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Old 02-12-2019, 02:43 PM   #1
jmorse62
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Toyota Sequoia @ Hideout LHS177

I am new to towing and will be using a 2005 Toyota Sequoia with V8 to tow a 2017 Hideout 177LHS. I have read a lot about anti sway setups and equalizer hitches but really have no idea what is best to hook these two together for safe easy towing. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 02-12-2019, 03:17 PM   #2
Retired Copper
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First off welcome. You probably will get a few different opinions on the subject but I will tell you what I would tell my best friend or a family member. I have tried a few hitches but I can say that the Equalizer 4 point sway control worked for me on two different setups and I am not afraid to recommend it. Now there are other good hitches out there I am sure. I am sure once you get it set up and broken in I think it will work for you.
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Old 02-12-2019, 03:26 PM   #3
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While your trailer is fairly light and not that long it will still cause some tail wagging the dog. With that being said a good Weight distribution hitch with sway control is not only recommended but needed for your setup. I use a Equalizer 4pt hitch and have nothing but good things to say about it. I have used it on my F-150 with my passport 2510RB and with my 2015 Nissan Armada (similar to your Toyota) pulling my 2510RB. Good luck with your selection.
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Old 02-12-2019, 03:48 PM   #4
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I guess I will have to "pile on" and suggest that the Equalizer 4 point would be a good selection for you. I'm sure there are others out there that will work but I've used the Equalizer with 3 trucks/trailer and it works very well. Don't let anyone convince you that you don't need a good WHD/sway control because you're pulling a small trailer; remember you're pulling with an SUV.
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Old 02-12-2019, 05:46 PM   #5
Dblhack
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I have the same trailer and a F150 V8. I got the Equalizer E2. Not as robust (or expensive) as the 4 point, but so far I am happy with it. At under 3500# dry I didn't feel like I would need the 4 point system.
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Old 02-12-2019, 06:09 PM   #6
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I have the same trailer, pull it with a 2011 Silverado extended cab 2wd 5.3L using a class 4 hitch with a Kurt Friction sway bar.. no problems what so ever...jmo

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Old 02-12-2019, 06:21 PM   #7
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Thanks

Thanks for all the input, looks like the EQ37140ET is my answer. Any other tips for a new guy would be appreciated.
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Old 02-13-2019, 07:13 AM   #8
Carrottop
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Make sure you buy a good set of trailer tow mirrors to attach to the Toyota's. I am sure you already thought of this but a reminder never hurts.
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Old 02-13-2019, 07:25 AM   #9
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Why the 14K? I believe the EQ37140ET number the OP posted is the 14/1.4K hitch. Way overkill for his setup, right?
Just don't want someone to hit the purchase button on a hitch bigger than needed.
Good luck
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Old 02-13-2019, 08:18 AM   #10
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I did not even notice that. I agree way overkill, for that trailer the 10k/1k hitch would be more than enough.
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Old 02-13-2019, 09:26 AM   #11
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14k will be too much. OP do some research on configuring the Equalizer. I believe there is a break point somewhere in their setups where the shank is upgraded to a 14k shank (not bars) regardless of the weight of the bars. Look for that break point and get the 14k shank in the event you want to get a larger trailer in the future. You can get the bars at whatever weight you want but don't take a 10k shank (I think that is the next level down if I recall). I can't remember exactly but I think the break point is 10k for the shank. If so, and 1k bars you should be good to go.
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Old 02-13-2019, 12:59 PM   #12
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I would try to find someone who specializes in hitches. Reading through the forums here, it seems like some RV dealers have been less than brilliant at selecting and setting up WD hitches. Also, a specialist business is likely to have a wider selection of brands and models.
In our case, we got our rig set up by a business not far from our trailer dealer. This business specializes, as I mentioned, and advised us based on what I wanted from the rig. I wanted something quick and easy to hook up, but which would give a solid secure towing experience. The dealer advised a Husky Centerline hitch for us. It was expensive and as described by the dealer, the Husky took all the good bits of the Equalizer and improved it. Our experience with the Husky has well and truly proven the claims made by the dealer.
The Husky hitch incorporates WD as well as anti-sway with only two bars to connect up.
HTH
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Old 02-13-2019, 01:45 PM   #13
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I use the Equalizer 4pt sway control and I recommend it. Also, if you don’t have them already, you may want to consider light truck tires for your tow vehicle instead of passenger tires. Light truck tires usually say LT before the tire size on the sidewall.
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Old 02-13-2019, 06:49 PM   #14
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Thanks, I haven't hit the buy button yet. Picking up the camper in a couple weeks and will wait and see what they throw in the deal.
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Old 02-21-2019, 08:36 AM   #15
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I had the E2 hitch, worked great on our 20' Creekside. I found it was noisy and creaky though. Have since switched to an Andersen No Bounce No sway. It works as good as the E2 for sway control, weighs in at a total of 54 lbs. Easy set up as well. It is capable up to 14,000 Lb trailer so you can take it with you if you upgrade.


