Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Keystone RV Forums > Keystone Tech Forums > Repairs & Maintenance
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 02-02-2019, 08:44 AM   #1
brianshellhart
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Oswego
Posts: 68
Refrigerator not cooling

I have a Dometic DM2652 refrigerator that has stopped cooling. Doesn't work on propane or shore power. I have took off the outside cover and got into the control board were the fuses are located. All fuses look to still be good. Any suggestions??
brianshellhart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2019, 10:28 AM   #2
Logan X
Senior Member
 
Logan X's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,286
This happened to me a couple of months ago. I don’t know if it is the same problem you are having, I hope it helps.

The power to the fridge stopped. There were no lights on the control panel or inside the fridge. I checked all of the fuses including on the control module, they were all good. There was both 110v and 12v power at the base of the fridge on the outside panel.

I figured it was a bad control module, so I replaced it. Nothing changed.

I figured it had to be a 12v power problem so I started tracing the 12v power from where it fed the fridge. I traced the hot wire to what I discovered was a high limit thermostat reset button. The reset button is on the flu above the gas burner. I pressed the button, 12v power was restored, and the fridge is operating normally.

Now I guess I have a spare control module, haha.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	74125FD9-7C65-4326-9ACA-5C76BACD4B7A.jpg
Views:	976
Size:	243.1 KB
ID:	20129   Click image for larger version

Name:	1C3C8763-2ADD-41A5-90BC-918EC4AD191A.jpg
Views:	266
Size:	196.2 KB
ID:	20130   Click image for larger version

Name:	F8AFDEBA-1140-4028-8F9E-258196683F11.jpg
Views:	371
Size:	202.0 KB
ID:	20131  
__________________
Mike
2017 F250 6.7 Powerstroke FX4 crew cab
2016 Hideout 24BHSWE (27 foot TT)
Logan X is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2019, 10:49 AM   #3
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,772
Quote:
Originally Posted by brianshellhart View Post
I have a Dometic DM2652 refrigerator that has stopped cooling. Doesn't work on propane or shore power. I have took off the outside cover and got into the control board were the fuses are located. All fuses look to still be good. Any suggestions??
First, Where are you currently located? If you're in Illinois, with the current cold temperatures, many folks will have problems with absorption refrigerators. The heating elements (both gas and electric) are just not hot enough to "boil the refrigerant" and keep the absorption system functioning. So, if that's the case, you might try warming up the outside back of the refrigerator.

On the other hand, if you're in some place warmer for the winter and having issues, then I'd first ask, "Have you smelled anything similar to ammonia when you open the refrigerator door?"
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2019, 05:14 PM   #4
brianshellhart
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Oswego
Posts: 68
I have power. Lights in the fridge are on control lights on outside of fridge (e.g. auto/ check light) are on. No smell of ammonia ir anything of that nature are present. I also thought maybe due to the extreme temperatures but today was in the 40's and still nothing. My unit was out of level witch I read could be the cause. But I recently had issues with my landing gear and had to replace the landing gear now I am sitting level in every direction and still no cooling on the unit.
brianshellhart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2019, 05:49 PM   #5
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,772
If it's the original 2009 refrigerator, and if you operated it "greater than about 3 degrees out of level" you may have a blockage in the cooling system return lines. Once the sulfur solidifies, it can block the passages and render the cooling unit inoperable.

With a 10 year old refrigerator, you may be facing more than just a "control board issue". That's why I asked if you've noticed an "ammonia smell" in the freezer or when you open the refrigerator door. You may need to replace the cooling unit.

Then again, it may be something as simple as a fuse, a thermocouple or a dirty flue baffle. With a 10 year old refrigerator, it's hard to tell what might be the cause.
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2019, 05:52 PM   #6
brianshellhart
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Oswego
Posts: 68
There is no smell so would that indicate the cooling unit could still be good just that it could be needing a thaw??
brianshellhart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2019, 06:35 PM   #7
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,772
It's possible that after it warms up a bit it may start working again. You could hang a trouble light behind the refrigerator to help warm up the outside. That sometimes helps. I'm reluctant to suggest spending a lot of money on a control board with the knowledge that it's going into a 10 year old refrigerator that stopped working after sitting off level in extremely cold weather.

Some people suggest turning the refrigerator upside down for 24 hours, then reinstalling. Sometimes it will help for a few days to a few months, sometimes it doesn't do anything but reveal to you how easy it is to remove the refrigerator. I've never had any consistent improvement by doing this, but some people swear it helps a failing unit.

Cooling units are around $450-600, depending on where you buy them. Do your research, there are a couple of "shyster outfits" that don't have a good reputation.
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2019, 06:45 PM   #8
brianshellhart
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Oswego
Posts: 68
Thanks for the imput I will be sure to due my research if it comes down to needing a new cooling unit. The refrigerator would have to come out if the cooling unit needed to be replace right? Probaly be better to take it to a RV service center? Not a hvac/a.c. tech nor do I know the first thing about them.
brianshellhart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2019, 06:59 PM   #9
chuckster57
Site Team
 
chuckster57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,203
We often see “yellow death” it’s the color of the powder if the cooling unit leaks. Simple checks:

Turn on the refer, set to LP and with the access cover off simply listen for clicking from the igniter and look for a flame.

Then set to AUTO. Wait 10 minutes and then feel the “chimney” for any heat. BE CAREFUL as it might be too hot to touch.

