Hi all, I have a 2017 Fuzion 384 and have had it since November bought as new. We have had it out 5 times so far and none for more than 3 nights 4 days. I am on my second hot water heater anode and it is close to being done as well. It keeps corroding/dissolving where the rod meets the the bolt head with threads. I always drain the rig of all fluids when we return from a trip including pulling the anode and letting the tank dry. Any ideas why this is happening? I've had it twice to the dealer and they say its not a problem that is covered under warranty but my previous trailer, that I had for 5 years, had the same anode from the time of purchase until time of sell. BTW I always use a filter when filling my fresh water tank as I live in AZ with real hard water.
I pick it up tomorrow and will send pics then, that said I have filled water in 3 different locations across the state... Not all water in AZ is that hard but the valley can have very hard water.
I'm going on two years with the anode rod I use the blue inline water filter remove the rod and sand the rod smooth occasional vacuum out the standing water and sediment with 3/4 clear hose attached to the shop vac. Reminds me i need to service mine from the recent trip through the southwest.
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2018 1 ton 4x4 c.c standard bed GMC Denali
Anderson ultimate hitch
2015 311 Impact Fusion toy hauler
2018 Milwaukee 8 FLRTU roadglide glide ultra
2018 800 Z force spot BUGGY.
500 watts of solar enough power for boon docking.
I'm going on two years with the anode rod I use the blue inline water filter remove the rod and sand the rod smooth occasional vacuum out the standing water and sediment with 3/4 clear hose attached to the shop vac. Reminds me i need to service mine from the recent trip through the southwest.
So the residual water in the bottom of the tank could be the problem? Interesting. My father mentioned the remaining water lower than the 'plug' anode and that may be the issue... So a clean out may be in order to ensure no contaminates in between fills...
Anode rod deterioration is a "designed in feature" that is supposed to happen. Better that the anode corrodes than the steel tank wall (behind the cracked porcelain liner)....
That said, from the OP's description, he may be replacing a perfectly usable anode. The statement, "It keeps corroding/dissolving where the rod meets the the bolt head with threads." may not be a problem and may be the way the anode is supposed to work.
The first picture is a drawing of an anode to compare. There is a steel rod in the center of the anode. It is coated with the actual "anode metal". As the anode corrodes, the steel rod through the center supports the anode. It won't "break off and cause a problem. It's designed to keep dissolving as long as it is in contact with the steel cap/center steel rod.... I would probably replace this anode, but it is still protecting the water heater tank.
The second photo is a comparison of a new anode and an unserviceable (IMHO) anode. I would replace it if it were my water heater.
The third picture is a comparison of 4 anode rods. The first is new, second is serviceable, third is questionable (I would replace it) and fourth is unserviceable.
The fourth is a photo of three anode rods. The bottom is a new one, center is a serviceable one (but I would replace it if it were mine) and the top is a completely corroded anode. As you can see, the steel center core does not corrode, so the "sacrificial metal" (usually magnesium) will not break off and damage your water heater.
With the above comments, there are two types of anode rods available for Suburban water heaters. Both are "OEM" styles. The first, usually shipped with all water heaters, is a "Magnesium anode". It typically works for most people. In the Owner's Manual, Suburban addresses the alternative, an "Aluminum anode" for those few people who find the magnesium anode dissolves too quickly. Both are available, both are approved by Suburban (they market both under their brand) and the answer may well be to replace the magnesium anode with an aluminum one.
If you are using electric, try using gas. Trace voltage in water will rapidly deplete an anode. Maybe check water with meter some how for trace voltage. Could come from heating element or a short in heater.
For anyone following this thread wondering about the status of their anode, not all HW heaters have anodes. Don't be surprised if you can't find one. Check your owners manual or FAQ online at the manufacture's website. Adding one for "extra protection" may actually do more harm than good. On the flip side, just because you don't see one doesn't mean it shouldn't be there.
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2013 F150 Lariat Supercrew 3.5 Ecoboost 4x4
2017 Springdale 220BHWE
Retired US Navy Master Chief, Nuclear trained, Submarine qualified
For anyone following this thread wondering about the status of their anode, not all HW heaters have anodes. Don't be surprised if you can't find one. Check your owners manual or FAQ online at the manufacture's website. Adding one for "extra protection" may actually do more harm than good. On the flip side, just because you don't see one doesn't mean it shouldn't be there.
Suburban uses an anode. Atwood does not. There you go.
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Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Impact 312
2017 Silverado 3500HD SRW
Just a note on John's pictures of anode rods. As the anode rod begins to deplete the diameter of the anode rode will decrease. This decrease in diameter equals a decrease in surface area of the anode rode and therefore it will deteriorate more rapidly.
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Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
In the Owner's Manual, Suburban addresses the alternative, an "Aluminum anode" for those few people who find the magnesium anode dissolves too quickly. Both are available, both are approved by Suburban (they market both under their brand) and the answer may well be to replace the magnesium anode with an aluminum one.
"dissolves too quickly" is too subjective for me being a noob.
So I'm going out on a limb to say that we can expect the magnesium anodes to last a year? And that less than a year is too quickly?
"dissolves too quickly" is too subjective for me being a noob.
So I'm going out on a limb to say that we can expect the magnesium anodes to last a year? And that less than a year is too quickly?
I'll go out on a limb and say, if the anode is gone when you check it, and you check it regularly, then it's dissolving "too quickly"... If, on the other hand, you never check it and find it "gone" at the end of the camping season, then you probably "should have" checked it sooner and maybe considered the magnesium anode. If, (another however) you're draining your water heater if it's going to sit "idle" for more than a couple of weeks, then you're checking your anode every time you drain the water heater and it "should be" visibly intact.
Many members just simply change out the anode rod for a new one every camping season. When they winterize, they toss the old one and when they prep the trailer in the spring, they install a new anode. I haven't heard of anyone who "needs a magnesium anode" to get through a month long trip, and I use a magnesium anode with no issues for roughly 2 camping seasons on one rod.
My "opinion" (I can't verify and have no data to support this) is that if the magnesium anode is dissolving too quickly, using the aluminum anode may prolong the life of the anode, but is it protecting the tank as significantly as the magnesium anode did??? Some say, yes, some say, no.... I'm inclined to prefer a deteriorating anode rather than a deteriorating tank. As I said, that's "my opinion" and isn't quite the same as the Suburban owner's manual that doesn't compare how much protection each type of anode rod provides and whether one provides more protection than the other. They simply say that if the magnesium anode dissolves too quickly, use the alternative aluminum rod.... They may be doing that "because some protection is better than no protection" or they may be doing that "because the aluminum rod is just as good as the magnesium rod.... I just don't know.
Not sure which one I use, it's the one hanging on a hook in the rv section at Walmart or Ace hardware. I drain/flush the water heater a couple times a year & usually wire brush the rod & reuse til it's 50%+ gone, yea I'm cheap, but always have a new one on hand.
I have a rv water softener connected always which I believe extends the life of the anode rod, mine lasts well over a year.
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Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
NOTE: Water with high levels of iron and/or sulfate will increase the rate of deterioration; therefore, more frequent replacement may be required. If anode rod is mostly eaten away, replace it with a new one.
The Suburban magnesium rod is part number 232767
The Suburban aluminum rod is part number 232768
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Bob & Becky
2012 3402 Montana
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC
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