Does anyone know if wear bar under slide can be replaced without removing slide?

[timjwhite]

Keystone Passport 2016 Ultra Lite 2920bh: Not under warranty
After popping and shaking of accu-slide, I have been informed by the company that I will need to replace the gearbox on the accu-slide. In addition, the dealership now says that the wear bar is pinched on the left side of the slide (when slide is closed in camper). They believe the wear bar is "crushed" on the left side and needs to be replaced. They also suggested that I could use plastic rollers instead of a cheaply made wear bar. Price: 129.00/hr with 5-12 hours of work. plus cost of wear bar. Question: Is there anyway to inspect the wear bar before taking it to the dealership and letting them have their way?

[sourdough]

The wear bar is about 5-6" inside the bottom edge under the slide. You can pull the slide out, pull down the seal and look at it with a flashlight. If you have room you can pull the slide in and look at it from the inside as well. On the inside you can only see a small portion at the end.

Make SURE the wear bar is crushed. My dealer told me that the only solution for mine was to pull the slides and replace the wear bars because they were causing the jerking and catching. I had them order a Teflon like material and install it on the bottom of the slides after I found that using Zep 45 stopped all the jerking and catching - it wasn't the wear bar. Now I don't have any issues. Also, make sure they can actually install rollers on your slide. Norco Accu-slide can probably guide you on that.

[chuckster57]

Most slides, if you put it out about 1/2 way, you can put a jack underneath and raise the slide for a better view.

Make darn sure you use a long 2X4 to spread the load and only lift about 2-3 inches. Lift one side at a time, not the whole slide.

[Dave W]

Resurrecting an oldie!!

Main slide, 149" long is tilting in the opening and appears to be dragging on one end bottom with the bottom right and top left verticler oom wall edge hitting or amost hitting the vertical framework. While not 100% confirmed, it looks like there are no rollers but only a wear guard.

- Can the slide be jacked up and a new wear guard installed? This collapsed wear guard is a known problem from what little I can dig out of the 'net

- Can I instead install several rollers plus some aluminum wear protectors as I did on a previous SOB 5er?

These are the rollers I've considered:
http://www.rvlocksandmore.com/core/m...e08026c4141b20

There are other types at that site as well http://www.rvlocksandmore.com/Outsid...de-Out-Rollers

[nied]

Take a look at the youtube video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgGEWmeojN0

[Dave W]

[QUOTE=nied;315710]Take a look at the youtube video /QUOTE]

That's exactly what I was looking for. Looks like I didn't put the right search terms in the You Tube site as I looked there as well as other places.

Thanks

[Dave W]

Just ordered 10 Lippert 276288 J-36 Service Roller from RVUgrades - unfortunately, probably can't install for a few months if that early dump of white stuff yesterday is an indicator of the winter. If they don't work -oh well they'll join a bunch of other 'things' tried and failed.

Gotta say that the BAL wear bar is a crappy (CHEAP!) design for a high 5 figure 5er

[Laredo Tugger]

I agree DaveW. How hard would it have been to install those rollers at the factory while the slide was off and the work surface was at belt height?
I do not have the same slide mechanism on my rig,but it's good to know that some after market rollers are available if I need to eliminate problems in the future.
Thanks
RMc

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by Laredo Tugger

I agree DaveW. How hard would it have been to install those rollers at the factory while the slide was off and the work surface was at belt height?
I do not have the same slide mechanism on my rig,but it's good to know that some after market rollers are available if I need to eliminate problems in the future.
Thanks
RMc

Just don't rush to order any rollers until I have my chance to see if they work on our 5er

One of us spending a couple hundred bucks is enough for now

[Laredo Tugger]

Copy that.
Iv'e got some inspection and research to do before I do anything.
Just wish I was close enough to buy the beer when you do your project in the spring.
Good luck.
RMc

[Frank G]

Bontragers Supply in White Pigeon MI has shelf's full of those rollers for about $5.00 each.

https://bontragers.com/


Trekwood shows a redesigned replacement for the OEM wear bar

http://www.trekwood.com/products/605...1-2-Black-168-

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by Frank G

Bontragers Supply in White Pigeon MI has shelf's full of those rollers for about $5.00 each.

https://bontragers.com/


Trekwood shows a redesigned replacement for the OEM wear bar

http://www.trekwood.com/products/605...1-2-Black-168-

Frank, thanks for your input.

Unfortunately Bontrager's never showed up in many hours of internet searching. Their website isn' too great for just a search either but will bookmaek for later possible use for other items

The wear bar you noted @~5 bucks/length is NLA (no longer available) and the incorrect version . The 'needed' one is about $53 + shipping. To install would require that my slides be removed - and something I can't do in my driveway

[JRTJH]

Dave W,

Bontrager's is not your "typical internet presence". Essentially their website is a "full page newspaper advertisement" type of website. They don't list any specific components, no prices, no ordering information. My "best guess" is that's because they are a "salvage operation" and their inventory changes day to day, depending on what "stuff they pick up" at salvage yards or as surplus from the RV manufacturers from whom they buy "last year's extras"....

Give them a call, (269) 483-7017 or (866) 483-7017. Their primary sales staff is fairly well versed on what they have, where it's located and how much they sell it for. If you can imagine a Big Lots, Harbor Freight, Ace Hardware and an old fashioned general store all rolled up and put in one building next to a loading dock that's adjacent to an RV salvage yard.... Well, that's sort of what Bontrager's would be......

