What hitch?

[BlackNoir]

We're getting a 2017 Keystone Cougar Xlite 28RDB Fifth Wheel and I have no clue what I should get for the hitch. The truck has a long box so I don't think I need a Slider?

Thanks,
Shay

[chuckster57]

You don't need a slider that's for sure. Your going to get lots of different brands mentioned, I will only say this: make sure you get a hitch rated for your trailer. My current hitch is rated for 14K and my current fiver is 10240 GVWR.
You will probably hear someone recommend the Anderson Ultimate hitch. It is a goose neck style, and if your frame is made by Lippert, Lippert won't honor any frame related warranty work. Anderson offers their own "guarantee" but I haven't seen any documentation of a case involving Lippert frame damage using the Anderson hitch.

I'm not against the Anderson, just want to make sure your aware of Lippert's position.

[bsmith0404]

Yes, make sure its rated for the weight of your 5er, but overboard isn't a bad thing. I would recommend one rated a bit over your truck max. I started out with a 16k hitch and a 9k lb 5er. Upgraded to a 13k lb 5er, still good. Upgraded to a 15k lb 5er, to close for comfort for me. I also upgraded to a 3500 dually. Decided to get a 20k hitch, if I ever decide to get a heavier trailer (I don't see that coming), I'm still good. I like the Reese Elite with the single jaw. There are several great hitches, B&W, Curt, and Reese are your most popular brands. Weight for removal is also a consideration. Mine is fairly heavy, but by pulling 2 pins I can separate the head from the legs which make it a very manageable removal. I can pull it and install it in less than 5 mins each.

Also, get a set of these...https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Locks/Reese/RP58093.html, you will know that your hitch will always be there and secured.

[gkainz]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

You don't need a slider that's for sure. Your going to get lots of different brands mentioned, I will only say this: make sure you get a hitch rated for your trailer. My current hitch is rated for 14K and my current fiver is 10240 GVWR.
You will probably hear someone recommend the Anderson Ultimate hitch. It is a goose neck style, and if your frame is made by Lippert, Lippert won't honor any frame related warranty work. Anderson offers their own "guarantee" but I haven't seen any documentation of a case involving Lippert frame damage using the Anderson hitch.

I'm not against the Anderson, just want to make sure your aware of Lippert's position.

Sorry, Chuckster57, but this is just not correct. The Andersen "attaches" to a gooseneck ball, but is NOT a "gooseneck style" hitch. The gooseneck adapters that Lippert and other frame manufacturers warn against and do void warranties on are true gooseneck adapters, that extend the king pin of the standard 5th wheel box down to the gooseneck ball, and thereby multiply the torque against the 5er frame. That can and does cause frame damage in some cases.

Andersen raises a ball to an adapter block mounted ON the king pin, and does not add any additional torque to the 5er pin box and frame.

However, to the OPs request, if he doesn't already have a gooseneck ball hitch (which he didn't mention), then the Andersen gives him no advantages and I wouldn't recommend it to him.

Greg

[NorskeBob]

I have used Husky 16K hitches since 2003 - never any problems with them. It came with the purchase of the fifth wheel. I replaced the hitch this year - liked the newer re-design of the hitch. The new hitch has been an improvement.

[chuckster57]

Not here to argue, but I have the letter from LCI that states the Anderson IS a goose neck STYLE and therefore not covered under LIPPERT'S frame warranty, the Reese GOOSE BOX is the only goose neck STYLE that they will cover.

Goose neck STYLE involves a BALL and SOCKET no matter how it's configured. To each their own.

[Desert185]

Its my understanding that Lippert has approved the Andersen Ultimate hitch (24K and 4500# pin weight).

A ball and socket does not make it a gooseneck hitch, because there is no neck. The neck on a true gooseneck hitch is what puts the strain on the fifth wheel trailer adapted with a gooseneck hitch.

www.andersenhitches.com

Call Lippert and Andersen for the latest info.

