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Old 02-12-2019, 11:04 AM   #1
daveinaz
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Removing oxidation

Our new to us 2008 Monty has sat in the Arizona sun its entire life. That said, the finish is toast on it. Most all of the decals have already been removed. I know it's a little controversial, but seeing as how I don't want to spend thousands restoring the finish on a rig this old, I'm leaning toward doing the Zep floor finish method.

I've watched a number of video on this process and had a couple questions for any of you who have done this procedure as well. Some owners apply the wax with a microfiber cloth and ladder whereas others have used a sponge mop on an extension without the need for a ladder. Some for getting rid of the oxidation. I've seen some use hand-held scrub pads with a ladder and others used what looks like a floor scrubber on a pole. While it would be more a pain (and leg workout) using a cloth and going up/down the ladder all day, it does seem like it would be a more controlled application that using the sponge on an extension method.

Then there's the BKF vs softscrub and TSP vs Dawn dish soap discussion.

I'm debating whether to tackle the oxidation removal myself or get someone to do it. I'd like them to just clean/remove the oxidation, not wax/polish it because I have a new set of factory decals. My plan would be to remove the oxidation/clean the rig, apply the new decals, and then wax/polish it.

From what I've read, the BKT & mild scrub pad to remove oxidation isn't recommended if you have any type of finish left on your rig, but since ours doesn't I'm leaning toward trying it since it sort of in the category of I don't have anything to lose by trying it.

I know the hardest part is going to be getting rid of the oxidation so I'm leaning toward getting someone to do that and then tackling the rest myself.
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Old 02-12-2019, 11:20 AM   #2
JRTJH
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The "problem" with ZEP finishes on an RV is the temporary nature, buildup and future applications. Essentially, ZEP Poly Glow is similar to the old "Johnson Wax Mop and Glo" for kitchen floors.

If you decide to use that product, it likely will only last a year or so, maybe even less in a "high sunlight" area. It will probably look good just after application, but in a year, it too will have oxidized somewhat and will need touchup. After a couple of years of touching up the bad areas, the thickness of the product will start to be apparent. Then it's "strip it all off and start over....

As your DW how much fun she used to have stripping the tile floors in the kitchen when she used Mop and Glo on them....

While I don't have any "magic elixir" to suggest, I'd urge you to look at all the "pro's and con's" about the ZEP system before you think about it as a long term solution.
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Old 02-12-2019, 11:33 AM   #3
sourdough
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Dave, this is "out" there because I've never done it, but..... Why couldn't you remove/strip the oxidation then spray it with some sort of lacquer vs the temporary Poly Glow? Don't know the answer but seems it would'nt be much more work but yield a substantially longer lasting finish - then add the decals.
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Old 02-12-2019, 01:48 PM   #4
daveinaz
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
The "problem" with ZEP finishes on an RV is the temporary nature, buildup and future applications. Essentially, ZEP Poly Glow is similar to the old "Johnson Wax Mop and Glo" for kitchen floors.

If you decide to use that product, it likely will only last a year or so, maybe even less in a "high sunlight" area. It will probably look good just after application, but in a year, it too will have oxidized somewhat and will need touchup. After a couple of years of touching up the bad areas, the thickness of the product will start to be apparent. Then it's "strip it all off and start over....

As your DW how much fun she used to have stripping the tile floors in the kitchen when she used Mop and Glo on them....

While I don't have any "magic elixir" to suggest, I'd urge you to look at all the "pro's and con's" about the ZEP system before you think about it as a long term solution.
First, I got a laugh your comment about my DW stripping tile floors... Not in this lifetime! Ain't happening! LOL.

But yes, it seems that any type of wax/polish, whether made for RV/Marine, floors, or other surfaces is a temporary solution that will need to be reapplied. I think the difference is that wax made for RV/marine applications doesn't build up whereas the Zep or other such stuff builds up with each application and eventually has to be stripped as you say.
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Old 02-12-2019, 01:50 PM   #5
daveinaz
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Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
Dave, this is "out" there because I've never done it, but..... Why couldn't you remove/strip the oxidation then spray it with some sort of lacquer vs the temporary Poly Glow? Don't know the answer but seems it would'nt be much more work but yield a substantially longer lasting finish - then add the decals.
Good question. I don't know if the gel coat would have to be totally removed in order to spray lacquer or clear coat on it or if you could apply it on top of the gel coat.

Maybe the answer is to have someone remove the oxidation and clean it. Then apply the decals myself. Then take it back to them to buff it out with RV/marine wax/polish.
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Old 02-12-2019, 02:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
Dave, this is "out" there because I've never done it, but..... Why couldn't you remove/strip the oxidation then spray it with some sort of lacquer vs the temporary Poly Glow? Don't know the answer but seems it would'nt be much more work but yield a substantially longer lasting finish - then add the decals.
Bwhhahaha... and I was going to suggest Flex Seal
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Old 02-12-2019, 03:43 PM   #7
sourdough
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Good question. I don't know if the gel coat would have to be totally removed in order to spray lacquer or clear coat on it or if you could apply it on top of the gel coat.

Maybe the answer is to have someone remove the oxidation and clean it. Then apply the decals myself. Then take it back to them to buff it out with RV/marine wax/polish.

The reason I asked is that the 2nd season I had mine the service manager said I had "slight oxidation" on the front cap of mine. I later learned that it was the pigmentation in the paint of the gelcoat if I remember correctly. They prepared it, painted it with I believe he said some sort of PPG automotive paint then clearcoated it - twice. It looks like new today (other than the bugs on it currently) and doesn't show one bit of a tendency to fade. I wouldn't think you would have to go that extreme to make it look nice.
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Old 02-12-2019, 05:05 PM   #8
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This product may work better than floor wax.
http://www.newglass2.com/
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Old 02-13-2019, 06:12 AM   #9
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Why not try a clay bar and waxing compound on that first...try a small section and see how it comes out..
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Old 09-30-2020, 04:41 AM   #10
johnnybadger
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From my experience with over 30 years of maintaining boats (gelcoat, engines, canvas, navigation systems), I learned one big thing - hire a professional. Don’t know about down by you, but up here you can easily find someone to do all of this for you. Maybe bring in the pro to reclaim your fiberglass now, and then try doing an annual waxing/polishing in years two & three on your own?
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Old 09-30-2020, 05:09 AM   #11
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^^^^ x 2 Exactly what Johnny says

The best thing you could do is hire a professional to do it for you. Research the companies in your area that do this type of work and ask questions. Learn how to use google reviews if you don't often use them. You want to see before and after photo galleries.

Taking a crash course on Chemical guys videos will be a minor apprenticeship. Trial and error. Possibly a torn rotator cuff which is not fun btw.
Good luck
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Old 09-30-2020, 06:39 AM   #12
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I bought gallon of poly glow pink stuff from CW it sounds good reading . My camper is in a pole barn I put that pink stuff on and won’t come off will in time it’s coming off it caked on like alligator pattern and Collected dirt .
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