They have definitely NOT entered the "Amazon functionality internet site" category. But they are an excellent source for "hard to find" RV stuff.

ADDED: Take a look at the pictures of their facility and stock located on the RV Parts webpage: https://bontragers.com/rv-supplies-accessories/ What you'll see are rows and rows of "stuff" some used, some new (out of boxes) some new, some last year's colors, some 10 years old, all "either functional or ready to disassemble to get that little part that broke". Everything from #2 Roberts screws in a barrel to Cummins diesel generators to doors, windows, screens, slide rollers, chairs, cabinet doors, furnace sail switches to "if you can imagine it, it's on the shelf, probably dusty but for sale"..... The photos will give you some idea why there's no "pick a tab internet sales page".....

[chuckster57]

Thinking out loud here: We "hyper extend" slides all the time to do lino work and I have replaced lower sweeper seals that look like what you describe. Granted we are talking about through the frame type, but I would suspect yu could do the same with a cable system. If your interested PM me and I can describe how we do it. Im thinking a 90 degree adapter or one of these will allow the needed room to remove/install fasteners.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-24-P...ol-Set/3387782

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Dave W,

Bontrager's is not your "typical internet presence". ....

John - if Bontrager's had at least shown on my 'net search, I might have given them a call as long as I had a part number.

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Thinking out loud here: We "hyper extend" slides all the time to do lino work and I have replaced lower sweeper seals that look like what you describe. Granted we are talking about through the frame type, but I would suspect yu could do the same with a cable system. If your interested PM me and I can describe how we do it. Im thinking a 90 degree adapter or one of these will allow the needed room to remove/install fasteners.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-24-P...ol-Set/3387782

Chuckster - when you say 'hyper extend, what does that mean to your needs. To me, it means that a slide would be forced beyond normal limits and not something that a DIY should be doing witout some special tooling, jacks or way to stop before an 'awwww s@#$' happened. These above the floor slides can be extended and then carefully jack up 2-3 inches. Would I need more? This is not a job that I can do for a while with the current snow and 2030 degrees that we have so may come back to you for guidance in Mar/April.

I like that tool though probably have every insert bit but no special wrench ... and since I never have enough tools and our local Lowe's has one in stock ....

[chuckster57]

Hyper extending involves taking the slide past its normal "stop". to do this you simply remove the "horseshoe" facia and go for it. In your case you would want someone to stand outside to verify the floor of the slide didn't go beyond the floor of the trailer. We use floor jacks and 2X6's to spread the load. and then jack it up. If you can lean the slide outwards it can be lifted above the top of the opening, giving you more room.

I agree its not for the faint at heart or novice DIYer.

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Hyper extending involves taking the slide past its normal "stop". to do this you simply remove the "horseshoe" facia and go for it. In your case you would want someone to stand outside to verify the floor of the slide didn't go beyond the floor of the trailer. We use floor jacks and 2X6's to spread the load. and then jack it up. If you can lean the slide outwards it can be lifted above the top of the opening, giving you more room.

I agree its not for the faint at heart or novice DIYer.

Thanks!
WEll, I am a bit faint of heart with the slide but as an 'advanced' DIYer and former (before electronics, etc.) auto mechanic, will give the jacks and 2x lumber a try ... even though I intend on doing the roller mod --- unless I can't for some reason and have to use the wear bar

[chuckster57]

Your very welcome. The first time I did it I thought the slide was going to fall out

[Dave W]

Got the rollers yesterday - and they will be returned. The rollers woild stand 1-1/8" from the frame vs 1/2". I could quite probably stand another 1/4" but not 5/8".

Back to the srawing board and probably use the 'improved' OEM wear bar

[Ourtyme]

All Hello!
I do realize that this post is a few months old, but I am in a similar predicament.
The rolling cabin is a 2017 Keystone Bullet 272BHS with a 12' slide box with side-by-side couch and dinning table.
A few weeks ago, I uncovered it and extended the slide and as described in numerous posts above, it chattered quite aggressively.
I did read other posts an noticed that the jam nuts on the cable stays were not tight, so I removed the trim, tightened the jam nuts ... no help!
I then read the sacred instructions from BAL and there was minimal improvement.
I then read that many recommended WD-40 with PTFE and decided to set aside the silicone can and give it a go ... it worked well!
However, as i was applying the lube to the wear bar, I noticed that both ends of the integrated wiper seal were being crushed by the slide and the center was not ... Hmm!
Well, I began to think more critically and realized that as the mid-point of the slide box floor did not have a bulk head, and there are not longitudinal reinforcement, the floor is arching up and the ends are bearing more of the load ... AND since keystone had mounted the wear bar on the carpet instead of the solid floor, the ends of the wear bar have sunk into the carpet and the "Bread-Loaf" shaped wear feature has been crushed ... as were my hopes to a quick fix.
I saw this thread and was encouraged, until i started measuring my existing Wear Bar and the dimensions of the J-36 Roller.
As Dave W. stated above, even if I cutout the carpet below each roller, I still have 0.3" of height being consumed by the J-36 Roller.
I have reached out to the Accuslide Team @ BAL and to Keystone to see if there is a roller solution or an integrated Wear Bar/Roller, but now replies yet.
I did purchase the extended warranty, but after some very minor repairs at the dealership, which required me improvising and modifying drywall anchors in a Walmart parking lot, I am not at all looking forward to approaching them.
I do apologize for the lengthy post, but if any of you have read a success story with either another style roller or even an upgraded wear bar, I would greatly appreciate any input!
Thank You!