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Old 10-10-2019, 08:53 AM   #21
TYHLR
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While I don't have a Cougar I have a Keystone 40' fifth wheel with dual A/C.

As I live in FL and so far have only camped on the US east coast in the summer months, my one A/C in the living room will keep the camper in direct sunlight at a comfortable 75 with outside temps in the 90s to 100s. We only turn on the bedroom A/C when we go to bed and the camper temp will drop to below 70 if wanted.

As others have suggested make sure to check the duct sealing at the outlets, you will be surprised how shoddy the work is.

I would not buy a camper with less than 50 amp service.

Happy shopping.
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Old 10-10-2019, 09:18 AM   #22
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I just pulled the trim to replace the el cheapo bath Fan and saw that the roof insulation was 1-1/2” thick between the top chords of the roof joists. Very disappointed.
On another matter my one slide out collects water in the middle of the roof and the floor is sagging two ways. Looking underneath the exterior wall square tube support also is sagging. General RV passed it off as “ no one builds strong slide outs anymore”. This isn’t acceptable to me. The dinette chairs rock on three legs! Unfortunately I’m leaving for a long trip south so I’ll have to find another dealer or contact Keystone.
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Old 10-11-2019, 04:39 AM   #23
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Wiredgeorge...there are 2 types of portable air conditioners. One uses a single exhaust tube to eject the heated air created from the compressor, the second type a/c employs 2 tubes....one to exhaust the compressor's condenser coil and the other tube to bring in (make up air) air to replace the exhausted air. The air ejected by the single exhaust tube type a/c, is creating a negative pressure in your camper and thus exterior air with is temperature and humidity is being drawn into the camper through whatever means possible. This raw air from the outside, adds to the cooling load. The 2 tube type portable a/c overcomes this problem by bringing in a dedicated makeup air supply to cool the compressor's condenser coil. An example of a good 2 tube a/c is a Whynter ARC-14S (non heat pump) or ARC-14H (heat pump). I used one of the ventilation doors in the garage of my toy hauler to install the 2 vent hoses.
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:14 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacemkr53 View Post
2019 Cougar 315RLS (36')- Bought new, added the forward a/c. In Florida in June, with temps in the high 90's and humidity in the 80's we were comfortable. My set up requires 50 amps and the EMS showed we were drawing 40 to 43 amps. Saw the post about 3 a/c - concern is enough juice to run 3. IMHO
I think 3 A/Cs don't really run at the same time; I think some gizmo shifts the works between the three with two working at any one time. Could be mistaken but that is how I think it works. 50A just ain't enough for 3 simultaneously.
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:23 AM   #25
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Wiredgeorge...there are 2 types of portable air conditioners. One uses a single exhaust tube to eject the heated air created from the compressor, the second type a/c employs 2 tubes....one to exhaust the compressor's condenser coil and the other tube to bring in (make up air) air to replace the exhausted air. The air ejected by the single exhaust tube type a/c, is creating a negative pressure in your camper and thus exterior air with is temperature and humidity is being drawn into the camper through whatever means possible. This raw air from the outside, adds to the cooling load. The 2 tube type portable a/c overcomes this problem by bringing in a dedicated makeup air supply to cool the compressor's condenser coil. An example of a good 2 tube a/c is a Whynter ARC-14S (non heat pump) or ARC-14H (heat pump). I used one of the ventilation doors in the garage of my toy hauler to install the 2 vent hoses.
I bought the 8K LG unit (one outlet vented through the window via a "custom" piece of plywood and the plastic that came with the unit) at Best Buy. We made an emergency run to Best Buy after sitting in our camper at a park with no shade and triple digit temps. Inside the cabin was in the low 80s as I recall. Since, have done all the tricks to make our 15K BTU Dometic as effective as possible AND used dark tint on the windows. The LG isn't very great but helps keep the temp in the 77-78F range in those same shadeless triple digits. I am also going to look for a more effective fan; the one we have sits on a stand and oscillates and doesn't move much air.