We tow a 2014 Cougar 212 RBWE with our Grand Cherokee. Have put about 7000 miles and only one issue for a bushing replacement. Andersen sent it no charge as they have a life time warranty.
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Old 02-21-2019, 09:04 AM   #16
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I have the Tundra with the same 400hp 5.7l engine. I use the EAZ LIFT 48053 plus two sway bars. I don't need 2, but I had them leftover from my pos Lincoln Navigator so as long as I had them I used them. Once setup correctly, I used the equalizer directions, don't notice the trailer back there. It is a very easy diy project. IMHO, before starting get some Class 5 or better bolts for screwing it to the trailer frame.
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Old 02-21-2019, 10:39 AM   #17
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I bought these after some research on YouTube, etc. They are supposed to minimize the E2 noise issue. I haven't tried them yet, but hoping for the best.

Equal-i-zer 95015150 Sway Bracket Jacket - 1pair
by Amazon.com
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HRJNIE..._saVBCb8Y76K0F
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Old 02-21-2019, 10:46 AM   #18
sourdough
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dblhack View Post
I bought these after some research on YouTube, etc. They are supposed to minimize the E2 noise issue. I haven't tried them yet, but hoping for the best.

Equal-i-zer 95015150 Sway Bracket Jacket - 1pair
by Amazon.com
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HRJNIE..._saVBCb8Y76K0F

I use them on my 4 point. I don't know if they eliminate a lot of noise, but they do eliminate the need for putting anything on the L brackets to minimize the noise. I found most of the noise on mine came from the head and lubing the ball and friction points at the swivel points as instructed in the manual eliminated virtually all of the noise from the hitch....which was bad at one time.
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Old 02-23-2019, 11:42 AM   #19
jerrymp
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I will suggest that you go with the ProPride hitch. Its expensive, costing almost $3k. I was able to get a used one for $1k but drove 5 hours one way to get it. It is the ultimate anti-sway hitch. My neck is worth considerably more than $3K so I consider it money well spent. There are shops out that that will install it for you. The manufacturer can help with that. But if you install it yourself you will gain valuable insights into the mechanics of towing. Look it up on youtube and such. Towing is the least fun part of the rving experience for me and anything that reduces the mental tension is worth the bucks. The easiest towing experience is a dually with a fifth wheel. Been there done that. The ProPride is as close to that fifth wheel experience as you will get with a bumper pull. Just my $.02. Good luck
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Old 02-23-2019, 02:13 PM   #20
Gegrad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbells View Post
I have the Tundra with the same 400hp 5.7l engine. I use the EAZ LIFT 48053 plus two sway bars. I don't need 2, but I had them leftover from my pos Lincoln Navigator so as long as I had them I used them. Once setup correctly, I used the equalizer directions, don't notice the trailer back there. It is a very easy diy project. IMHO, before starting get some Class 5 or better bolts for screwing it to the trailer frame.
Just to clarify, the OP has a 2005 sequoia. Only engine in that was was the 4.7L rated at 282 HP. The new 5.7L Tundras have 381 hp, so your Tundra has 100 more HP than OPs truck.
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