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Old 03-16-2017, 11:48 AM   #21
dcg9381
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Bob is right - the only issue you'll have with non-purchase service is during the first 12-months of warranty work. After that, they'll be happy to service whatever unit you bring in at their standard book rate (you're paying).
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Old 03-19-2017, 07:17 PM   #22
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That's a dealer I wouldn't think of using once my TT was of warranty. I would call or visit them again and make sure you were around a person or two who was looking at buying from them. Our first TT was purchased and they were not a very good service company. Did this, they lost a couple of sales, and apologized, but never used them. Took it to the place we just bought a Cougar 30RLI, 2017 after knowing that any issues, the service department would be there for us.
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:31 AM   #23
ctbruce
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Reality, what a concept...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Dougie View Post
B-O-B'03, Thanks, I did the research and repair myself too. But my main concern is with the Dealer Network. I am concerned that if the refusal of dealerships to service RV's that are not purchased from them becomes common, the resale value of my used RV will drop dramatically. I like to keep my vehicles up to date and assume I will do the same with my TT. If you cannot get a used RV serviced it becomes a pretty big problem and will make a used unit less attractive to a potential buyer.
While I completely agree with you, you are thinking about car dealers and warranties and comparing them to RV dealers and warranties. Other than they both sell something with wheels and their new vehicles have warranties, the comparisons stop there.

Warranty work is up to the dealer and not guaranteed. That is just the way it is. If you bought it from a dealer, new or used, I would take it back to the dealer. If you bought it from an individual, chances are the warranty is out and I would take it to whoever most people around Potosi use. You may have to go to Steeleville or to West Plains, but you do have options. Ask around. Others will help. Go to a campground by you and ask who people use. Word of mouth is always a good indicator of satisfaction.

Good luck, and enjoy your camper. Remember, all campers, regardless of manufacturer, use the same suppliers for the pieces they assemble. You do not need to go to the Keystone Dealer to get a Keystone serviced. In a way, that makes it even easier on you. I hope that this helps. If you go to Steeleville, get some Missouri Hick Bar-B-Que.
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Old 04-25-2017, 07:03 AM   #24
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All the comments here are great! and I apologize in advance for ranting. I had a 2015 Jayco that had a few quality control issues such as wood frame bolts to the steel frame hand tightened, sharp corner on one of the short walls going into the MB (that cut me), heater vents not screwed into anything (hole too big), creaking floor where a seem was poorly fastened, etc.. One of the reasons I switched to Keystone and wonder if I made a bigger mistake... Na, I will work through it all and make the best out of it until its paid off.

The brand new 2017 Outback Ultra Lite 293UBH I just traded for also has issues (lots of issues) that are even worse. I won't go through all of them but one that really has me concerned is the roof and its construction. As I was installing a roof vent cover yesterday, I noticed the roof to be very thin (my knee almost went through it) and the rafters were spaced very far apart (24"). Like they used 1/8" luan plywood as decking. Even the Jayco had a really solid roof.

I did expect some QC issues here and there and light weight materials to make it an ultra lite, just not a cheap thin roof. Some may be made better than others but my point is, we all pay a premium for them and I would think the manufacturer would want to have a good name based on quality materials and workmanship. If I start to see the roof giving way, I will test the 12 year warranty.

Again, sorry for the rant, I feel better now.
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Old 04-25-2017, 07:43 AM   #25
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According to the Keystone website, the decking on your trailer is 3/8" OSB and the roof joists are 16" on center. If you are convinced (and can prove) that they joists are 24" on center, I'd urge you to contact your dealership to confirm what you have and get Keystone to repair/replace the deficient construction.