Have considered bracing up the front bedroom vent hole and sticking another A/C in there (ductless) and running the wires to the side of the trailer and installing an outside outlet for plugging into the 20A outlet on most pedastals but will look into the portable you recommend. It would be easier to put an outside outlet on the wall where we use our current portable. I can't really vent into the pass through due the configuration of our 5ver so it will be out the window again.
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Old 10-25-2019, 08:09 PM   #26
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We have a 333 2016 model Cougar that is 38 ft long and we have 2 airs and in the summer we need both, the airs that come on the Cougar are Dometic and are somewhat loud but they cool the unit, we also use fans at the top of the stairs going into the bedroom and it helps with the cooling of the living area. When the weather gets into the 80s we just use the bedroom unit and blow the cold air into the living area . love the coach it travels well and has been somewhat trouble free.
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Old 10-25-2019, 10:05 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiredgeorge View Post
I think 3 A/Cs don't really run at the same time; I think some gizmo shifts the works between the three with two working at any one time. Could be mistaken but that is how I think it works. 50A just ain't enough for 3 simultaneously.
You are partially correct - Prior to Keystone's "Omni-Chill" system introduced in late 2018/early 2019, you are correct that trailers with 3 AC units were typically factory wired with a "power share" switch that only allowed 2 of 3 AC units to operate simultaneously.

However, when connected to a properly working "50A" shore service, your statement "50A just ain't enough for 3 simultaneously" would only be correct if an RV "50A" service was limited to only 50A. That is definitely not the case. Every RV 50A service is wired to provide 12,000 watts of power through a double pole/single throw 50A breaker. The 50A service box in a "50A" RV is split into two halves (A/B) with each half receiving a nominal 120VAC/50AAC service. 120v X 50a =6,000 watts for each side of the box, or 12,000 watts total. So a "50A" RV service is really a 100A service provided the load is equally spread between the two halves of the service. That's a function of what breakers are installed on each side of the service. That's just basic electricity.

Where the rub comes, and where you are right, is when you only have a 5500 watt generator. In that case, you are absolutely correct. Once the generator is de-rated for altitude and high ambient temperatures, it produces LESS than 50 amp and you are exactly right - "it ain't enough". And the situation is even worse if you can only plug in to a 30A service. I can't speak for Keystone, but I'm guessing that's why they wired the new ones for only running 2 of 3 AC's. If you are not already bored to tears , there is detailed information in the following thread. Take a look at the attachments in post #2 of this thread.

http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...ad.php?t=39365

Here's a nice explanation of the "50A" RV service. I got this from the forum year's ago and don't remember exactly who put this together - so I can't give them credit.

50-amp Service.pdf
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Old 11-04-2019, 09:59 PM   #28
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The one thing that I did and not finish with it yet but I took off the a/c and tape up between the duct and the ceiling, see pics. I will also show you the a/c in the bedroom on how they did it, most of them from any factory are the same.

Putting the cover back on I took off the black ring and just use the 3M tape. I found out that the black plastic ring around the vent cover don't always meet with the a/c duct so you will have cold air leak that goes between the ceiling and the duct.
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Old 11-04-2019, 10:06 PM   #29
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Now this is the a/c in the bedroom and even though I couldn't get good pics because it was getting late and it was dark you will see that the divider is off center, that need to be tape up with 3M tape so it will divide the hot air from the cold air.
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Old 11-05-2019, 03:45 AM   #30
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We had a 2010 Cougar 318 SAB 34' which had 2 A/C units. Never been in Texas but have spent summers in South Carolina with temps in the high 90's and humidity around 80 %. Never had a problem staying cool in our RV weather parked in full sun or shade. Just trader up to a 2019 Montana 3721RL which also has 2 A/C units.
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Old 11-05-2019, 06:35 AM   #31
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One thing I have not seen mentioned is Slideout Covers. These keep the direct sun off the roof of the slideout and helps keep the rig cooler.
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Old 06-18-2023, 01:15 PM   #32
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Wiredgeorge...there are 2 types of portable air conditioners. One uses a single exhaust tube to eject the heated air created from the compressor, the second type a/c employs 2 tubes....one to exhaust the compressor's condenser coil and the other tube to bring in (make up air) air to replace the exhausted air. The air ejected by the single exhaust tube type a/c, is creating a negative pressure in your camper and thus exterior air with is temperature and humidity is being drawn into the camper through whatever means possible. This raw air from the outside, adds to the cooling load. The 2 tube type portable a/c overcomes this problem by bringing in a dedicated makeup air supply to cool the compressor's condenser coil. An example of a good 2 tube a/c is a Whynter ARC-14S (non heat pump) or ARC-14H (heat pump). I used one of the ventilation doors in the garage of my toy hauler to install the 2 vent hoses.
Just wanted to update information about another recent entry into the product line of supplemental air conditioning. This unit is made by Midea one of the largest manufacturers world wide of air conditioning products. This freestanding unit incorporates the 2 tubes into a single oval hose design that provides both inlet air and egress of heated exhaust air. The compressor is of the latest advance in compressor technology i.e. inverter brushless design. The 12,000 btu unit runs on a fraction of what a 15K rooftop unit would, and delivers 100% of it’s cool directly into a room rather than have it pass through a hot attic space. It is ideally suited to installing it in a toy hauler’s garage area or a dining slide out.

