some junker from somewhere when I inspected it. Keystone does not put the battery in the trailer. That comes from the dealer so he is the one to take care of this. I think it would be hard for a new battery in a new trailer to fail a load test unless you've really been depleting it often. JMO
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Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
I don't know if the battery was new. If not it should have been with a new trailer. We do some boondocking and it has died several times now. Yes you are correct it's a dealer item. It's so easy for the battery people to say it's something in the trailer doing it and the repair shop to say it's the battery. Mullet won't take the fact that it failed the load test to replace it. They want voltage levels done, but having a hard time getting the repair people to do it.
You're dealing with a 2019 Passport, purchased this spring (3 or 4 months ago) ???
The battery issue is "squarely in the dealer's area of responsibility"... Why fight it, just haul the battery to the dealership and tell them, "My battery died, I want a new one under warranty".... Let them fight or fudge or whatever they need to do to get it resolved AFTER you leave with your new battery......
I wish I could. The dealer is in Indiana and I'm in Colorado.
When I contacted the dealer, they passed if off to the battery mfg (Mullet), hence the discussion.
You may find that it's less hassle to just buy a new battery or use this opportunity to upgrade to a dual golf cart battery system (if you're planning to do much camping without hookups).
As frustrating as it may seem, a $50 battery is cheap compared to hours and hours of "chasing warranty claims" and that doesn't include the stress that comes from "fighting the battles"....
I guess we can have another discussion on that one. The repair facility wanted to charge me $378.00 for a new one. What are the prices for a good one 12V. Or should I go with 2 6V?
Two golf cart batteries (GC2) at Sams will cost you $89 each with a $15 core charge (in Michigan). Costco is about $97 each battery.
WalMart has GP 24 "Marine/RV" batteries (probably what your dealer installed) for $59-69. You can spend significantly more for "high priced, quality batteries" but those are NOT what any dealership would install. They use the cheapest available, "get the customer out the door" battery they can find.
A "upcharge of $378" if it's to install a new battery with no other maintenance, is literally "highway robbery"......
The repair shop (authorized by Keystone) wanted to charge me $378.00 for a new battery. What do they cost for a good 12V one? or should I go with two 6V?
I thought the price was too high also. It's still a possibility that it's a trailer wiring problem, although unlikely. Just don't want to create more problems than what I got.
Your trailer is in warranty. If it's a trailer wiring problem, Keystone (not you) should be paying for the repair. If it's the battery, if (questionable at this point) you can get the dealer or the battery manufacturer to pay, good luck. It's probably easier and faster, at this point, to unhook the battery from the trailer, take it to WalMart, buy a replacement, take it home and install it, then check to see if it's working.
Two things to remember. DO NOT CONNECT THE BATTERY BACKWARDS or you'll blow fuses in the converter assembly, With your limited experience with electricity, trying to resolve that may be difficult, so PAY ATTENTION to how the battery is connected and be sure that the + is + and the - is -.....
Once you have the new battery installed, the "phantom drains" will discharge it completely within a week or so, even with the battery disconnect switch in the disconnect position. So, you'll need to undo (disconnect) one or both of the battery cables if you store the trailer without being connected to shore power. My guess is this is the reason you're having battery problems currently.
Phantom drains will destroy a battery in 2 or 3 months of "storage without shore power" if left connected.
Where Keystone has refused to fix the dented door frame or the steps, I really need to know if anyone else with MOR-ryde step have had a problem with the door frame or the screen door not closing because the frame has bent outward?
Sounds like you've been doing quite a bit of boondocking and discharging the battery. It is probably shot. If you are doing much boondocking one cheap 12v marine battery is going to have a very hard time keeping up with much of anything. If you are trying to stay multiple days without a generator...it won't.
As has been said, IMO you should upgrade to dual batteries at a minimum. The 6v are better for extended/frequent boondocking. Good 12v batteries will work fine for normal weekend camping generally if you don't overdo it. In your situation I would not buy any of the cheap 12v batteries.
If you choose to go the 6v route do some research on the size of the cases, the boxes and the room you have available on your trailer. Bear in mind as well that dual 6v batteries and dual 12v batteries are wired differently. When you make a decision on what you want folks here can instruct you on the proper way to connect them. While you are doing all that go ahead and install a true disconnect on your new batteries to eliminate all the phantom draw that comes from the trailer.
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Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
Where Keystone has refused to fix the dented door frame or the steps, I really need to know if anyone else with MOR-ryde step have had a problem with the door frame or the screen door not closing because the frame has bent outward?
I hope you find an answer, but I’m thinking Keystone is going to deny and warranty claim on the steps and door frame. It’s all in how the dealer writes the story and how they take the pictures to support that. I’m in the industry and I can tell you it’s getting harder by the month to convince any manufacturer that they goofed or something failed without real clear pics and concise documentation. If your steps have the rubber caps on the ends, try taking them off. I truly hope you get a positive resolution.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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