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Old 06-26-2012, 03:13 PM   #1
Mistral
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Question Water heater relief valve replacement trick !!

hello !!

My relief valve is slow leaking so I bought a new one but when I try to remove it I don't have enough space to unscrew it. It's screwed on tight, so it wont turn and cannot figure out what tool I should use to do this.

Maybe someone as THE way to do it

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Old 06-26-2012, 07:02 PM   #2
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If you can't get a wrench on it ... screw the longest pipe nipple into the valve that you can fit into the space (should be ¾" pipe rarely ½") and use that as lever to turn as far as you can ... may need to use a screwdriver inside pipe for added leverage. Without the nipple the brass relief valve may crack if screwdriver only is used. Once you move it a little it should come out easily. Be sure to replace it with the same size. Also can try two adjustable wrenches ... one tightly over the top as a spanner and the other to turn the first wrench. Hope this helps, Hank .... also hope my description did not confuse you ... I think I confused myself.
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:48 PM   #3
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Possible other option would be take a crescent wrench or end wrench and put the jaws over the end of the relief valve tight, then take a screw driver or something and put into the other end for leverage, I've had to do this before, Hope this helps. Happy Campin..............Ron
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:23 PM   #4
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Howdy All;

http://www.sears.com/rothenberger-18...&blockType=G23



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Old 06-26-2012, 10:33 PM   #5
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the sears pipe wrench is the best bet. I have one and it works for me when others won't. one tip, try to tighten it first, before you try to loosen it. you don't need to turn it tight very much, only enough to break that corrosion seal, then it should back out fairly easy
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Old 06-27-2012, 05:06 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by hankaye View Post
Agree with hankaye - or - if you want to try a less expensive tool - get one of those curved jaw wrenches used to reach up under a sink
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Old 06-27-2012, 01:45 PM   #7
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the brass relief valve may crack if screwdriver only is used.
I already did this and you know the result.
I will try to remove the heat shield and try a pipe wrench on the top of the valve.

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Old 06-28-2012, 05:40 AM   #8
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hello !!

My relief valve is slow leaking so I bought a new one but when I try to remove it I don't have enough space to unscrew it. It's screwed on tight, so it wont turn and cannot figure out what tool I should use to do this.

Maybe someone as THE way to do it

Are you sure it needs replacing? Just asking, cause my instructions says it is designed to weep somewhat.
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:58 PM   #9
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Are you sure it needs replacing? Just asking, cause my instructions says it is designed to weep somewhat.
This week-end I will have a look to my instructions, maybe I missed something...But I am not convinced it should leak even a little... Imagine this at home !!!

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Old 06-28-2012, 06:33 PM   #10
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This week-end I will have a look to my instructions, maybe I missed something...But I am not convinced it should leak even a little... Imagine this at home !!!

Your system at home is open to city water lines. Because your trailer has a one way valve at the inlet, it becomes a closed system. The expansion of the water heating has to go somewhere. Although a properly maintained system has an air gap at the top of the water heater this isn't always there or is not sufficient to handle the pressure. The relief valve is called upon to do its job.
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Old 06-29-2012, 04:26 AM   #11
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Here's the link to the FAQ on the Suburban water heater site:

http://www.rvcomfort.com/suburban/se..._questions.php

In the event it doesn't work for you, here's the question/answer from the manufacturer:

Why does water drip from my water heater's pressure and temperature (P&T) relief valve?

You may experience water weeping or dripping from your water heater's pressure and temperature (P&T) relief valve when your water heater is operating. Water weeping or dripping does not mean that the P&T valve is defective. As water is heated, it expands. The water system in a recreational vehicle is a closed system and does not allow for the expansion of heated water. When the pressure of the water system exceeds the relieving point of the P&T valve, the valve will relieve the excess pressure.