Midea Duo 12,000 BTU (10,000 BTU SACC) HE Inverter Ultra Quiet Portable Air Conditioner, Cools up to 450 Sq. Ft., Works with Alexa/Go...

https://a.co/d/bwqnbuu
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Old 06-18-2023, 07:54 PM   #33
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As it turns out, I installed a Midea window unit earlier this year to avoid running our central air unit. It works great (10K BTU). I also have a mini-split in the main living room and can keep the house really cool without cranking on our central air which gets expensive running on triple digit days. The Midea window unit is virtually silent.

https://www.amazon.com/Midea-Inverte...zcF9hdGY&psc=1
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Old 06-19-2023, 05:36 AM   #34
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That’s the good stuff, by George!
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Old 06-19-2023, 09:20 AM   #35
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All of the "stand alone/free-standing air conditioners and heat pumps" we've owned have had issues with how to dispose of the collected condensation caused by the cooling process. One of ours, a Soleus free standing unit, claimed to use the condensation to "cool the unit and move the moisture out through the vent hose"... Worked well in the desert where there was limited hunidity, didn't work worth a hoot in Louisiana where there was high humidity and barely could keep up for 3 or 4 hours before the unit shut itself off when the drip pan was full....

For that reason, we wound up putting the A/C unit up on blocks of wood with a larger pan under it so we could extend the "time to shutoff" long enough so we could sleep through the night without it shutting off.

Does this new unit have a solution to how to dispose of the condensation effectively ???
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Old 06-19-2023, 10:48 AM   #36
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All of the "stand alone/free-standing air conditioners and heat pumps" we've owned have had issues with how to dispose of the collected condensation caused by the cooling process. One of ours, a Soleus free standing unit, claimed to use the condensation to "cool the unit and move the moisture out through the vent hose"... Worked well in the desert where there was limited hunidity, didn't work worth a hoot in Louisiana where there was high humidity and barely could keep up for 3 or 4 hours before the unit shut itself off when the drip pan was full....

For that reason, we wound up putting the A/C unit up on blocks of wood with a larger pan under it so we could extend the "time to shutoff" long enough so we could sleep through the night without it shutting off.

Does this new unit have a solution to how to dispose of the condensation effectively ???
I’ve not dissected one of these, but having owned them (but not in Louisiana), I believe the hot condenser air plays a significant part in evaporating the condensate into the airstream. The Whynter units operate for days, sometime weeks without need of draining them. Was the Soleus unit a single tube design? I ask that because if it was a single tube design, then it is pulling huge amounts of outside air into the interior, which then has to be dehumidified. 2 tube design units continuously reduce the interior moisture whereas single tube units add to the problem. I liked Carrier’s AirV RV roof unit, which deployed the condensate directly onto the condenser coil to evaporate it and boost cooling of the condensing coil. It was rare to see condensate on the roof. We are currently in a small town in south Texas. The temp this week without correction for humidity will be 113. Humidity is expected to be 40-64 depending on time of day, making the perceived temp 121. As long as we minimize entering and exiting, there has been very little condensate off the roof.
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Old 06-19-2023, 12:09 PM   #37
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We bought a 14K btu portable about 3 years ago. Brand Ningpu. Here is part of the description:

SELF-EVAPORATION - Automatic self-evaporation technology - no bucket to empty (except in some high humidity area) - Built-in dehumidifier removes up to 50 pints/24 hours with continuous drain option for long unattended operation. Condensing water can Pump to Evaporator self to support energy and make high efficient .