You might want to contact Keystone Customer Service at (866) 425-4369 to confirm whether your RV has a walkable roof. Many RV's in the "ultra-light" category from all manufacturers have gone to a "non-walkable roof" structure. Chances are that they will tell you to stay off the roof and that it is not strong enough to carry your weight. That's one of the "prices we pay" for "reduced construction weight" which gives us large RV's that are towable by smaller vehicles. Another "less than optimum strength" feature is the floor. It's constructed of two very thin sheets of luan bonded to 2" of foam, much like the walls are constructed. It is not as strong as the "old, heavy 7/8" solid floor construction" that you probably had in your Jayco. A word of caution, if you jump heavily on the floor, landing on your heels, you may find that you damage the floor structure. That's yet another of the modifications to achieve "ultra light" travel trailers.

As for "testing the roof 12 year warranty", read very carefully: The 12 year warranty is only on the TPO membrane. It covers manufacturer defects in the material only, it does not cover the installation, the underlayment or any damage caused by leaking sealant, mechanical damage (like walking on a "non-walkable roof")
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Old 04-25-2017, 08:57 AM   #26
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I recently installed a 3rd air conditioner on my 2016 Outback 325BH. I installed it in a place where no provision existed, which is to say I had to cut the hole in the roof and run Romex to it.

I can confirm the use of OSB and 16" on-center roof trusses.

Here is a pic or two:

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Note: I only included pics relevant to this discussion... and did not include ones relevant to the ac install as to not hijack.


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Old 04-25-2017, 02:31 PM   #27
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Thanks for the feedback.
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Old 04-25-2017, 02:49 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
According to the Keystone website, the decking on your trailer is 3/8" OSB and the roof joists are 16" on center. If you are convinced (and can prove) that they joists are 24" on center, I'd urge you to contact your dealership to confirm what you have and get Keystone to repair/replace the deficient construction.

You might want to contact Keystone Customer Service at (866) 425-4369 to confirm whether your RV has a walkable roof. Many RV's in the "ultra-light" category from all manufacturers have gone to a "non-walkable roof" structure. Chances are that they will tell you to stay off the roof and that it is not strong enough to carry your weight. That's one of the "prices we pay" for "reduced construction weight" which gives us large RV's that are towable by smaller vehicles. Another "less than optimum strength" feature is the floor. It's constructed of two very thin sheets of luan bonded to 2" of foam, much like the walls are constructed. It is not as strong as the "old, heavy 7/8" solid floor construction" that you probably had in your Jayco. A word of caution, if you jump heavily on the floor, landing on your heels, you may find that you damage the floor structure. That's yet another of the modifications to achieve "ultra light" travel trailers.

As for "testing the roof 12 year warranty", read very carefully: The 12 year warranty is only on the TPO membrane. It covers manufacturer defects in the material only, it does not cover the installation, the underlayment or any damage caused by leaking sealant, mechanical damage (like walking on a "non-walkable roof")
Thanks John! Do you know if the floor is a solid lamination of only luan and foam or is there welded aluminum 2"x2" framing in there? According to some research I did, it indicated the floor and sides have welded 2"x2" framing with laminated plywood/foam for a stronger application. The salesman also indicated it was and also told me the roof was the best in the business (I knew that was BS the second he said it).

I guess if the roof is "non-walkable" ( I will call and find out tomorrow), I can cut some plywood and adhere some carpet to one side to lay down on top of the roof between the rafters if needed while working up there. Hopefully I won't since all the seams around vents look very well covered by sealant. The TV antenna bolts were very very loose too but not a big deal since I was able to tighten them.

Anyway, Thanks for the information and feedback as it is much appreciated!
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Old 04-27-2017, 03:25 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
According to the Keystone website, the decking on your trailer is 3/8" OSB and the roof joists are 16" on center. If you are convinced (and can prove) that they joists are 24" on center, I'd urge you to contact your dealership to confirm what you have and get Keystone to repair/replace the deficient construction.

