5th wheel lift kit

[Don N.]

Has anyone considered installing or has installed a lift kit for their 5th wheel? The front of my trailer is slightly "nose up" when attached to my truck, and I want an additional 3" of clearance for my rear jacks while traveling. I have no more adjustment available on my gooseneck hitch. Keystone informed me that installing a lift kit "may" affect the warranty; don't know what that means. I have already damaged and had to replace one of the rear jacks. A local well known car/truck suspension business told me they have and can install a lift kit for about $500.

[bsmith0404]

First thing to check is if your axles are above or below the springs. The the axles are above the springs, flip them. That will give you the lift you want. if not, people do it, just make sure its a good shop that knows what they're doing and does it right. The last thing you want is a block coming out. Keep in mind, trailer axles flex as part of the suspension, they're not like a rigid axle on a truck.

As for voiding the warranty, they will tell you that any modifications could void warranty if there are any problems down the road. They will try to point at the modification and say it caused or contributed to the problem.

[JRTJH]

Reading back to your second post on the forum, "I discovered soon after buying our Sprinter (269FWRLS) in March 2016..." It seems that your Keystone warranty is already expired. To the best of my knowledge, LCI (Lippert) makes the frame and they have no "consumer warranty" that extends beyond what Keystone provided during the first 12 months. http://www.lci1.com/assets/content/s...d_Warranty.pdf

So, I'd have to ask you, what warranty are you concerned with at this point?

As for installing a lift kit on your chassis, it's a simple process, $500 seems a bit high, at least for doing the job around this area. Depending on where you're located, that may be close to the "appropriate rate". The only problem I would caution against is raising the center of gravity. Raising your trailer will cause it to be more "top-heavy" in turns and curves and might lead to a problem with controllability in an emergency. I'd discuss that "at length" with the suspension company that you're considering to do the work. They have the trailer and the entire process "at hand" and can give you a much better opinion of what to expect than someone (like me) who can only visualize what it might be when the work is completed.

[gearhead]

I would try to find an "old time" spring shop. It's been 30+ years since I used one. I was rebuilding a utility trailer and had a shop in the Houston ghetto re-arch and add a couple leafs to the Checker taxi cab straight axle. (That's a whole nuther story). It was very cheap...even back then. Find a shop and talk to them about what you want. I would call and see if they are interested in the work before I hooked up and towed the trailer there.
$500 sounds about 2x too much for installing lift blocks.

[Ruko]

This is an easy bolt on kit that will lift the unit 2" as well as add alignment adjustablity.

https://store.lci1.com/correct-track...sion-alignment

[Don N.]

Thank you all for your thoughts. I purchased an extended warranty and should probably read the damn thing! The leaf springs sit atop the axles on my FW and I'm aware of the center-of-gravity issue. The springs guy I talked too mentioned that to me regarding installing a lift kit. Anyone installed a kit?

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by Ruko

This is an easy bolt on kit that will lift the unit 2" as well as add alignment adjustablity.

https://store.lci1.com/correct-track...sion-alignment

This is what I used to get the final 2' at the axle I needed to level my fiver.

[warsw]

I installed a 3" lift on my 33' Forest river 5th/W. I put the lift together myself. I just got 2x3 inch blocks cut to length at Swift steal, a local steel outlet. I then purchased new longer axle "U" bolts from Summit Racing and got 3" longer centering pins from Napa auto parts.

I have a drill press so I was able to drill the holes for the centering pins. If you don’t have a press you need to have them drilled. Drilling through 3” of steel takes some time and they need to be straight.

To do the install I pulled the rear axle up on blocks and pulled the tire on the front axle, like you would to change a flat. This gave the clearance to drop the front axle to install the block. To do the rear axle I put the front on blocks. I just did one side at a time and kept the trailer connected to the truck so it couldn’t move.
I have sense pulled the trailer over 6K miles with absolutely no problems what so ever. It tows exactly the same as before the lift. I even had the trailer in 60 mph cross winds with no signs of any instability. The trailer now sits level with near equal weight on both axles.

This is the second 5th/W I have done this to. The first trailer was a 39’ Montana High Country. I had over 30K miles on it when I sold it with no negative issues.
To get all the parts it cost about $89.00 and took about 4 hr for me to do the install.

I have no problems doing this lift on a 5th/W or a TT. You will have to decide if doing this kind of mod fits into your comfort zone.

Words of caution:
1. If you do a lift make sure you get quality parts that are rated for auto use. Summit Racing is a good source.
2. IMHO….3” would be the max and keep an eye on all the suspension components. I haven’t seen any excess wear from doing a lift but it is surly a good idea to pay more attention to what is going on under there.

[mtofell]

Can't help with the lift kit but if the only reason is for your jacks I may be able to help. The location on my Keystone Hideout was absolutely insane - at the far back end of the trailer. I scraped a couple times and then finally ripped one completely off on a dirt road. So, I re-mounted them on 2X4s set into the frame. In doing so I moved them a bit forward which will help. But the main benefit is now I can just zip out a few screws and remove them completely when needed.

I can snap some pictures later and upload them if you're interested.