One way to reduce the frequency of this occurrence is to maintain an air pocket at the top of the water heater tank. This air pocket will form in the tank by design - however, it will be reduced over time by the everyday use of your water heater. To replenish this air pocket:
1.Turn off the water heater.
2.Turn off the cold water supply line.
3.Open a faucet in the RV.
4.Pull out the handle of the pressure relief (P&T) valve and allow water to flow from the valve until it stops.
5.Release the handle on the P&T valve - it should snap closed.
6.Close the faucet and turn on the cold water supply. As the tank fills, the air pocket will develop. Repeat this procedure as often as needed to reduce the frequency of the weeping P&T valve. If the weeping persists after following this procedure, you may elect to have your dealer install an expansion or accumulator tank in the cold water line between the tank and check valve to relieve the pressure caused by thermal expansion.
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:57 AM   #12
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Here's the link to the FAQ on the Suburban water heater site:

<snip!> for brevity
One other important point to make about this weeping. If you regularly use water with a high mineral content, eventually there will be a mineral build up on the valve. Heat makes minerals precipitate out of water faster. This build up will sooner or later cause the valve not to close completely when it does weep. It will leak under pressure even when cold.

You can do something to keep the valve free of the minerals. By manually opening and closing the valve with the little lever several times, the wiping action and motion plus water flow will clean things out a bit. I recommend you do this with the water heater shut off and the contents cooled down. Pressurize the system using city water, and this is one time you might leave the pressure regulator in the box. A bit higher pressure will help move the loose minerals out.

Eventually, depending on the exact content of the water you predominately use, the minerals and other chemicals in the water can corrode the valve surfaces to the point that it needs to be replaced. This is most commonly seen in residential HW heaters, but RV heaters are not immune. The pressure relief valves are identical.

When replacing the valve, you can save some money by purchasing from Home Depot, Lowes, or whatever instead of an RV store. They sell exactly the same items. Just make sure that the temps, etc. on the label are the same as the one you remove.
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:54 PM   #13
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Howdy All;

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveC7010 View Post
One other important point to make about this weeping. If you regularly use water with a high mineral content, eventually there will be a mineral build up on the valve. Heat makes minerals precipitate out of water faster. This build up will sooner or later cause the valve not to close completely when it does weep. It will leak under pressure even when cold.

You can do something to keep the valve free of the minerals. By manually opening and closing the valve with the little lever several times, the wiping action and motion plus water flow will clean things out a bit. I recommend you do this with the water heater shut off and the contents cooled down. Pressurize the system using city water, and this is one time you might leave the pressure regulator in the box. A bit higher pressure will help move the loose minerals out.

Eventually, depending on the exact content of the water you predominately use, the minerals and other chemicals in the water can corrode the valve surfaces to the point that it needs to be replaced. This is most commonly seen in residential HW heaters, but RV heaters are not immune. The pressure relief valves are identical.

When replacing the valve, you can save some money by purchasing from Home Depot, Lowes, or whatever instead of an RV store. They sell exactly the same items. Just make sure that the temps, etc. on the label are the same as the one you remove.
EVERTHING STEVE SAID !!!!!

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Old 07-02-2012, 10:11 AM   #14
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You were right for the dripping valve. The air gap was gone so I did as the manual says and everithing is ok but I had to replace the valve anyway because it was leaking to much compare to the new one.

Thank you all.
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Old 07-02-2012, 05:43 PM   #15
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I'm going to have to weigh in here. EVERY RV I've had has, at one time or another, had the relief valve leak including my new Keystone which started leaking this last week when I set up for camp. However I learned with the first one about the air pocket, as has been mentioned, and was quickly able to fix the problem. Just for clarification I have NEVER had one "weep" continuously and if it did I would replace it as this is not normal.
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Old 07-02-2012, 07:08 PM   #16
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You were right for the dripping valve. The air gap was gone so I did as the manual says and everithing is ok but I had to replace the valve anyway because it was leaking to much compare to the new one.

Thank you all.
I'm glad that worked out for you. ................ So how did you get the valve out?
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Old 07-03-2012, 12:52 PM   #17
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I removed the heat shield then used a pipe wrench. Was easy with the pipe wrench.
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