It does have a bucket and facility for a hose; the bucket can not be removed... you must roll the unit a couple of feet to our steps and open the drain fitting. It seldom has needed draining and most of the time nothing collects. We do get a bit of humidity where we live. Weather Channel says it is currently 100F with 43% humidity and this is fairly normal for our summers here; perhaps a couple degrees warmer at time. The WC says it feels like it is 111F. All that said, I have found the auto-self evap feature works pretty well. The portable A/C is a necessary augment to the Dometic Brisk II on the roof in this part of Texas...
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Old 06-19-2023, 12:46 PM   #38
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The Soleus heat pump we have only uses a single "cooling tube" to the window. Inside it is a divider, so I'm not sure if it's a "true dual cooling hose" or a "modified single hose" or a "hybrid dual/single or some other type of cooling hose"... All I can "verify" is that the owner's manual states it uses the condensate to cool the evaporator to improve remove of excess water and eliminate the need to empty the collection pan (except in high humidity conditions)... We couldn't use it in Louisiana because it filled up and the automatic shutoff would disable the heat pump after 3 or 4 hours of operation. In Michigan, in 80F temps and 90+ % humidity, it might run for 5 hours before the pan is full and the unit stops running.

My question was more along the lines of "Does this new Midea unit actually run for extended times in high humidity areas or does it have the same problem as other "free standing units" when it's 85F, raining outside and feels like you're walking on sponges with "wet feeling carpet" ???

Hopefully, they've found a solution that'll keep the unit running, the air "dehumidified" and the room cool... Our "state of the art Soleus" that's 3 years old doesn't accomplish that any better than our 20 year old "when they first came out" unit did.... Maybe technology has improved ??? Then again, on ours, it hadn't.....
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Old 06-19-2023, 01:49 PM   #39
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The Soleus heat pump we have only uses a single "cooling tube" to the window. Inside it is a divider, so I'm not sure if it's a "true dual cooling hose" or a "modified single hose" or a "hybrid dual/single or some other type of cooling hose"... All I can "verify" is that the owner's manual states it uses the condensate to cool the evaporator to improve remove of excess water and eliminate the need to empty the collection pan (except in high humidity conditions)... We couldn't use it in Louisiana because it filled up and the automatic shutoff would disable the heat pump after 3 or 4 hours of operation. In Michigan, in 80F temps and 90+ % humidity, it might run for 5 hours before the pan is full and the unit stops running.

My question was more along the lines of "Does this new Midea unit actually run for extended times in high humidity areas or does it have the same problem as other "free standing units" when it's 85F, raining outside and feels like you're walking on sponges with "wet feeling carpet" ???

Hopefully, they've found a solution that'll keep the unit running, the air "dehumidified" and the room cool... Our "state of the art Soleus" that's 3 years old doesn't accomplish that any better than our 20 year old "when they first came out" unit did.... Maybe technology has improved ??? Then again, on ours, it hadn't.....
Something isn’t right. Condensate should not be sent back to the evaporator coil where it just came from. Could it be the condenser coil is where the condensation is being routed to? As for the single tube you have, if it is approx 5” round, I’d guess it is not a dual inlet/outlet configuration. The Midea has an oval tube that clearly has a discernible second passage within the large single tube. As I said earlier, single exhaust only units invite more humidity in than they can remove. Another plus to the midea is the inverter drive compressor. It is quiet and very energy stingy. Inverter compressors can be operated variable outputs to achieve optimum dehumidification and output. To fully answer your question, yes, the longer I the Midea unit continuously operates the air gets drier and drier. An evaporator coil saturated with condensate insulates the metal fins of the coil, thus air passing through the coil does not absorb heat from the passing air. As the room air dries, the evaporator coil become more efficient at doing its job (because it is more dry). For example, a soggy evap coil may only cool the passing air 10-12 degrees, but as the build up of condensate reduces, the air temp may drop 17+ degrees per pass. A single hose freestanding unit will never achieve it’s optimum output nor stop producing condensate. Hope this makes sense.
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Old 06-19-2023, 02:26 PM   #40
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I "mis-spoke" when I said the Soleus I have uses the condensate to cool the evaporator coils. I think it says something along the lines of using that condensate to cool the compressor and the condenser coils which evaporate the condensation for discharge through the vent system. I was speaking from memory and can't find the owner's manual right now to see exactly how it was worded....

Anyway, whatever it does to "evaporate and remove the excess moisture", the majority of it ends up in the bottom of the unit, in a pan that when full, causes the unit to shut down. So, it's pretty much not reliable to cool a bedroom or a garage workshop for very long before it stops working... When it works, it cools great, but when the pan is full, it stops working. That's why I sat it up on blocks with a gallon milk jug under it to get extended run times...

It sounds like the Midea unit has solved that issue or at least extended it enough that the unit will run longer than a few hours in humid weather. That's good to know for future reference if we start looking at another free standing unit. Thanks for the info.
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