Head gray water tank leak

[Travelers889]

Good day all,

I searched all forums but couldn't find anything relevant. Pardon the long-winded post but I figure more is better.
Just got our unit set up about 2 weeks ago and are having our first issue as new owners... Here's the deal: the rig was sitting for some time before we bought it and I don't think it was cleaned out or properly stored. We had odor issues coming from the head black and gray tanks. We did a little reading and bought some enzyme chems. And started filling, dumping and repeating, while keeping the tanks closed so as to keep the liquid levels high. A couple of days back, we were running the head sink and heard a "pop", then a "whoosh", then the sound of water dripping under the rig. I dropped the belly pans and had about 3 or 4 gallons of gray water run out. Water came out of both belly ares at the time; more from the front area. We drained all tanks and I let everything dry out for a couple of days, however, the white batting insulation wasn't soaked. I closed the valves again and after a couple of days of 2 person usage, I had some leakage coming from the head gray tank. Exact source is unknown. It does not appear to be the drain valve and I can't see any cracks from the bottom. I haven't attempted to drop the tank because I don't know how the sink and shower tie into the top on this model. Is it a compression fitting, a threaded fitting or glued from the top? Is there enough slack to drop the tank to see the top from underneath or do I start yanking cabinets? Thanks for taking the time to read this through and thanks in advance for any assistance.

Ben

[NorskeBob]

Hopefully there is someone in the forum that has "worked" on a gray tank.
I would drop the "belly" again and add some dye to the gray tank and put water in it. This may help you find the leak.

Penetrations in the tank - shower/sink input, level indicators and tank outlet. One of the penetrations could have a slow leak.

There are some videos on Youtube that show how to repair cracked gray tanks or repair an outlet leak.

I did a search on the net - gray tank leak - and found where other people had issues and what they did to fix them.

[bobbecky]

I recently repaired our gray tank, due to a crack in the bottom at a molded rib. I was able to make a repair using Plasti-Mend, http://plasti-mend.com . I also added a couple extra supports across the frame under the black and gray tanks along with blocking to provide support of the tanks at about every 12 inches, and there is no flex in the bottom of the tanks now, even when full.

This is where the crack was, barely visible


The completed repair


Angle iron braces added to the original braces along with the blocking. I glued the blocks to the tanks, then re-installed the coroplast belly material

[Travelers889]

Ok, got shoulders deep in the pipe chase/basement and found the issue. We split, or had a split, in the lip seam of the tank. Don't know if it was pre-existing but that's a moot point. Will seam seal it with something and not overfill again. And I'm going to wrap water lines and put some R30 kraft face insulation in the belly to help with winter protection.
I appreciate the replies very much!

[pauljbeaubien]

Going thru the same issues . Many cracks and fitting leaks. Hope that I have located the final leak in grey tank. Black has leak on top of tank. Remove and repair/replace. Does anyone know if the tank toilet and vents use a solid or rubber connections. Montana 2004 3389rl.


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[mazboy]

first, if it is under warranty have the dealer deal with it.

if not, you are going to probably to drop the tank....a pain if you can't get to the vent pipe. dealer replace will be about $1200-1500. i suspect the edge has cracked on the upper side of the tank if you can't see anything.

good luck.

[Travelers889]

Thanks very much for the replies.
My 2012 Raptor (384PK) has glued bungs in the top. All hard points. I have heard they could be slip fittings depending on the model.
I was able to determine that it's a split seam where the top meets the pan, but was unable to completely seal it. Will be pulling the bottom pan off again and getting all the measurements and markings off of the tank and will purchase a new unit. Apparently there is no way to simply order a tank based on year and model. Keystone just sends you to a 3rd party vendor. Everybody said that owning a 5th wheel would be an adventure. I had envisioned something different...

[bobbecky]

You may find, once you get the tank out, you may be able to repair it without replacing it. I had to repair our grey tank last year due to a crack on the bottom of it, and used Plast-mend to make the repair. http://plasti-mend.com/cart/index.ph...tegory&path=59

You may be able to use rubber repair couplings, http://www.supplyhouse.com/No-Hub-Couplings-417000 to put things back together again when you are done.

When I got done making the repair to our tank, I added additional braces and installed blocking between the braces and the bottom of the tanks, so the bottom would not sag when full and also to take some of the load off of the flanges that hold the tank. Once I had the blocks glued to the bottom of the tanks with silicone adhesive, I reinstalled the belly coroplast.

This is one of the companies that advertise replacement tanks, although I have never done business with them. http://www.icondirect.com/categories...Holding-Tanks/

[Travelers889]

Excellent information and much appreciated.

[GordKey22]

Just a quick question, please excuse my ignorance.


How are the coroplast(?) belly panels fastened? Are they just on with some kind of adhesive? A can't seem to see any fasteners on mine.


I may be pulling mine off to do some work and would like to have a bit of a plan on putting it back.


thanks

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by GordKey22

Just a quick question, please excuse my ignorance.


How are the coroplast(?) belly panels fastened? Are they just on with some kind of adhesive? A can't seem to see any fasteners on mine.


I may be pulling mine off to do some work and would like to have a bit of a plan on putting it back.


thanks

There are two types of "bottom material" used by Keystone. One is "coroplast" (corrugated plastic) that is about 1/8" thick and is molded hollow tubes similar to corrugated cardboard boxes. It is found on the "higher priced trailers".

The other type "bottom material" is DARCO, a polyester mesh reinforced plastic material that is very similar to the cheap version of "blue plastic tarps". DARCO is typically black and is used in place of coroplast on the entry level trailers from Keystone. DARCO is also used in nearly all Keystone trailers to line the wheelwells and to line the bottom of slideouts.

Coroplast is "nailed" or screwed to the bottom of the long frame rails. It is either "nailed in place using a pneumatic nailer or screwed in place using self tapping screws.

DARCO is not "secured to the trailer belly. It is laid on the trailer frame, the floor structure is then placed on top of the frame and the DARCO is then wrapped over the edges of the floor and stapled to the top of the floor.

So, make sure what your Hideout has under it. If it's "black tarp" it's DARCO, not coroplast.

[GordKey22]

I am pretty sure that mine is coroplast. I can see the ends of the panels and there is nothing wrapped around the trailer frame. I can easily see that there is paint only on the frame.

I willingly admit I have not done much more investigation and really appreciate the information.