[fireman1317]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Not here to argue, but I have the letter from LCI that states the Anderson IS a goose neck STYLE and therefore not covered under LIPPERT'S frame warranty, the Reese GOOSE BOX is the only goose neck STYLE that they will cover.



Goose neck STYLE involves a BALL and SOCKET no matter how it's configured. To each their own.

Of course for arguments sake, Lippert used to be big fans of the Andersen hitch until Lippert bought Reese. At that point they changed their stance and decided to push their own product. No conflict of interest or anything.[emoji849]


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[mtofell]

Love my B/W hitch. I know there are a lot of other quality ones out there as well. The main thing I'd tell you is you get what you pay for. I had a cheap Reese once and it was a nightmare. I literally had to carry a rubber mallet with me at all times to pound the latch pin into place. The B/W moves like Butter.

[Don N.]

I have had the "standard" 5th wheel hitch configuration; the hitch was heavy, awkward to install and remove, clunky sounding, and the rails were always in the way in the truck bed. I'm a first time user of the B/W and Anderson Ultimate goose neck system and I like it very much. I recently installed the "ball funnel" on the receiver block attached to the king pin and it makes trailer hookup a breeze. (An upgraded goose neck ball also came with the funnel from Anderson). I would strongly recommend the B/W and Anderson hitch system. I have never heard about the Lippert guarantee thing with Anderson. I suggest calling Anderson and ask them.

[cardinal96ss]

Love the B&W setup. Easy to use and solid.

[fatcatzzz]

For peace of mind, put me down for the B&W.

[Bolo4u]

I have a B&W hitch in my truck (for the Ram built-in puck system) it has been awesome! The only issue I have, is the little piston attached to the head plate, (to dampen side-to-side/rocking movement?) has a leak at the top seal. I haven't noticed that it has caused any issues, but I'm calling them Monday to see if I can get a replacement.

I'd like to see B&W come out with an aluminum "lightweight" base to help make it easier to install/remove. Demco has come out with a 21k lightweight hitch.

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[Desert185]

Originally Posted by Bolo4u

I have a B&W hitch in my truck (for the Ram built-in puck system) it has been awesome! The only issue I have, is the little piston attached to the head plate, (to dampen side-to-side/rocking movement?) has a leak at the top seal. I haven't noticed that it has caused any issues, but I'm calling them Monday to see if I can get a replacement.

I'd like to see B&W come out with an aluminum "lightweight" base to help make it easier to install/remove. Demco has come out with a 21k lightweight hitch.

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Want lightweight, no leaks, minimal moving parts? Gooseneck ball or rail attachment. 24,000# capability.

www.andersenhitches.com

[Bolo4u]

Originally Posted by Desert185

Want lightweight, no leaks, minimal moving parts? Gooseneck ball or rail attachment. 24,000# capability.



www.andersenhitches.com

Thanks, but I don't have any desire to convert my pin box into something it's not. I'm very happy with what I have and use, but an aluminum base option would be the "à la mode" to a still-warm slice of fresh peach pie.


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[Frank G]

Lots to consider, Has the bed any considerations for mounting the hitch? Are you going to install industry standard rails? At that point any old hitch will work. Yes they all work. I use a Curt E-16 and it works just fine. The used market is full of hitches. All depends what you want. Some hitches clamp the pin tighter than others. (Less chucking noise) This is not always dependent on the hitch. When I was pulling with the F250 we had lots of chucking noise. When we switched the hitch to the Ram it all disappeared. Who knows.

In my decision making process I would put more consideration on how many miles I intend to use it in the next 5 years. Second would be, do I want (need) a clear bed for other things. If I do then I would install a removable goose ball and get the Reese Goose box. Simple.

