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Old 02-14-2019, 09:20 AM   #1
Whmartini
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Join Date: Jan 2019
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No 12V to refrigerator

I've got a 2017 Cougar 26RB with no 12V to the refrigerator. Everything checks out in the fuse panel, converter is fine and battery shows full charge. BUT, somewhere between the Fuse/breaker panel and the refrigerator there is an open in the 12V line. it started as intermittent interruption and then finally no voltage at all. Before I remove the "critter cover" sealing the entire underside, is there a separate breaker or reset after the 12V feed leaves the interior fuse panel?
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Old 02-14-2019, 10:18 AM   #2
JRTJH
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I'd suggest taking the lower vent panel off and checking for 12 VDC input to the control board located in the lower left part of the rear of the refrigerator. There's a black plastic cover, remove the screw, pull the cover and the wiring is clearly marked. If there is 12 VDC at the connection on the bottom of the control board, check the two glass fuses mounted on the board. One is for 12 VDC operation, one is for 120VAC operation.
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Old 02-14-2019, 11:08 AM   #3
Whmartini
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There is NO 12VDC getting to the unit. I located the 12VDC line to the refrigerator in the slide out conduit, spliced a hot 12VDC line into it and the refrigerator works fine. However there is NO power making it to the refrig input.
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Old 02-14-2019, 11:20 AM   #4
JRTJH
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Then, it's either the fuse in the fuse panel or wiring under the trailer. You can, based on what I see of your floorplan, run a new wire from the fuse panel, inside the rear cabinet, under the entry door sill, into the fireplace cabinet and up to the refrigerator. That would completely bypass the old wiring, still give you fused protection and get you through until the weather gets better and you have time to pull the underbelly to investigate.

The one caveat, pull the fuse and see if there is anything else that loses power. If your luck is like mine, that same circuit controls the thermostat or some other vital component. I'm guessing that isn't the situation and the refrigerator is the only item on that circuit.
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Old 02-15-2019, 10:50 PM   #5
ajk170
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JRTJH- I realize Whmartini’s is a 2017 but my 2015 316RL had a similar problem and I even repalaced the lower primary circuit board with no luck only to discover there is a thermal fuse on the vent stack that the 12v primary power goes through before hitting the main circuit board. I actually got the replacemt fuse for free from Dick Gores Rv (Good people over there) in Richmond, Ga (right outside Fort Stewart) because they said it was a recall fix from Dometic and the techs would always take that one part from the kit. It looks like a resistor that may or may not have a tiny button to push - the whole thing is about the size of a quarter and if there is a button and you can’t push it, replace it. If there is not button, replace it too. It sat about 3-6 inches up from where the burner assembly is on the fridge.
I think I also found it on amazon or somewhere for $20 bucks - glad it didn’t have to buy it! I replaced it (with the old circuit board) and it all worked fine! Took me a weekend to diagnose and research - this was before I know about this forum. I saw a similar post recently about the exact problem tha I’m talking about- May not be Whmartini’s problem, but his symptoms sound very similar.

Here is what I replaced on mine - thermal fuse:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Dometic-3...Fuse/107429729http://https://www.walmart.com/ip/Dometic-3850306063-Thermal-Fuse/107429729?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1636&a did=22222222228062421042&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=& wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=169612349673&wl4=aud-481962823846la-277580521355&wl5=9028703&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl 10=125198454&wl11=online&wl12=107429729&wl13=&veh= sem&gclid=CjwKCAiA45njBRBwEiwASnZT5xoRaiA4ZoQXKUjR qOG6fnbo594qRMhZZjn3edaTxpkfAw3tSGvrHRoCF0IQAvD_Bw E
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