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Old 08-21-2019, 05:02 PM   #21
fjr vfr
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What are typical temps for the fridge and freezer? Is 23 deg in the freezer and 37 in the fridge normal?
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Old 08-21-2019, 05:51 PM   #22
JRTJH
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In moderate temperatures, mine runs about 15-20 and 33-36. When we were in Las Vegas earlier this summer, it ran 20-30 and 38-40, depending on where the sun was hitting the trailer. When the refrigerator vents were in the sunshine, temps rose slightly, when in the shade, they fell, but with 100+ air temps, the refrigerator worked harder and had trouble "keeping up" with the temps we see when the air temp is in the 60's or 70's.

So, depending on the circumstances that you're in, what you have can be normal. There are some things you can do to improve the cooling. Shade the trailer sidewall where the refrigerator sits, make sure the fans are clean and properly adjusted (and running when it's hot) and refrain from "grazing" with the refrigerator door open. Many people will open the door, search for what they want, stand and contemplate their decisions and "dilly/dally" with the door open. Doing that allows much of the "hard to obtain cold air" to escape to the floor (if you stand there barefoot, you know what I'm talking about).

Ideally, open the refrigerator only when necessary, know what you're getting and do it quickly with the intention of closing the refrigerator door as quickly as you can. Once the cold air is lost, it takes significant work for the refrigerator to recover. Conserving the cold will help keep the temps at their lowest possible point.
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Old 08-21-2019, 06:30 PM   #23
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Thanks JRTJH.
It's possible I'm trouble shooting a problem I don't really have? We are at the Outer Banks, NC and the last few days have been in the 90's with high humidity. So maybe I'm expecting too much from it?

I must also admit to sometimes "grazing" as you put it.
I have a couple extra fans installed in the back and have been running them, but the weather's been very uncomfortable outside.


I did unplug my thermister and it ohm'd out at 743k ohms. I left it unplugged for now. I have 5 temp settings on the eyebrow panel. I guess they do nothing if the thermister is unplugged? Is that correct?

I think this board may have been replaced at one time. It shows a date 10215 on the back, (that's how it's written.) I assume that's 2015 something. The trailer is 2011.



Thanks for the help. I'm on another learning curve.
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Old 08-21-2019, 07:11 PM   #24
nellie1289
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i have a temp control on the back of the upper fins in my refridge. it is a little plastic thing that slides up and down that appears to do nothing. what is this for? i have no temp issues in my fridge and mine is in the slide by the way, it does take a while to cool down though, always start it up 2 days before our trip.
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Old 08-21-2019, 07:15 PM   #25
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i have a temp control on the back of the upper fins in my refridge. it is a little plastic thing that slides up and down that appears to do nothing. what is this for? i have no temp issues in my fridge and mine is in the slide by the way, it does take a while to cool down though, always start it up 2 days before our trip.


The white “bulb” is the thermister. It’s held in place by that plastic slider, and moving it up will change the interior temp of the fridge. You may not notice 2-4 degrees unless you drink a water or milk taken from the fridge.
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Old 08-21-2019, 07:18 PM   #26
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not in my trailer right now but is up to cool it lower or down to cool it lower, half the time i just see it hanging off the metal, it seems so weird to me.

on edit, just saw this on you tube, amazing

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Old 08-25-2019, 08:03 AM   #27
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He isn't joking, DO NOT REMOVE THE WOOD!!! As an RV tech, I can tell you that that piece of wood is exactly where it needs to be and it is exactly the size it needs to be. Do NOT change anything about it.
In photo 2, you have the photo of the black box, down in the corner of the fridge. There is a white wire leading into the black box (not the one with the red and black wires). The white wire leads into the box and is usually a blue and brown wire, that is your thermistor wire. Seeing as how you have the baffle in there, there should be at least one, if not 2 small fans that force the air up, and out across the fins on the top of the fridge (hence the plywood baffle) and out the top vent.
call Dometic and order a new thermistor, they are not expensive, they are a bit of a pain the butt to replace, but it can make all the difference for proper cooling. Also, make sure that the fans are working correctly. There is a sensor at the top of the fins, usually on the right side that controls the fans, make sure that it is working correctly, you can use something to heat it up (don't melt it) to see if your fans engage, if not then replace it, also make sure you have power leading to your fans (12 volt)
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Old 08-25-2019, 08:07 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fjr vfr View Post
Thanks JRTJH.
It's possible I'm trouble shooting a problem I don't really have? We are at the Outer Banks, NC and the last few days have been in the 90's with high humidity. So maybe I'm expecting too much from it?

I must also admit to sometimes "grazing" as you put it.
I have a couple extra fans installed in the back and have been running them, but the weather's been very uncomfortable outside.


I did unplug my thermister and it ohm'd out at 743k ohms. I left it unplugged for now. I have 5 temp settings on the eyebrow panel. I guess they do nothing if the thermister is unplugged? Is that correct?

I think this board may have been replaced at one time. It shows a date 10215 on the back, (that's how it's written.) I assume that's 2015 something. The trailer is 2011.



Thanks for the help. I'm on another learning curve.
Plug the thermistor back in, you are showing correct ohms on it, it means it is working correctly. Your fridge will not work correctly without it plugged in. The date code is Jan 02, 2015. If your fridge is not cooling sufficiently, slide the thermistor (inside) up the fins to make it cooler.
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Old 08-25-2019, 08:15 AM   #29
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The reason for the plywood is to force the fan air through the coil that’s how mine is fixed 35 in the refrigerator and six in the freezer
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Old 08-25-2019, 08:54 AM   #30
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FWIW, I'm not an RV refrigerator expert however I do own a residential HVAC business. In modern HVAC equipment there are TONS of thermistors. Well, maybe not tons, but a whole lot of them are used. I can tell you with all but 100% certainty thermistors don't drift. They either work correctly or not at all. If they're not open or a dead short, the thermistor isn't the problem.

As far as RV refrigeration, here's the best site I've found with lots of DIY videos. Ours is in a slide as well and wasn't keeping as cold as I wanted it to. Here is the link to their video on potential issues with refrigerators in slides. I hope you find this helpful. BTW, my problem was an ID10T error as my daughter says.

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Old 08-25-2019, 12:07 PM   #31
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On the Subject of Refeigerators?

Does anybody know what this part is for? It came with our 2016 Alpine frig.
Thanks.
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Old 08-25-2019, 12:36 PM   #32
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Do you have two of them?

Whenever I see a pair of identical leftover dinguses in a refrigerator kit, I try to see if they are designed to keep the doors secured but in an open position, i.e., for storage. The one I have currently for my Dometic looks like a credit card with slots in it. You didn't say what brand your refrigerator was.
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Old 08-25-2019, 01:45 PM   #33
chuckster57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bignewsantafe View Post
Does anybody know what this part is for? It came with our 2016 Alpine frig.

Thanks.


That is for keeping the doors ajar when it’s not in use. The fridge and freezer doors “hook onto” the center piece for normal operation. When storing, that piece slips over the center post and the doors hook onto it leaving a gap for air circulation.
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Old 08-26-2019, 05:12 PM   #34
Bignewsantafe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
That is for keeping the doors ajar when it’s not in use. The fridge and freezer doors “hook onto” the center piece for normal operation. When storing, that piece slips over the center post and the doors hook onto it leaving a gap for air circulation.
Spot on Chuckster! The doors never did like to stay a little open when I would try to leave a gap for air flow when shut down.
Thank you.
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