[Desert185]

Originally Posted by Frank G

Lots to consider, Has the bed any considerations for mounting the hitch? Are you going to install industry standard rails? At that point any old hitch will work. Yes they all work. I use a Curt E-16 and it works just fine. The used market is full of hitches. All depends what you want. Some hitches clamp the pin tighter than others. (Less chucking noise) This is not always dependent on the hitch. When I was pulling with the F250 we had lots of chucking noise. When we switched the hitch to the Ram it all disappeared. Who knows.

In my decision making process I would put more consideration on how many miles I intend to use it in the next 5 years. Second would be, do I want (need) a clear bed for other things. If I do then I would install a removable goose ball and get the Reese Goose box. Simple.

I Googled Reese Goose Box and found:

Goose Box, $900-$1000
Andersen, $500.

One man's simple is another's pie ala mode (whatever that means).

I'm going back to my cave.

[Bolo4u]

Originally Posted by Desert185

I Googled Reese Goose Box and found:



Goose Box, $900-$1000

Andersen, $500.



One man's simple is another's pie ala mode (whatever that means).



I'm going back to my cave.

Sorry to offend your simplicity. You do what works best for you, by "modifying" your hitch. I'm still in my warranty period and find the standard pin box just fine for my needs, and I don't have to worry about re tightening the part that attaches to the pin.

The pie a la mode reference was just relating to; if BW made an aluminum base (lighter) it would be a nice option. Our is great alone, add ice cream, it's even better.


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[Frank G]

Originally Posted by Desert185

I Googled Reese Goose Box and found:

Goose Box, $900-$1000
Andersen, $500.

One man's simple is another's pie ala mode (whatever that means).

I'm going back to my cave.

Price is only one factor. You still have to use wrenches to remove the Anderson thing from the truck, don't you? Are torque wrenches required for reinstallation? If you are at Home Depot and you need your truck to be a truck how do you get this Anderson thingy out and where do you put it. Just saying.

Having been through this hitch thing for 50 years, I would much rather have a clean bed with removable Ball and a corresponding coupler on the trailer. Sometimes even bed rails get in the way. At this point in my life I have bed rails a sliding hitch and it never leaves the truck, it is simply a tow vehicle. I am trying to give the OP ideas to think about.

[Desert185]

Originally Posted by Frank G

Price is only one factor. You still have to use wrenches to remove the Anderson thing from the truck, don't you? Are torque wrenches required for reinstallation? If you are at Home Depot and you need your truck to be a truck how do you get this Anderson thingy out and where do you put it. Just saying.

Having been through this hitch thing for 50 years, I would much rather have a clean bed with removable Ball and a corresponding coupler on the trailer. Sometimes even bed rails get in the way. At this point in my life I have bed rails a sliding hitch and it never leaves the truck, it is simply a tow vehicle. I am trying to give the OP ideas to think about.

The hitch comes out in two minutes by loosening three bolts that aren't removed. I have a BW turnover ball. No rails. There is a railed version if one does not have a turnover ball in the bed.

If going to Lowes, the steel 75# version of the hitch has already been removed, as it comes out as soon as I get home. If on the road, I can put the hitch in the toy hauler's garage. The aluminum version weighs 35#. Both are 24,000# hitches.

When installing, the main bolt is tightened to 50# and the other two are 40#...with a torque wrench like I use for the trailer's lug bolts. The coupler only needs to be checked once a year. It also is 40# with a 1/4" allen socket.

I find this entire process pretty simple, particularly when removing the hitch to convert the pickup back into a pickup from being a tow vehicle.

There is no warrantee issue. Andersen Hitches has a backup $5 million policy to cover any problems that might occur. After over 10,000 hitches sold, not one has ever created a problem with the trailer or failed. Read the policy on their website.

Less money, less weight, easily removed, no moving parts, no leaks, no clunking, no failures, more simple.

Watch the videos on www.andersenhitches.com.

If no one else buys it, no offense, just trying to point out facts, fallacies and any misunderstandings.

FWIW...YMMV...works for me.