[Dave W]

I raised ours about an inch which at the rear was enough for everything but the dragging spare. I did it using some 1.75 wide by 1" thick aluminum from Metals Supermarket. I bought enough stock so could have stacked and bolted 2 pieces together and made it 2" but that wasn't necessary. This year, since Keystone in their 'wisdom' only supplied the12K pound, 38 foot fiver with 5200 pound axles, I'm upgrading them to 6000 pound capacity axles with new springs and disc brake hubs. The jury is out as to whether I really need the spacers, but will probably reinstall them regardless if the new U-bolts will work. I'm also going to install the three MORryde X factor cross members I bought last year and ran out of time to install. I need to modify the gas piping to do the job per their design. Just waiting on better weather

The absolute best way, IMO, to raise a trailer over a couple inches or so is to build a subframe add on welded to the existing trailer frame and move everything down whatever amount you need

[tralbos]

The only way to go is with a Sub-Frame Lift. My old Keystone had one when I bought it to sit level on my 2015 Ram 2500 Mega Cab pickup, and I just had a sub-frame lift put on my newer camper I just got last fall.
I added a 4" Tube Sub-Frame with cross supports and New hangers that were 1" longer than the original ones to give a total lift of 5" and that leveled it right out.


http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...pictureid=5392

[X-Jaywalker]

I do not know where Champerlian is, but curious how much that cost you? I am in the same boat trying to figure out which way to go. I too need about 4-5 inches. WOW, seems like a lot, eh? The quote I got was $2000. in Arizona. Thanks

[X-Jaywalker]

Originally Posted by warsw

I installed a 3" lift on my 33' Forest river 5th/W. I put the lift together myself. I just got 2x3 inch blocks cut to length at Swift steal, a local steel outlet. I then purchased new longer axle "U" bolts from Summit Racing and got 3" longer centering pins from Napa auto parts.

I have a drill press so I was able to drill the holes for the centering pins. If you don’t have a press you need to have them drilled. Drilling through 3” of steel takes some time and they need to be straight.

To do the install I pulled the rear axle up on blocks and pulled the tire on the front axle, like you would to change a flat. This gave the clearance to drop the front axle to install the block. To do the rear axle I put the front on blocks. I just did one side at a time and kept the trailer connected to the truck so it couldn’t move.
I have sense pulled the trailer over 6K miles with absolutely no problems what so ever. It tows exactly the same as before the lift. I even had the trailer in 60 mph cross winds with no signs of any instability. The trailer now sits level with near equal weight on both axles.

This is the second 5th/W I have done this to. The first trailer was a 39’ Montana High Country. I had over 30K miles on it when I sold it with no negative issues.
To get all the parts it cost about $89.00 and took about 4 hr for me to do the install.

I have no problems doing this lift on a 5th/W or a TT. You will have to decide if doing this kind of mod fits into your comfort zone.

Words of caution:
1. If you do a lift make sure you get quality parts that are rated for auto use. Summit Racing is a good source.
2. IMHO….3” would be the max and keep an eye on all the suspension components. I haven’t seen any excess wear from doing a lift but it is surly a good idea to pay more attention to what is going on under there.

Warsw.....I am thinking of doing this as well. Do you have some photos you could share? Question? You said you installed 2"x3" blocks. They were Steel? And what length? I am sure yours is a Tandem Axle. So would that be the distance from the front hanger to the rear hanger? Thx in Advance.

[X-Jaywalker]

Originally Posted by tralbos

The only way to go is with a Sub-Frame Lift. My old Keystone had one when I bought it to sit level on my 2015 Ram 2500 Mega Cab pickup, and I just had a sub-frame lift put on my newer camper I just got last fall.
I added a 4" Tube Sub-Frame with cross supports and New hangers that were 1" longer than the original ones to give a total lift of 5" and that leveled it right out.


http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...pictureid=5392

Hi TralBos.....this is what I need. Same set up. You must be an experienced welder if you did this yourself. So this obviously raised your center of cavity (everyone is warning me about). How does it handle and any issues with your height? Did you change to 16 " tires and rims or stay at 15"?

[Hobie]

I’m following this post with real interest. After buying a new Ford F-250, my fiver now sits 8” lower in the back than the front. I’m at a loss how to fix this.

[Fishsizzle]

Originally Posted by Hobie

I’m following this post with real interest. After buying a new Ford F-250, my fiver now sits 8” lower in the back than the front. I’m at a loss how to fix this.

Wow, that’s a lot of difference to make up

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Hobie

I’m following this post with real interest. After buying a new Ford F-250, my fiver now sits 8” lower in the back than the front. I’m at a loss how to fix this.

First, welcome to the forum. There is a wealth of information here, so answers to nearly every situation can be found. Problem is: We have no idea, yet, what your situation is. Your profile states you have a Cougar, that's all we know. You say you bought a "new F250" but we don't know if it's a "new to you" 1999 F250 with a 6" lift kit or a 2019 F250 with stock suspension. We also don't know "which" Cougar you have, either in year or model/length. It's significantly different to have a 8" difference in chassis rail height on a 26' trailer and on a 41' trailer, so as you can see, we'd all need quite a bit more information about your rig and the problems you face before we can give you accurate opinions on some ways to resolve the problem.

Get back with us and I'm sure the members will "jump in with both feet" to help resolve your issues.

Again, welcome.

[Hobie]

JRJTH...thanks for the welcome. My Cougar is a 2012 28SGS. My 2019 F250 super duty is factory fresh with the puck system. Per the Pullrite folks I have their model 2700 16,000 lb hitch sitting on top of their 442 adapter. My trailer springs are on top of the axles. I believe I can raise the king pin 2 holes. I have pictures of all this if it would help. Thanks everyone. I really appreciate all advice

[Matt1959]

So if you put 3” blocks on the axle, what do you do with the equalizer pivot?

[Hobie]

I’m not sure I know what an equalizer pivot is???