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Old 02-12-2019, 10:23 AM   #1
Jgraham14813
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What exactly is this

So what exactly is this I looked it up and it says relay pack. If this was going bad could this cause my issue with slide motor not seeming to have much power. As I said new battery reading over 13.2 volts and even hooked jumper cables up to my truck which was then reading 14.62 volts still no change when pressing the button to slide in or out. All the connections were tight all the way to the motor and the brushes looked new in the motor
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Old 02-12-2019, 11:04 AM   #2
JRTJH
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That is the slide relay control box. It's an integral part of the slide electrical system and may be causing your problem. On the other hand, it may NOT be the cause of the slide not moving freely or easily. Here is the owner's manual/service manual for the slide system. There is an excellent troubleshooting chart starting on page 17.

https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/...g_82_S0503.pdf

If I remember correctly, the 13819 is a NON waterproof replacement for the previous waterproof relay box. If so, then it does not offer as much protection as what used to be there.
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Old 02-12-2019, 11:49 AM   #3
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The slide moves freely no binging at all just no power and once I get it created over the hump by hand just moves really slow and seems like no power to the motor even though I’m connected to shore power and a new battery I have bypassed the thermal fuse in the front near the battery for now till I get this issue fixed
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Old 02-12-2019, 12:03 PM   #4
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The voltage you're reading on the trailer battery is actually the voltage from the charger, not the battery.

Even a new battery could be bad. One should not assume that because it is new, it cannot be contributing to the problem.

When you run a large load (like a slide motor) it's going to need to draw current from the battery - if the battery is not up to the challenge, it may not work well.

I would measure the voltage at the motor when you are operating the slide and see if it is still 12 point something.
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Old 02-12-2019, 12:22 PM   #5
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I purchased this new battery and also removed the battery from my truck and tried that one same result. Is there a way to bypass the controller for now to see if that is my issue
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Old 02-12-2019, 12:37 PM   #6
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i Forgot I actually unhooked the battery to check it and after being off the camper power for over 3 hours the voltage was fluctuating between 12.8 and 13
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Old 02-12-2019, 01:13 PM   #7
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There is also a slight electric smell coming from that control box
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Old 02-12-2019, 01:53 PM   #8
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If the control box is bad, I don't know where you're going to find one. When LCI bought the manufacturer they changed the way the electrical controls work and stopped producing that relay box. I have no doubt there are some stashed away on a shelf in some out of the way RV parts store, but all the major outlets, CW, etrailer.com, PPL, etc are probably going to be "out of stock/no longer available".... Good Luck finding one.
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Old 02-12-2019, 07:10 PM   #9
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This store in Stark, FL has been a primary supplier for Keystone trailers for more than 20 years. We never miss a chance to visit the store when in the area. There are things in stock there that even the factory has run-out of.

https://auto-accessory-stores.cmac.w...essories/7717/
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Old 02-13-2019, 05:11 AM   #10
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Well would it be possible just to build my own relay box I found a diagram of how a guy did one himself, but before I go that route can I just bypass that box to see if it is that or not
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Old 02-13-2019, 07:20 AM   #11
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so i just went out to try it again this morning slid it out then back in and went out and touched the control box it was getting warm but the m2 and b+ studs were hot where i couldnt touch them for over 2 seconds. and the wires on them or tightened down however the studs themselves are loose and cant tighten them.
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Old 02-13-2019, 08:06 AM   #12
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It's entirely possible to build your own relay box. People do it all the time for fog lights or auxiliary lighting for trucks and ATV's. The only significant difference is that your relay box, unlike one for lights or horns, will need to be a "reversing polarity box" so you can provide power to extend the slide and also "reverse the power" to retract the slide. Not difficult, but not as simple as buying an off the shelf relay and hooking it up to the existing slide switch mounted on your interior wall.

You might want to take the two wires from the slide motor (probably B+/B-) connect them to a battery and see if the slide motor works without dragging. If so, it's probably the relay box. If it still drags, then no only is the box bad (loose and hot contacts) but the motor is also not producing full power.
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Old 02-14-2019, 04:40 AM   #13
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You might want to look at this as a possible alternate.. but I don’t know if the relays are heavy enough....

https://www.gamainc.com/product/rf12v1pr-asl/

And yes it would not be that hard to build your own relay box...if you did I’d go with an Omron SS relay rated at the current your motor would require..

Also Id want to do a bit more troubleshooting and find out why the studs on the relay are getting hot during motor actuation...

I’d be looking at the motor , wire from relay to motor, and evidence of any corrosion build up on any wire connection to and from ...

Something is drawing a lot of current....
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Old 02-14-2019, 06:12 AM   #14
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How could the relay box be bad and still be working a little just wondering cause I opened it up and something was burnt (electrical fire smell.) I put the wires straight from the motor to the battery and from being outside it looked a lot faster and went in and out No issues
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Old 02-14-2019, 06:25 AM   #15
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Relays are funny. On paper they look like a switch which can be either 100% on or 100% off. In reality, they are made up of spring arms with contact heads on the end which make contact with the fixed contact ends. If these are not making a good connection (due to any number of reasons) then they will present a higher than normal resistance. This will cause higher than normal current though the circuit which will cause more heat, etc.

You may not have to replace the whole box of relays. I'm not familiar with that unit, but it probably has standard relays inside it. Perhaps they can be replaced individually? Someone more familiar with that unit may be able to give a better answer.
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Old 02-14-2019, 10:12 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jgraham14813 View Post
How could the relay box be bad and still be working a little ...
You're probably too young to remember the old "mechanical points" in automobile ignition systems. There were two "contact points" that opened/closed to allow voltage to the coil to produce enough "spark" to fire the spark plugs. Those contact points, every time they open/close create an arc that deposits a bit of carbon on the surface. Given enough "opening/closing" events, the carbon acted as an insulator, preventing electrical current from passing through the points and to the coil.

Essentially the same happens in every relay. The contact points arc and create a spark. Over time, with moisture (non weatherproof relay box) and high amperage demand, the "contact points" will develop carbon deposits and corrosion. Once that happens, the amperage demand increases and heat develops leading to increased carbon deposits and more amperage. As the cycle continues, the relay box reaches a point where the terminals get hot, the amperage decreases and the motor at the "end of the line" doesn't get enough power......
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Old 02-21-2019, 03:49 PM   #17
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https://smile.amazon.com/Intermitten...omotive&sr=1-1
You can find this item at above ebay . I choose this because it had a wiring diagram. Also available on Amazon catagory automotive parts B004VAGKZE and possibly your local auto parts store. This solenoid is also used on winch motors.

Your control box has same (4) heavy gauge wire terminals, (2) +/- to battery and (2) switched wires +/- to the motor. I see (3) small gauge wires on bottom of your control box that would go to a double throw momentary Toggle or Rocker switch. In or Out on switch just has solenoid reverse polarity to the large wires going to motor so it runs CW or CCW to bring slide in or out. On diagram is included you see a red - yellow - white wires so just like this diagram your switch should have a hot (+) wire and the other two only would make a difference by what you have marked on switch in or out and could be reversed to change it.

I hope I explained how this should relate to what you have. Since you say you wired motor to your battery you should get the idea OK. Just reverse your +/- battery terminals and it should run opposite direction. The Relay diagram you provided was doing this same thing but you may not have heavy enough relays as shown since most of those only control fog lights and other accessories. The winch solenoids are rated in 100 amp and up so be no problem. The amazon unit says 150 amps surge.

Hope this helps you or someone else trying to do the same.
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