You might want to contact Keystone Customer Service at (866) 425-4369 to confirm whether your RV has a walkable roof. Many RV's in the "ultra-light" category from all manufacturers have gone to a "non-walkable roof" structure. Chances are that they will tell you to stay off the roof and that it is not strong enough to carry your weight. That's one of the "prices we pay" for "reduced construction weight" which gives us large RV's that are towable by smaller vehicles. Another "less than optimum strength" feature is the floor. It's constructed of two very thin sheets of luan bonded to 2" of foam, much like the walls are constructed. It is not as strong as the "old, heavy 7/8" solid floor construction" that you probably had in your Jayco. A word of caution, if you jump heavily on the floor, landing on your heels, you may find that you damage the floor structure. That's yet another of the modifications to achieve "ultra light" travel trailers.

As for "testing the roof 12 year warranty", read very carefully: The 12 year warranty is only on the TPO membrane. It covers manufacturer defects in the material only, it does not cover the installation, the underlayment or any damage caused by leaking sealant, mechanical damage (like walking on a "non-walkable roof")

I too thought it was a 3/8" decked roof until I almost went through it. It is in fact 1/4" decking. Its harder to prove 24" centers unless I tear up a section. When I was on the roof, I could tell the joist were far apart due to the cracking and bowing. If it were 16" centers it would not have done that. I attached a few pics showing the 1/4" decking which I exposed by removing 4 screws on the roof vent trim. I will definitely contact Keystone in the morning and report it. Just from what I have seen, it's definitely a non-walkable roof. This should have been covered in the PDI (at least I think so).

Thank you very much for the information, it is much appreciated!
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Old 04-27-2017, 05:11 PM   #30
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I will check these out too. We have an "eek, eek, eek" while walking in the trailer that I think is front to back sway. Don't mind the sway...used to boats...hate the eek. we have a 2016 Bullet 212rb. We think it is built pretty good compared to some others we looked at. Towed it to Phoenix AZ with our Nissan Frontier it tows well.
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Old 04-28-2017, 04:00 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamperDave View Post
I too thought it was a 3/8" decked roof until I almost went through it. It is in fact 1/4" decking. Its harder to prove 24" centers unless I tear up a section. When I was on the roof, I could tell the joist were far apart due to the cracking and bowing. If it were 16" centers it would not have done that. I attached a few pics showing the 1/4" decking which I exposed by removing 4 screws on the roof vent trim. I will definitely contact Keystone in the morning and report it. Just from what I have seen, it's definitely a non-walkable roof. This should have been covered in the PDI (at least I think so).

Thank you very much for the information, it is much appreciated!
Here are the pics I took closeup of the roof decking by removing the vent trim inside. A closer look at the studs did measure 16" center in this area.
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Old 07-18-2017, 04:28 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcwyatt View Post
Just purchased a 2yr old Keystone 252BH. Made a few observations going thru cleaning and such. Things found: J-steel couch only fastened down on one side; hinges on queen bed, left hinge on top of platform, right hinge under platform; fresh water sensors not connected; numerous screws driven in sideways; utilities coming thru the floor with no sealant around them; one small dot of silicone in the boot for the tv antenna. There aren't any apparent design defects that I found so it seems that all this stuff is assembler oriented. My last unit was a Jayco and I have to say the quality of assembly was a lot better. Is this common with the Keystone brand? I have no problem with correcting all of these problems but it seems to me that the company should take more pride in their workmanship.
I also own the 252BH and we love it. I have encountered some of the same issues you have, but have since fixed them and have replaced several things. I had a leak around our antenna, which just needed a little silicone. My dad has owned a lot of TT's over the years and out of all of them has really enjoyed his Passport probably the most. I think Keystone makes a good solid product, but just like anything else things will slip through the cracks. However, it makes for a good way to get your hands dirty and learn a ton of stuff about your rig. I know I have and it has been a great starter TT for us. Owned it for a little over a year and have almost hit our 20th trip mark. I'm new to this forum. Is there a way to follow you or have friends on here? I would love to stay in touch. Enjoy your Passport.
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