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Old 02-01-2019, 08:10 PM   #21
JRTJH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy888 View Post
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I hope some one will come up with the green LED sequence meanings. I am finished for the night , baby sitting , and will do the thermostat swap first thing in the morning .. Thanks to all who are helping .

Jeremy
The green flashing LED is the "charge wizard indicator" and there is a small button next to it. Pushing the button will force the converter/charger into the boost phase.

As for the indicator:

Solid Green: Boost Phase (14.4 VDC)
rapid flash: Normal Phase (13.6 VDC)
slow flash: Sustain Phase (13.2 VDC)

So when you look at it and it's flashing once every 4 or 5 seconds, it means the converter/charger is providing 13.2 VDC to the system and your battery is fully charged. When it's flashing rapidly, it is providing 13.6 VDC and your battery is "partially discharged and being recharged" When it's solid green, your battery is significantly discharged and being "rapid recharged".

The above is "simple explanation" and there are more complex charging patterns that the system provides, but essentially, if it's on solid green, rapid charge, fast flashing green, normal recharge and slow flashing green, battery is charged and in "sustain mode".
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Old 02-02-2019, 07:56 AM   #22
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Yes JRTJH I agree with you ,However I never pushed the button but the wizard automatically changed modes . Im guessing that the boost mode will come on when operating the slides. I may operate a slide with no 220 and drain the batteries a bit to see the boost mode when I plug it back in . I will start paying attention to this feature now that we have determined what the green LED is . The water heater issue is fixed by taking the reset thermostat rubber gasket off , and exercising the reset switches and apparently this was the problem . It might have been a high temp problem .Thank you JRTJH for suggesting this. At any rate the erratic light switch behavior is still a mystery ,but its working fine now on both modes , so on to the thermostats .swap . Thanks for your input , and your translation of the chart. Im learning a lot on this forum , Thanks to all.Ill be back after thermistat swap.
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Old 02-02-2019, 11:01 AM   #23
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The charge wizard will change modes depending on battery voltage that is sensed frequently. If the converter/charger senses the battery output is changing (above or below the threshold) it will "automatically change charge modes" and as the battery charge level goes up, it will "taper down the charge level" automatically. The "button" is there so you can "force the converter into "fast charge" so you don't waste time if you're trying to charge from a generator while dry camping.... It's a "manual bypass" I suppose would be the most correct way to describe the button.

Typically, the system is a "plug it in and forget it" automatic charging system.
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Old 02-06-2019, 08:42 PM   #24
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Changed out the thermostats today. No difference. I received a new Dinosaur board this evening , Im going to change rhe board before removing the whole unit. I feel its unlikely that wasps have a nest in there since it was covered ,but its possible . The new board has the added protection of a 3 amp fuse ,which will be an upgrade over the OEM control board. The Dinosaur tech told me they are excellent boards compared to the original . So if this doent fix it ill pull the unit and go back to square one.
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Old 02-07-2019, 05:48 PM   #25
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Bedroom Thermostat is for ac only, not designed to work furnace.
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Old 02-07-2019, 07:50 PM   #26
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Thanks snoppy , You are correct that the bedroom thermostat only operates the air con ,but the thermostat is identical to the kitchen thermostat.I switched them to determine if the kitchen thermostat was not working properly . I got the exact same symptoms with both thermostats. They both started the furnace blower but did not ignite the burner. So either they are both good or both bad, Since they both kick the air con and fan on in both positions it is unlikely they are both bad. I will be changing the control board next ,hopefully tomorrow ... Am babysiting my grandaughters away from the trailer til noon tomorrow..
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Old 02-08-2019, 01:56 PM   #27
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Problem Solved !!

Put in new Dinosaur Fan 50 plus pins and the furnace fired up first try. Therefore Chuckster57 had correct diagnosis when he said its either an insect nest on the burner or a bad control board. Since it was covered i thought the likelyhood of wasps was slight. Since It was getting gas the sail switch was ruled out(chuckster57), By changing thermostats with the identical one in the bedroom the thermostat was ruled out (sourdough]. Incidentally Snoopy the furnace is now running on the bedroom thermostat installed in the kitchen ,showing they are indeed identical. Also I discovered the Progressive Ind. converter wizard chart, explaing the 3 modes of the sytem and their light sequences.JRTJH effectively translated the chart into language even knuckleheads like me can understand . JRTJH also pointed me in the right direction for the water heater fix. I want to thank everyone who chipped in to help . JRTJH, Chuckster57 , Sourdough and Snoopy. Another big win for this forum !
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Old 02-08-2019, 07:48 PM   #28
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I am glad it’s fixed, and even happier that you learned. Knowledge is power, and owning/fixing an RV takes a lot of energy
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Old 02-09-2019, 07:38 AM   #29
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Thank you Chuckster57, Yes never too old to learn , Im sure Ill cross paths with you again here on the forum . This RV seems to constantly have issues. One more question . Is it cost effective to try and fugure out what fried on the OEM board , and replace it ? Like the igniter can in this case ? Do you guys ever do that ? I imagine the testing equipment would be expensive stuff.
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Old 02-09-2019, 07:54 AM   #30
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atwood furnace ,no heat

We toss them in the recycle bin.

When I first started here, we had a tester for control boards. It has since quit working and the dealership won’t replace it due to cost. Cheaper to pay tech wages for 1/2 hr.
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Old 02-09-2019, 08:55 AM   #31
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^^^ What he said. Board testers cost upwards of $500, and when you identify the bad board component, you've got to have a lot of equipment to repair the board (without damaging something else on the board). Precision soldering is not the same as "sweating copper pipe"....

For the "average RV owner" the cost of trying to determine the cause of failure and buy the replacements will probably cost more (one time investment in tools and equipment) than the furnace assembly would cost to just pull it out and replace it. Even for "small RV repair shops" investing in the necessary equipment is "cost foolish"...

I'd say, just accept the failure, enjoy the repair and "don't look back".....
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Old 02-18-2019, 03:55 PM   #32
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Ours is verticle but how do you get the acess panel off
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