Frame repair 5th wheel

SaskJames · 10-04-2019, 10:13 AM

Hello all, this is my first post, and my first 5er (and will be my last 5er)

I got my 5er new from an RV show (2017 Keystone Hideout 308BHDS), so the only mileage on it was from the manufacturer to the dealership.

I was coming back home to southern Saskatchewan from a trip up to Dawson City Yukon, when the front of the trailer squatted down on the box of my truck (I knew something broke).

I was in between communities, so I had no choice but to limp down the shoulder at a snail's pace to the nearest dealership.

The only thing I could think that could have caused it was an horrific bump I hit the evening before. No warning of a bump, and I hit it at full highway speed (normal load, NOT overloaded).

The dealership told me I had a broken pin box frame, and it's quite common with any trailer with a Lippert frame. They estimated the repairs would cost $8K best case, but couldn't repair it until much later in the off season.

Well I've tried to go through insurance as well as talking to my dealership back home. Both insurance as well as the dealership basically told me that I will most likely have to foot the bill myself. Excuse me?! What? It's not my fault the frame failed!

Well I opted to temporarily fix the frame in order to get the trailer home (over 1K km). So after almost 18 hrs of travel and multiple stops to re-weld the temp repair, the trailer is now home.

I've opened up the front to asses the repair, and I've decided to repair it myself (I've been an accomplished welder for almost 15 years). I've built 2 other trailers (car haulers) and 2 race cars over those 15 years, so I think I can handle a small frame re-engineer job like this.

What was immediately clear to me was the insufficient thickness of the frame members. With almost 1900 lbs of pin weight (dry weight) the thickness should be no less than 3/16". I would never have built a 35.5 foot long trailer with 5×2 inch 1/8 inch thick frame members. So, I'm gonna replace the entire front framework with 1/4 inch thick (effectively doubling the capacity of the framework or more).

Here are some before pictures. Hopefully I can complete this rebuild in a timely manner, because this frame failure seriously put a damper on my RV season.

Slapshoot · 10-04-2019, 01:35 PM

Wow! I am surprised SGI wouldn’t cover this repair. We will have to check out ours to see what is going on.

Sulphur1 · 10-04-2019, 02:42 PM

Thanks for sharing.
Disappointing to see this continually happening. I thought youhave better consumer protection over there. We hit large pot holes & had some minor damage inside. I dropped the filon under the hitch down & found no cracks or brocken welds. - could not remove front cap.
Did you just remove all the screws to release the cap & did it come off easily?

SaskJames · 10-04-2019, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slapshoot

Wow! I am surprised SGI wouldn’t cover this repair. We will have to check out ours to see what is going on.

SGI didn't outright say they wouldn't cover it, but they want a sample of the metal (for testing) and better pictures than the RV dealership sent.

The problem with insurance companies is they look for every way to not pay. However, the main reason I'm rebuilding it myself is I trust my own skills and work (I'm a bit of a perfectionist), and I also need the trailer fixed right away, not 6 months down the road.

SaskJames · 10-04-2019, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sulphur1

Thanks for sharing.
Disappointing to see this continually happening. I thought youhave better consumer protection over there. We hit large pot holes & had some minor damage inside. I dropped the filon under the hitch down & found no cracks or brocken welds. - could not remove front cap.
Did you just remove all the screws to release the cap & did it come off easily?

I removed all the trim and all but the very top middle screws. I didn't want the cap completely removed, so I left some in the middle at the top. In order to get the cap to pivot upwards, you'll need the edge screws removed up top (because of the shape of the cap). It's kind of trial and error. You need to remove the screws, one on each side of the top, until you can successfully pivot the cap up. By doing it that way, you'll have just enough room to work on the frame, while the screws at the top middle keep everything perfectly aligned.

roadglide · 10-05-2019, 07:57 AM

I am a retired uranium mine and coal mine welder. If the insurance company will not cover the repair. I would find some way to pull down on the front of the hitch come along hooked to a truck you might have to grind out the crack and weld it up and grind flush then I would use 3/16 fish plate as long and wide as possible spot weld that.

Sulphur1 · 11-03-2019, 11:05 AM

Hi SaskJames
How is your repair going?

SaskJames · 11-03-2019, 12:18 PM

The repair is complete. I dropped down in thickness of tubing to 3/16" because of weight and performance characteristics. I now have only 1/8" flex when hooked up instead of 1 1/2" to 2" when empty. Thats a dramatic improvement. I reinsulated with AyrFoil A2A foil insulation because The original insulation was a complete joke (I doubt is was even R-1) and my trailer is supposed to have the "cold mountain package" for subzero use. The cabinets are back in place, and I opted for linoleum instead of carpet (easier to clean) and I'm trimming it out with aromatic cedar (the kind used in closets). I also upgraded the springs to 3500 lb 6 leave leaf springs (it'll be a stiffer ride, but at least the springs are properly rated now. I found out that the springs the trailer came with (supposed to be 3000 lb springs) were actually only 2400 lb springs (made in China, not made in USA like Keystone and Dexter claim)

Sulphur1 · 11-04-2019, 03:47 AM

Thanks for your reply SaskJames.
Way to go! - I haven't thought of going through the floor as would have to remove bed slide. But much stronger result so will do.
I assume you welded the new frame to the existing sides and front frame (under cap) so as not to remove the outside walls.
Thanks again for sharing. Looks like a really strong repair, something you can be confident to take it anywhere.
Cheers Jon

SaskJames · 11-04-2019, 05:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sulphur1

Thanks for your reply SaskJames.
Way to go! - I haven't thought of going through the floor as would have to remove bed slide. But much stronger result so will do.
I assume you welded the new frame to the existing sides and front frame (under cap) so as not to remove the outside walls.
Thanks again for sharing. Looks like a really strong repair, something you can be confident to take it anywhere.
Cheers Jon

In order to weld completely (top and bottom) the floor must be removed unfortunately.

The sides are sistered to the existing frame members, and the front 2 cross members are replaced completely and all corners are gusseted for added strength.

I wanted to completely replace all the forward framework, however, that would have required the side walls to be removed to a point that would not have been possible without completely destroying the trailer.

rhagfo · 11-04-2019, 05:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SaskJames

SGI didn't outright say they wouldn't cover it, but they want a sample of the metal (for testing) and better pictures than the RV dealership sent.

The problem with insurance companies is they look for every way to not pay. However, the main reason I'm rebuilding it myself is I trust my own skills and work (I'm a bit of a perfectionist), and I also need the trailer fixed right away, not 6 months down the road.

This is the reason I do much of my own repairs!
I feel sorry for those that need to depend on the "Shop" to do even the smallest repair.

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