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Old 02-04-2019, 09:42 AM   #21
JRTJH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbecky View Post
Actually, sulfur is no longer used in RV refrigerators for corrosion control, but sodium chromate is the chemical that is used to control the corrosion caused by the ammonia in the system, and that is what makes the yellow powder that shows when there is a leak.
Yup, that's why my post included this: "...Smelling ammonia or seeing the yellow "sulfur powder" (modern systems use sodium chromate instead of sulfur)..."
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Old 02-10-2019, 08:14 AM   #22
Tatanka Ob Waci
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We had an issue similar to yours. Found out there is a magnetic switch in the control module. Repair guy came out, put a magnet up to it and reset it. That was a $45.00 lesson. You can google it and see how to do this.
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Old 02-10-2019, 08:24 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Tatanka Ob Waci View Post
We had an issue similar to yours. Found out there is a magnetic switch in the control module. Repair guy came out, put a magnet up to it and reset it. That was a $45.00 lesson. You can google it and see how to do this.
That is for the Norcold models that have the retrofit limit switch on the cooling tubes. OP has a Dometic and it doesnt have that device. But your right fo rhte norcold refers, we have done that numerous times.
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Old 02-10-2019, 10:03 AM   #24
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Arrow Fat man

Just to cover what happened to me in Wisconsin last Spring. I had no power to anything at the refrigerator. The power button happened to flash the indicator light enough for me to see it. I started jumping up and down on the button and wiggling it as I pressed it. It came on to "Auto" and it ran just fine then. Might be a more involved problem beyond the switch but they say... if you want to know the easy way to fix something,.... ask the fat man.
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Old 02-11-2019, 06:39 AM   #25
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Hot shot it. Hook 110 volts directly to electric element. If it cools its controls, if it does not its cooling unit
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Old 02-11-2019, 07:00 AM   #26
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Hot shot it. Hook 110 volts directly to electric element. If it cools its controls, if it does not its cooling unit
If the heating element is no good, your method will having someone spend money for something not needed. You would need to OHM out the element first to verify its operational.
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Old 02-12-2019, 06:42 AM   #27
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I keep forgetting that not everyone is a rv tech. I need to explain myself better. In our rv shop we hot shot, check amp draw and wait overnight.
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Old 02-14-2019, 10:57 AM   #28
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Just in case anyone is interested, I have been having trouble with my Montana (The Money Pit) residential refrigerator getting cold enough in the lower part of the refrigerator. I tried to get it fix numerous time by a Keystone authorized company. I finally took it to an independent repair shop, and the technician found that the insulation was missing on the refrigerator and the baffle was missing. After getting this repaired (on my dime) the refrig finally reaches the temperature without setting the refrig on the maximum cooling temperature.
I want to let everyone know that the obvious may not be your problem. Happy trails.
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