If both “heating” sources are working, then the problem is probably either too cold ambient temp or cooling unit is clogged. Some suggest putting a 60W incandescent light in the compartment to keep things “warm”. Let us know what you find.
__________________

2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
chuckster57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2019, 07:01 PM   #10
chuckster57
Site Team
 
chuckster57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,203
Quote:
Originally Posted by brianshellhart View Post
Thanks for the imput I will be sure to due my research if it comes down to needing a new cooling unit. The refrigerator would have to come out if the cooling unit needed to be replace right? Probaly be better to take it to a RV service center? Not a hvac/a.c. tech nor do I know the first thing about them.


Not really. You just need some basic skills and yes it needs to come out to do the job. I’ve done plenty so I’m sure I can talk/write you through it.
__________________

2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
chuckster57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2019, 07:10 PM   #11
brianshellhart
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Oswego
Posts: 68
Yeah Chuckster I did unplug the unit form its outlit in the back in about 1 min or so I heard a click and behind a guard I seen the bright blue flame so I know that it flips to propane like it should Like JR stated I hope I didn't but might have ruined the cooling unit with warmer weather on it's way I'm hoping it will thaw. But if I do need to replace it I for sure would like it if you could talk it thru with me
brianshellhart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2019, 07:13 PM   #12
chuckster57
Site Team
 
chuckster57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,203
You got it.
__________________

2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
chuckster57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2019, 08:55 AM   #13
brianshellhart
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Oswego
Posts: 68
Ok so no "Yellow death" no smell of ammonia all fuses are good. So I believe it is a clog. Will the cooling unit unclog or not. "Chimney" gets hot and the controls switch does what it should. And should the unit be off for the clog to clear?
brianshellhart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2019, 09:05 AM   #14
chuckster57
Site Team
 
chuckster57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,203
There has been reports of success with removing refer and turning upside down for a while. Others have reported success with a rubber mallet tapping on the coils. Should be OFF for either.
__________________

2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
chuckster57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2019, 09:10 AM   #15
brianshellhart
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Oswego
Posts: 68
Im outside of the unit now had the fridge off all night turned it on this mourning and it sounds like there is something going thru the coils weather it be gas or liquid don't believe it was making any sounds yesterday or last night. I just don't want to be doing the wrong thing and have a fire start or anything like that
brianshellhart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2019, 09:20 AM   #16
chuckster57
Site Team
 
chuckster57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,203
You won't start any fires unless the LP flame "gets away" from you.
__________________

2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
chuckster57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2019, 09:47 AM   #17
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,772
Here is an excellent article on absorption refrigerators, problems and fixes:
http://www.rvdoctor.com/2001/02/rv-a...n-cooling.html While you probably won't find a "100% sure fix" the article will help you understand how your system works and give you some ideas on things you can try to either fix or diagnose the problem you're facing.

As chuckster said, using a small (4 or 6 ounce) ball peen hammer and "GENTLY tapping" (not hammering) along the absorption system in the back of the refrigerator "MAY" help break up a clog, standing it upside down for a day may loosen a clog, cleaning the chimney may help improve heating the coolant mixture, all of which "MAY" help if there's a "temporary clog. If there's a leak, or a permanent clog, not much is going to get it cooling again. Remember that ammonia is a corrosive substance, the sulfur is added to help protect the metal tubing, if your system has leaked, then the hydrogen is gone. Smelling ammonia or seeing the yellow "sulfur powder" (modern systems use sodium chromate instead of sulfur) are the "signs of problems". But, a blockage in the "bottom, almost level parts" of the absorption coils is often the "permanent failure cause" for a refrigerator that's operated "off level". Once that sulfur solidifies and stops the liquid flow, it's difficult to get it broken up and liquid flowing again. Even if you do, the sulfur won't be "in the mix" and can't protect the metal lines as it could when in powder form, so the "tapping and making it work" is usually short lived because corrosion will eat through the unprotected lines in usually 6-8 months.

In other words, even if you get it working again, start saving your money for a replacement, in all likelihood, you'll be buying one before next winter.

Take a look at the article in my link, it will help explain much of the mystery... Good Luck
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2019, 10:17 AM   #18
brianshellhart
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Oswego
Posts: 68
Thanks for all the helpful tips, links and advise in the matter guys you all have been a huge help and i will start saving the money for a new cooling unit
brianshellhart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2019, 10:40 PM   #19
bobbecky
Senior Member
 
bobbecky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 2,888
Actually, sulfur is no longer used in RV refrigerators for corrosion control, but sodium chromate is the chemical that is used to control the corrosion caused by the ammonia in the system, and that is what makes the yellow powder that shows when there is a leak.
__________________
Bob & Becky
2012 3402 Montana
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC
bobbecky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2019, 07:56 AM   #20
hankaye
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Arrey,
Posts: 2,368
Howdy All;

Read this entire thread and have yet to see if the OP has checked a simple
thing like if the interior temp. sensor has been checked for proper placement.
I know I've bumped mine a few times and lost the cooling.

hank
__________________
Striving for a less complicated life since 1949 ...

Home: 2008 Cougar 278 RKS
T.V.: 2004 F-250 4X4, Level III BulletProofed , Detroit Tru-Track Differential (915A550)
Dog: 2006 Border Collie (Rascal) aka Maximum fur dispersal unit. (08/04/2006 - 12/16/2017) RIP.
hankaye is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Keystone RV Company or any of its affiliates in any way. Keystone RV® is a registered trademark of the Keystone RV Company.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:32 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.